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spudulike

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Everything posted by spudulike

  1. spudulike
    OK, lets end the love in...the issue will either be the throttle trigger or the control shaft - that is the white plastic bit that all the kill wire contact springs run on or the bit you stick your finger on to make the saw go loud. It is always one or the other. In the picture - (pinched of Paddy) shows the fast idle mechanism latched. The two arrowed parts are the bits that need to latch and one of them will be damaged...fact.....I thank you😉
  2. spudulike
    Damn...ADW will never let us forget this.....ever😭 Glad it is sorted....lets hope it stays that way....for a long time!
  3. spudulike
    The plug colour is one part, the actual revs being made is the other. Your saw may take another 1000rpm but you won't know that if you haven't set it. Carbon forms on saws running rich, too much oil in the fuel or both! Mmmm on the £30 cylinder...your choice but the standard one will probably make more power!
  4. spudulike
    Not sure why you didn't just helicoil the cylinder on the machine - would have been easier. Just use a quality oil and make sure the saws carb is tuned correctly, that will cut down on carbon building up.
  5. spudulike
    Not a good time to get any parts. Supply chains are in a bit of a state. If the saw is going to go out and earn your living, go OEM!
  6. spudulike
    Mmm, I noticed that. The black solenoid 0000 120 5110 fits the 201 and the 261 along with many other machines so the grey one will fit the same machines and think I have fitted one to a 201TC in the past.
  7. spudulike
    And the other: - M-Tronic Service Kit for Stihl MS261 MS362 Chainsaws - Genuine Part - OEM No. 1140 007 1802 WWW.LSENGINEERS.CO.UK M-Tronic Service Kit. Genuine Stihl Part. OEM No. 1140 007 1802. Kit Contains: Solenoid valve Pickup body For Stihl MS261, MS361C, MS362, MS362C Chainsaws. I thank you!!
  8. spudulike
    Here's one - Service Kit for Stihl MS 201, MS 201 T, MS 201 TC-M Z Chainsaws - 1145 007 1800 | L&S Engineers WWW.LSENGINEERS.CO.UK *Repair kit for carburettor with limiter cap on the low speed adjusting screw* Service Kit Genuine Stihl Part OEM No. 1145 007 1800 Suitable for the Following Applications: MS 201...
  9. spudulike
    😂😂....which one......could be a long night!!!
  10. spudulike
    There is an upgrade kit for the MS201t as the early ones were diabolical. The upgrade kit for the Mtronic MS201TC (which this one is) was the solenoid and a new orange fuel filter as particles were getting through to the earlier solenoids causing poor idle. I think you have got the facts all mixed up, no disrespect meant!😉
  11. spudulike
    Same here, had the carb apart three times as it was just like the high speed circuit was blocked and pulled the coil off another machine in the end and bingo. These modern coils often have different levels of ignition advance for starting, low revs, mid revs and flat out. In this case, I would say that the coil had blown the last one or two stages of advance hence this issue.
  12. spudulike
    Nice, like a rich stewing steak. Good with red cabbage and a bit of a creamy sauce......only had it in Germany...black forest or thereabouts!
  13. spudulike
    No, I don't know the history of the saw or where the parts came from but in my world, flywheels rarely fail, the most common issue is the key getting sheared off and have had one Poly flywheel lose its magnetism by being bashed against the coil as the gap was incorrectly set. Coils are generally reliable but have seen some pretty strange issues such as no spark, spark but not under compression. No spark at all, sparks for a couple of seconds then nothing, spark at idle and dying on any throttle (very weird, probably the ignition advance circuit), spark on idle and mid revs but like the limiter is on at 7000rpm when the throttle held open. How is the coil/flywheel gap set on your saw? If the gap is too large, it may be giving you these issues.
  14. spudulike
    What a poet!
  15. spudulike
    Just another way of doing what I said😉
  16. spudulike
    I am still at a loss as to what the issue was but hope it is sorted now. I see the way you tightened the bar nuts. If you loosen the nuts to finger tight and grip the end of the bar then lift and drop it, you will see the tension in the chain loosen and tighten. You MUST get rid of this effect when you adjust the chain otherwise as soon as you use the saw, the bar pushes up and the chain tension slackens off. There are two main ways of getting rid of this, some chock the end of the bar up with a piece of wood when tightening the bar nuts. I rest my forearm on the chain brake guard, hold the chain on the upper part of the bar with my fingers, pull it strongly upwards and then tighten the bar nuts and check the chain spins round the bar freely. Both methods work and they will take up the play in the bar mount that can cause this issue. Tightening the chain up pretty tight will lift the bar but in my experience, will over tighten the chain.
  17. spudulike
    Sorry, I am North Herts and know ADW isn't local to you. Not sure about others on the site. ADW may have some contacts up near you - he will kick in if he does.
  18. spudulike
    I know ADW likes my Husky porn😉!!!!
  19. spudulike
    Taking down the depth gauges does cause "chatter" when cutting so leaving them slightly high will help if this is the issue.
  20. spudulike
    Sorry, it was a joke, one of the machines I had in that had....issues!
  21. spudulike
    You could try one of these ventilated covers 😃: -
  22. spudulike
    Nice little comparison, better than some of these vids comparing ported MS200ts against MS201TCs with no clarification on what work has been carried out on the ported saw - a 6mm hole in the muffler isn't really ported in the real world!! Nice job and like the use of new chains!
  23. spudulike
    One issue I have seen on the older 560s is that the oil pump comes loose on the two mounting screws and this takes out the oiling worm pinion. The upgrade redesign was to insert brass internal bushes in to the mounts on the new oiler which allows you to tighten the mounting screws up fully and the mounts don't collapse. This would cause an oiling issue but ADW will know the build levels on the 562.
  24. spudulike
    I wonder if the bar studs have come undone slightly and the cover nuts are now tightening on the shank of the bar stud! .....Possible or not?
  25. spudulike
    But if you clamp the fecker hard between the cover and bar mount, how can any delamination make the cover come loose? The only way it could come loose is if one part of the laminate fell out somehow - did it fracture? I just cant see how the nuts come loose if they are done up tight enough. I am talking using a 10-12" tommy bar and socket and doing it up to "pretty tight" and not little scrench tightness where a limp doing up may come loose. How does the OP tighten his bar? Genuine question.....is the bar pretensioned upwards on tightening?

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