spudulike

Beginning to see a lot of these now, basically the heat from the MS201TC&M exhaust port keeps expanding and contracting the metal under the port until the metal cracks like this: -

The IPL shows four M5X18mm screws - looks like some amateur has been at it....not uncommon on an old saw!

No idea on the tank housing, have you pushed the AV annular buffers in fully? On the screw holes - I would look at the holes they are going in to and measure the depth if blind holes and fit the screws that won't bottom out. You have to make sure that the screws won't bottom out or puncture the material behind the screw which can lead to issues or damage to the saw. It is possible a numb nuts has fitted the incorrect screws. Some saws have a cylinder base of different thicknesses front to rear - like the 395XP and the longer ones go to the rear as the cylinder base is thicker to the rear of the cylinder.

From the IPL, it doesn't look like there should be a buffer there - http://thebakeliteradio.com/sawspares.com/Stihl 028AV IPL.pdf

I have Rays autobiography in a stack of books to read over the next year or two. Seems like a very interesting bloke and sure it will be an interesting read.

Thats what I call foreceps....mine were fishing ones for disgorging hooks.....and lock...and look the same as yours

Oil your tube end and the hole then push it in to the hole and pull it through with well worn non sharp pliers.....don't want to split the thing! You can use forceps on the other end if it isn't connected - good enough for arteries, good enough for fuel/impulse lines!

I think we should have a "Donate" charity button so people who get good advice and save themselves a bit of £££ can donate to an Arbtalk charity. What you say Mr Bullman?

The original screw has some sort of coarse screw thread. Options are to tap oversize, use an insert or helicoil the casting but from the pic it looks like the hole is now non central which may be a big issue. Another issue is that this is a safety device and any "lash up" may fail just as you want it to work. You can either stick with the original screw and know this to be a custom affair with a big flange to it and then match the thread for the repair or, use a standard M5 thread and use a screw and a custom bush to make up the form of the original screw. The other option is to stick a screw right the way through and use a lock-nut on the back side of the alloy casting. Very difficult to tell - perhaps a local decent engineer may be able to help but you have to ensure there is no compression between the hand guard and the alloy making the guard stiff and the chain brake operates as it should. I guess you could drill straight through the original screw and then put a longer M5 screw through it with a lock nut on the back of the alloy to hold it in place!

A bit lumpy on terra firma as well

No, as soon as you start the saw, it will burn off very quickly and the saw will be much easier to pull over after that. All the oil is doing is seeping around the rings and piston making it seal extremely well rather than allowing a bit of leakage as it will do once burnt off.

I would get some thin metal plate, make myself a new plate to fit over the complete damaged area, drill the front and rear edges and drill holes through the saws casing and then use JB weld to stick the plate in place and use small self tappers to fix it also. Just make sure you are drilling in to a void not the coil or oil tank etc and make sure the self tappers are short and won't protrude too far through the casing. Damage like this is usually caused by putting the saw down heavily on to something solid like a stone on a concrete hard-standing, If it happens again, it may well go through and then it may be more difficult to fix....stitch in time and all that!

Ah, you are a capitalist then .....I think I still have the remains of some of your 020s lurking in the depths of my garage.

I thought you hated them

Is the saw easy to pull over with the plug out? It is probably the oil you put in the bore on reassembly that has increased the compression to a point it gets very difficult to pull over.

Well it doesn't look in bad condition. Check out the top end, carb refurb, check the clutch drum and springs, pressure and vac check and should cut your firewood. It will be 1977 - circa 1987.....so only some 40 years old!

We shall see, time will tell but seems an odd way of scamming people!

I don't recall anything beginning with anything but "1"....most of the MS200ts are "16" or "17"....obviously the "17"s are the later ones...around 2010. No idea on the numbers quoted but looks to be mid 70s to early 80s......Glam rock to new romantics!

Introduced 1977 but not sure of the discontinuation date, must be mid 80s. http://www.acresinternet.com/cscc.nsf/ed1d619968136da688256af40002b8f7/5f352eae1aecdc9288256ba20048eb6b?OpenDocument

How about a pic of the saw and the serial...it may speak a thousand words!

What sort of saw is that? It cant have been manufactured in the last 30 years or so!

Drill the broken stud and use an easy out to remove them, just make sure it is a decent drill and a decent quality stud remover as some are pretty mediocre by anyones standards. The biggest issue is if the drill wanders in to the softer alloy as that will be bad news. I have seen snapped ones on 395/390 top cover but not the recoil cover.

You need to pull out the pump and clean, it is a small cylindrical affair and pulls out from the bottom. Easy once you have done a number of them!

Sorry ADW, I used to own a 345 and have done a fair few 350s so know this range well. It was the 245 thing that threw me and thought I would leave it to you

Ah, 345, the common places to get air leaks are the base of the top cylinder where it meets the engineered plastic lower crankcase cradle, the inlet manifold can split around the impulse nipple connector on the inlet manifold or the impulse line can come off where it joins the manifold clamp or the plastic plate the carb screws in to. If the air leak was pretty fast in happening, it is likely to be the impulse connector or possibly the manifold but if it was much slower in happening, the cylinder base is more likely.