spudulike

Probably Stihl Hexagonal screws, just get the correct driver and turn the H screw out 1/4 turn and try that for starters. It often brings the engine to life. I am taking it the unit is faltering flat out and the idle is OK?

Scrub that, wrong part number, you need - 503 59 16-01!

Worth a phone call.... Stop - Genuine Husqvarna Part - 503 99 16-01 | L&S Engineers WWW.LSENGINEERS.CO.UK Stop. Genuine Husqvarna Part. OEM No. 503 99 16-01 Other than that, possibly make one from a round clamp.

They are for trainers when you are wearing shorts......sartorial nightmare!!! It is easy, sandals at home or the beach (no socks), Boat/Deck shoes when out and about - no socks or short ones if you really must!

The best way is to get all that dirt away from the cylinder base with a paint brush, white spirit and a compressor. Remove the muffler and carb, pop the jug off and then seal the manifold on correctly. The IPL shows some sort of square jubilee clip, yours may have some sort of bodged home made affair. A clip like this, if you can get it still will be a couple of quid only. If you are getting a bit of leakage, you could try liquid gasket. The air leak won't stop the machine running unless it is very excessive where it kills primary compression and vacuum in the crankcase.

Stylish eh

Sliders eh...can't say I like them, bit ladish for my liking!! And socks......that is a faux pas! Not even if they have a St George cross on them!!

The carb should have an adjustable H and L screw. I have just looked at the KM91 IPL on the L&S website and it has the three normal screws. The symptoms you have would appear to be lack of fuel. in this instance, if the diaphragms and carb gauze strainer are OK, I would check the fuel line, change the fuel filter and if the same, rev it up, turn the H screw anticlockwise until the engine is stifled and then turn it in again until it nearly cleans up but doesn't scream. Put some pics up, the adjustment screws will probably be tamper proof hex type.

Glad you haven't changed Matt

Firstly pop off he top cover, take the spark plug out, push it back in to the cap, earth it on the cylinder away from the hole (it can ignite fuel vapour), make sure the stop switch is on and pull the saw over hard and see if the plug sparks. If it does, you can try an old plug with the end electrode bent out and away from the central one and see if that sparks. If it does, it is probably OK. If you get no spark, about all you can do is check for some continuity between the coils if you have the two part coil fitted and measure the continuity from the HT cap to earth, you should get some sort of reading if the HT line is OK. There is no real way to test a coil with a multimeter, all you can do is make sure the wires give some sort of reading to earth meaning they are making contact. If you have no spark, also try using printer paper to regap the coil to flywheel, just make sure it isn't clouting the coil as it spins. Often magnets can lose their magnetism and this can rejuvinate the spark. Non spark could also be a dodgy spark plug!

I saw some of the English football team sporting white socks and mule flip flops and noticed the youth today are more commonly wearing their sandals with socks. I call it depraved and my wife gave me a look like I had run over a puppy when I stuck my sandals on briefly with socks before slipping on shoes when going out. It is a strange phenomena!

Bugger, you could have swung by if much closer

Then you must be a time traveler as I haven't had a front lawn for 15+ years. Can you tell me the lottery numbers for next weekend?

Just think of it as a project when the days are short and it is pissing down with rain. Your cylinder, if scored is shot, your best bet is a Hyway kit or an old good OEM cylinder and perhaps a new piston. Where are you in the country, I throw 026 bits at people to make them go away

You should be able to get an OEM crank easy enough, I have a few scrappers I need to get rid of in the workshop! The cylinder doesn't sound so good, they came in a number of diameters so need to ensure you get the right one for the saw. Not sure what I have in my collection.

You can't say that in todays society old boy!!

Those Abu reels are works of art, angle the brake blocks, release the clutch, use Rocket Fuel and one of the thinnest Varivas lines for extra distance...150gm weight!

I am nothing compared to some ......the record is over 900ft or over 300 yards so 150 is nothing in comparison. Tuned Abu 6300C3CT Multiplier and a 13' Daiwa rod....Started at 50 yards and suddenly hit 100 when I got a pendulum swing going, walked miles casting over grass so you can stick your Pinocchio up your posterior!! Record Casts WWW.OUTDOORLIFE.COM Q Is there a record for the world’s longest cast? What equipment was used, and when was it done? My … Continued

Done a bit of beach casting, enjoyed the casting technique, got up to over 150 yards .....well over the length of a football field but not had time to do it for years. Fairly amusing seeing other anglers running at the sea and giving it their all to make 50 yards and then wacking my own weight out 120 yards + with little effort.

Just rebuild the 026 unless it is a right old state. They are usually pretty robust, piston skirts wear in extreme cases, the older carbs can go a bit off piste but apart from that, pretty solid. Other than that, you are talking MS241, MS261.....Stihl has a really silly pricing structure on these two saws...the 241 has a plastic cradle and clam engine, the 261 is more like your 026. I still see 261s with clutch drum issues where I have almost never seen wear on the 026 ones. £120 for an OEM 44.7mm cylinder and you could probably pick up a secondhand carb.

What about Delrin, always a good material. Get some pics up, I am sure some ideas will flow. You mention 1/2" and 12mm......call me stupid but 1/2" is around 12.5mm so 0.5mm of wear, seems pretty small to me. Probably best to drill the wheels out slightly and push in some bush material or turn the axle down and push on a bush.

Blimey, I thought I had clicked on Mumsnet for a moment.....Kettle choice, who would have thought

Allen Scythe even....good call though! The Grim Reaper of long grass.

I never like it when the top end comes off and the land around the cylinder base hasn't been pre cleaned, all that chip and oil falling in to the main bearings

I had one in that had been in to a number of dealers who charged the owner for not fixing the problem. Always an interesting one but on this one, I found the generator loop behind the flywheel was loose. The symptoms were it was rough running and sounded like it was four-stroking (running rich) but it seemed to pull reasonably OK. You may find the screws that hold the generator in place are mullered and it may be a JB weld fix but worth checking this as it is mostly overlooked. These machines did have issues with main bearings - difficult to tell from your vid TBH.