spudulike
-
Posts
14,767 -
Joined
-
Last visited
-
Days Won
8
Content Type
Profiles
Forums
Classifieds
Tip Site Directory
Blogs
Articles
News
Arborist Reviews
Arbtalk Knot Guide
Gallery
Store
Calendar
Freelancers directory
Everything posted by spudulike
-
I thought it may be a colour blind test It is my post with changes and makes no sense to me......think I have attracted a retard
-
Nice saw, I am told they port well
-
Just adjust it to factory settings and then tweak it to get it spot on, same as most machines apart from Mtronic/AT machines. Most issues are the uninitiated not knowing what they are up to and cocking up the settings!
-
The saw I mentioned isn't mine but one I have done for A N Other. Not a problem getting times down and seeing what works for others, been there before. The last times were to clear up others saying ported Mtronic 201s are faster than ported MS200Ts and cleared that one up. You are a few hours away though and not sure my village is ready for Timber-sports yet
-
The coils sit close together when the springs are slack. You need a bit of air between the coils to show that they are pulling on the shoes. If you take the clutch off, those shoes will be looser than they should! It takes minutes and very few£££ to change them.....you know it makes sense!
-
He is usually pretty proactive in dealing with stuff in my experience!
-
The coils sitting tight is a sign the springs are a bit shot, for the sake of a fiver, I would swap them out....they won't get better!!
-
Husqvarna 350 - keep/service/repair old chainsaw, or buy new?
spudulike replied to carbs for arbs's topic in Chainsaws
It has an OEM top end so that is good. I would clean it up, fill it with oil and fuel, see if it starts, if it does, make sure it idles and revs out (without screaming) and ensure it is oiling OK. This is done by pointing the bar at a bit of timber and revving it up - you should get a line of oil formed by the bar and chain flicking it off within 2 seconds although if you haven't cut anything with it it may take slightly longer to draw the oil up. Needless to say, make sure the chain brake works as it should....mid revs, crack the guard forward and the chain should stop immediately. Make sure the chain catcher is in place. Ready to go............ -
I guess the dealers will sell them to home owners who haven't got parts lists and the inclination to find out what they need but can't see many professional customers purchasing them!
-
The clutch springs look a bit slack, fair bit of rust around the shoes!
-
Was it a Mendoza?
-
Looks like the oiling arm or "spring" as Stihl call them! Ref the pic!
-
The binding is either in the engine or external to it. It is possible the flywheel is contacting the coil or a screw has come out and is behind the fly wheel. It is also possible to be a clutch issue. I usually pull the clutch off and the recoil cover and then, with the spark plug out, see if the flywheel is easy to turn round or not and also feel to see if the binding gets better or worse at any point as this tells you something about the engine. When was the saw last used? if it was months ago, the fuel in the cylinder will have evaporated leaving oil in the bore and this can make a saw difficult to turn over. If the saw feels notchy then it may be main bearings, big end or small end. If the saw feels like it is locking up then pull the flywheel off and look behind it....I had a saw once where a screw had lodged itself behind the flywheel - felt terminal but was just fine once I had cleared the issue.
-
1142 is the 462, 1147 is the 500i
-
Give them a bell, they will find out. It is a new model and haven't posted the IPLs yet. They get their parts direct from Stihl UK so they will be the best option - good outfit and care for their customers.
-
I believe it is for draining old engine oil
-
Was that flaming saw one of those MS462s with a magnesium piston😂
-
What's the correct method to take this hung tree down?
spudulike replied to Unframed Dave's question in Homeowners Tree Advice Forum
oldwoodcutter is close to you, may be worth a call? -
Anytime I find anything that can be construed as dangerous or furtive, it goes straight back to the guy that runs the business and/or pays my bill. Best be transparent and honest in business in my opinion!
-
I think the fuel line seals the tank where it exits so the outside diameter is important but based on the vast majority of Husqvarna saws that do this, a fuel line with the outer diameter of 5.7mm - 6mm will do the job, the latter will be a tight fit but both will work. The inner diameter is likely to be circa 3mm with this size line.
-
Excellent news!
-
Well, I had to.....I ran a freshly serviced and ported MS201TC Mtronic against a rebuilt MS200T which has a new top end but not any hours so still a bit tight. The exact same bar and chain fitted to both machines for the test...12" semi chisel. The MS201TC did 7.02s 7.63s 7.58s And the MS200T..... 6.43s 6.56s The 201 is a lot more grabby and doesn't rev as well from the start where the MS200T has instant power and torque. The Mtronic did better than I expected but supports my feelings on which one is ultimately fastest. I reckon with a 14" or 16" bar on a bigger lump of wood, the gap would be larger. I had to climb up a tree to do this test legally😉
-
Hold the centre boss and move up and down to see if there is play in the output bearing. Make sure the power is off!!
-
I can see it, the nudity & depravity.....damn,.........you don't know what you are missing😉
