spudulike

With oiling issues I normally make sure the oil pimp isn't plugged with fine wood chip, make sure the pinion oil gear isn't shredded, check the oil pickup pipe (if fitted) isn't blocked and flush the oil tank. If the oil is getting to the pump, the pump is pumping and the oil pinion is turning the pump, you usually have oil flow. I think this is the IPL for your saw: - https://www.efcopower.com/sites/default/files/951_IPL.pdf I would assume that "sump plug" is a pre filter for the oil pump and probably draws the oil through that filter.

Good method, often works well.

Not sure what a "40" is like but the only one I have done had a worn oil pump and the whole engine had to come out to get to it. very poor design from this perspective. Never again, just not worth the time and effort! As Mark said............ball ache!

Where did you get that from....that is one of my bits of advice. Glad it sorted it BTW.

Yes but mine aren't the blind version.

....and shoot them

2.4KW = 3.2HP

I use marine stainless inserts as long as the land around the hole can support the size of the insert.

Give us a picture of the parts to be fitted and the bit they should fit to as it will help....lots!!

No, must have had four like it in the last month.....I think it is more obvious when you know to look. I run a bead of braze up the crack....will see how that works out.

Beginning to see a lot of these now, basically the heat from the MS201TC&M exhaust port keeps expanding and contracting the metal under the port until the metal cracks like this: -

The IPL shows four M5X18mm screws - looks like some amateur has been at it....not uncommon on an old saw!

No idea on the tank housing, have you pushed the AV annular buffers in fully? On the screw holes - I would look at the holes they are going in to and measure the depth if blind holes and fit the screws that won't bottom out. You have to make sure that the screws won't bottom out or puncture the material behind the screw which can lead to issues or damage to the saw. It is possible a numb nuts has fitted the incorrect screws. Some saws have a cylinder base of different thicknesses front to rear - like the 395XP and the longer ones go to the rear as the cylinder base is thicker to the rear of the cylinder.

From the IPL, it doesn't look like there should be a buffer there - http://thebakeliteradio.com/sawspares.com/Stihl 028AV IPL.pdf

I have Rays autobiography in a stack of books to read over the next year or two. Seems like a very interesting bloke and sure it will be an interesting read.

Thats what I call foreceps....mine were fishing ones for disgorging hooks.....and lock...and look the same as yours

Oil your tube end and the hole then push it in to the hole and pull it through with well worn non sharp pliers.....don't want to split the thing! You can use forceps on the other end if it isn't connected - good enough for arteries, good enough for fuel/impulse lines!

I think we should have a "Donate" charity button so people who get good advice and save themselves a bit of £££ can donate to an Arbtalk charity. What you say Mr Bullman?

The original screw has some sort of coarse screw thread. Options are to tap oversize, use an insert or helicoil the casting but from the pic it looks like the hole is now non central which may be a big issue. Another issue is that this is a safety device and any "lash up" may fail just as you want it to work. You can either stick with the original screw and know this to be a custom affair with a big flange to it and then match the thread for the repair or, use a standard M5 thread and use a screw and a custom bush to make up the form of the original screw. The other option is to stick a screw right the way through and use a lock-nut on the back side of the alloy casting. Very difficult to tell - perhaps a local decent engineer may be able to help but you have to ensure there is no compression between the hand guard and the alloy making the guard stiff and the chain brake operates as it should. I guess you could drill straight through the original screw and then put a longer M5 screw through it with a lock nut on the back of the alloy to hold it in place!

A bit lumpy on terra firma as well

No, as soon as you start the saw, it will burn off very quickly and the saw will be much easier to pull over after that. All the oil is doing is seeping around the rings and piston making it seal extremely well rather than allowing a bit of leakage as it will do once burnt off.

I would get some thin metal plate, make myself a new plate to fit over the complete damaged area, drill the front and rear edges and drill holes through the saws casing and then use JB weld to stick the plate in place and use small self tappers to fix it also. Just make sure you are drilling in to a void not the coil or oil tank etc and make sure the self tappers are short and won't protrude too far through the casing. Damage like this is usually caused by putting the saw down heavily on to something solid like a stone on a concrete hard-standing, If it happens again, it may well go through and then it may be more difficult to fix....stitch in time and all that!

Ah, you are a capitalist then .....I think I still have the remains of some of your 020s lurking in the depths of my garage.

I thought you hated them

Is the saw easy to pull over with the plug out? It is probably the oil you put in the bore on reassembly that has increased the compression to a point it gets very difficult to pull over.