spudulike

The coils sitting tight is a sign the springs are a bit shot, for the sake of a fiver, I would swap them out....they won't get better!!

It has an OEM top end so that is good. I would clean it up, fill it with oil and fuel, see if it starts, if it does, make sure it idles and revs out (without screaming) and ensure it is oiling OK. This is done by pointing the bar at a bit of timber and revving it up - you should get a line of oil formed by the bar and chain flicking it off within 2 seconds although if you haven't cut anything with it it may take slightly longer to draw the oil up. Needless to say, make sure the chain brake works as it should....mid revs, crack the guard forward and the chain should stop immediately. Make sure the chain catcher is in place. Ready to go............

I guess the dealers will sell them to home owners who haven't got parts lists and the inclination to find out what they need but can't see many professional customers purchasing them!

The clutch springs look a bit slack, fair bit of rust around the shoes!

Was it a Mendoza?

Looks like the oiling arm or "spring" as Stihl call them! Ref the pic!

The binding is either in the engine or external to it. It is possible the flywheel is contacting the coil or a screw has come out and is behind the fly wheel. It is also possible to be a clutch issue. I usually pull the clutch off and the recoil cover and then, with the spark plug out, see if the flywheel is easy to turn round or not and also feel to see if the binding gets better or worse at any point as this tells you something about the engine. When was the saw last used? if it was months ago, the fuel in the cylinder will have evaporated leaving oil in the bore and this can make a saw difficult to turn over. If the saw feels notchy then it may be main bearings, big end or small end. If the saw feels like it is locking up then pull the flywheel off and look behind it....I had a saw once where a screw had lodged itself behind the flywheel - felt terminal but was just fine once I had cleared the issue.

1142 is the 462, 1147 is the 500i

Give them a bell, they will find out. It is a new model and haven't posted the IPLs yet. They get their parts direct from Stihl UK so they will be the best option - good outfit and care for their customers.

I believe it is for draining old engine oil

Was that flaming saw one of those MS462s with a magnesium piston😂

oldwoodcutter is close to you, may be worth a call?

Anytime I find anything that can be construed as dangerous or furtive, it goes straight back to the guy that runs the business and/or pays my bill. Best be transparent and honest in business in my opinion!

I think the fuel line seals the tank where it exits so the outside diameter is important but based on the vast majority of Husqvarna saws that do this, a fuel line with the outer diameter of 5.7mm - 6mm will do the job, the latter will be a tight fit but both will work. The inner diameter is likely to be circa 3mm with this size line.

Excellent news!

Well, I had to.....I ran a freshly serviced and ported MS201TC Mtronic against a rebuilt MS200T which has a new top end but not any hours so still a bit tight. The exact same bar and chain fitted to both machines for the test...12" semi chisel. The MS201TC did 7.02s 7.63s 7.58s And the MS200T..... 6.43s 6.56s The 201 is a lot more grabby and doesn't rev as well from the start where the MS200T has instant power and torque. The Mtronic did better than I expected but supports my feelings on which one is ultimately fastest. I reckon with a 14" or 16" bar on a bigger lump of wood, the gap would be larger. I had to climb up a tree to do this test legally😉

Hold the centre boss and move up and down to see if there is play in the output bearing. Make sure the power is off!!

I can see it, the nudity & depravity.....damn,.........you don't know what you are missing😉

That's a new one on me, not seen one of those before....thanks.

Fingers crossed, I was just joking!

Sometimes they get online prices wrong, you could phone and ask. I was getting a full Mtronic MS201 handle for £14 for a year or two.....all linkages and wiring assembled. It then went up to £60!!!

This may help, your piston should be bang on TDC when the flywheel is aligned as in fig 3: -

A closed case needle may work well if you can get the three dimensions correct - inner & outer diameters and length. Not a bad idea. On the flywheel, try to get the engine bang in a position where the key is bob on top or bottom of the shaft, clean the taper and flywheel, add a little thread lock and slide the flywheel on and get it vertical as possible, make sure the engine is locked in position and then tighten the nut lightly without moving the flywheel position so you retain correct ignition timing. Let the thread lock go off overnight then crank it up to full tightness and it should last just fine as the key is just to align the flywheel and not to hold it in position. On the KM 4 strokes, there are timing marks at TDC to set the valve timing, this machine should have them also and can be used to align the flywheel correctly.

Looks like the stub is just under the bar mount. The new cover is here, I use L&S for most of my spares, very good outfit and their prices are pretty good. As far as grease, just use LM grease, it will fly out first time you start the machine and isn't really something to get hung up on: - Chain Sprocket Cover for Stihl MS210, MS250 Chainsaws - 1123 640 1704 | L&S Engineers WWW.LSENGINEERS.CO.UK Chain sprocket cover Genuine Stihl Part OEM Part No. 1123 640 1704 Suitable for the following Stihl Machines: MS 250, MS 250 C, MS 230, MS 230 C, MS 210, MS 210 C

Yup, I use mine all the time - a nice gift from another arbtalker many years ago....thanks!