spudulike
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Everything posted by spudulike
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It is rare when I do these machines as they are relatively low cost so don't get to do them too often. The oil pump is like the ones in the pole saw attachments and do those more regularly. Just follow it through - when you pull the pump out, make a note of the positioning of the oil channels on the pump and make sure it is pushed back in with the channels in the same position otherwise you will block the oilways. Good luck
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That all depends on your ability. Here is a similar job done on a MS250, best make sure the oiler pinion is OK and the arm on it hasn't had its end worn off or is loose on the plastic pinion once the clutch is off and before you remove the pump. You can try a bit of watering down the oil with diesel/spirit before this but in my experience, it is easier just to do the full job. Fill your boots: -
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Nope, no adjustment on these machines. Best remove the pump as it is either worn or probably plugged with fine wood chip particles!
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You could try running 5L of Aspen through it. The saws I have seen that have had this have purged a lot of carbon out of their cylinders and ports. Your piston looks pretty good after I enhanced the image, you can see the machining marks on it: - Is the port completely clear of carbon as it looks to be partially closed?
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I'm beginning to like this fella!!
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A bloke sent a 372 in from France once.....clean air filter that wasn't.....Water and suds will work OK if you compressor it afterwards - you need to clear the open areas!
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Sorry Andy, that water oil and dirt settles in the open areas and makes it look like the filter is clean but it is well and truly plugged and will make the AT run lean. The only real way of cleaning is to pass air through them after softening the crud with a spirit of some sort!
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It is rare where I need to change filters off 560, 372, 346, 550 etc. I just clean them thoroughly and withstand the blast from my Chinky Compressor. Sorry...no sales increase😉
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It may just be over use of oil or poor quality oil or/and running rich. Just use 50:1 semi synth oil, clean the piston lightly - it looks in real good shape and then rebuild and tune the top end to within 500rpm of the max revs spec. That should help it out!
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They made changes to the clutch, main bearings, crankcase and a few other parts along the way. It wasn't a true redesign like the 550 but there were significant changes.
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The gauze strainer and also perforated flaps on the pump diaphragm have been seen before.
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20psi......you are having a laugh, I always give it the full monty, 120psi or whatever the compressor can muster. Don't knock on my door if you paper the workshop in filter mesh but have never seen it to date. I guess I must have higher regards to Husqvarna engineering than ADW😉😃
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It says not in stock but L&S are generally very good at chasing in parts and letting you know where they are with your order...... Recoil spring fits Stihl 084 Chainsaw - 1124 190 0600 | L&S Engineers WWW.LSENGINEERS.CO.UK Recoil spring fits Stihl 084 Chainsaw Genuine Stihl Part OEM Part No. 1124 190 0600
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That's bloody classic, sounds like me singing in the car and use that term most loosely!
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Only by people blanking the accelerator pump off with epoxy. My supplier has pumps with the O ring in the middle so it is contacting a different area than the Stihl one so it probably helps. The Chinese carbs generally need almost zero turns on the L screw and whatever the H screw needs to get the revs right. The last one I tried to tune I was using the L screw to adjust the idle it was that bad. If you cant get a tune on a saw within 1-2 mins then there is something wrong IMO!
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If you want to know it is clean, split it, hold it up against a bright light and look at it through a magnifying glass. It may sound excessive but it shows you if the open areas of the mesh are clean or not!
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That's the first aftermarket carb I have ever known to work, every one I have seen on MS200s has been utter $£ite! The 020 carbs are OK but as they get old, they get unstable. The accelerator pump carbs are my preference as they are very stable but...become less so if the accelerator pump wears....but it can be repaired!
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Big CC Chainsaws a thing of the past or will new models come out soon?
spudulike replied to Jamie Jones's topic in Chainsaws
And your location...Malaysia?????? -
Actually a full reset to default settings can only be done with the factory software and interface. What we are describing is the AT unit resetting itself from where it was left to the state of the engine now. What I mean is that if the air filter is stuffed, the AT will set itself to run lean. When the filter is cleaned, the AT will take a few minutes to see the engine is now lean and will reset itself richer when it is cutting under load for minutes. There is no Stihl like action (running on choke) to go back to default on Huskies!
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Of course in wood and you can usually hear the AT reset if major work has been done. It just takes minutes to reset and the AT will continue to monitor and reset if and when required through normal use.
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That's not including UK VAT and the Royal Mails handling fee.....been there before! Best purchase through the global shipping where all tax is paid upfront so there is nothing owing our side!
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When was the last time the saw had its air filter cleaned......to clarify, "cleaned " means removed, split in two parts, a fluid such as white spirit, WD40 or carb cleaner applied and the air filter body and mesh given a good blast. Cleaning doesn't mean a wash under tepid water and left to dry! The Husqvarna reset is to run the saw continuously for around 5 mins flat out. If your saw has been used for normal cross cutting flat out and under load, it shouldn't need resetting. If you have been carving, snedding or any cutting that allows the saw to bounce off the limiter then it will need a reset.
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Who knows....global shipping is the best way but not all sellers offer it!
