spudulike
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Everything posted by spudulike
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The gauze strainer and also perforated flaps on the pump diaphragm have been seen before.
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20psi......you are having a laugh, I always give it the full monty, 120psi or whatever the compressor can muster. Don't knock on my door if you paper the workshop in filter mesh but have never seen it to date. I guess I must have higher regards to Husqvarna engineering than ADW😉😃
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It says not in stock but L&S are generally very good at chasing in parts and letting you know where they are with your order...... Recoil spring fits Stihl 084 Chainsaw - 1124 190 0600 | L&S Engineers WWW.LSENGINEERS.CO.UK Recoil spring fits Stihl 084 Chainsaw Genuine Stihl Part OEM Part No. 1124 190 0600
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That's bloody classic, sounds like me singing in the car and use that term most loosely!
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Only by people blanking the accelerator pump off with epoxy. My supplier has pumps with the O ring in the middle so it is contacting a different area than the Stihl one so it probably helps. The Chinese carbs generally need almost zero turns on the L screw and whatever the H screw needs to get the revs right. The last one I tried to tune I was using the L screw to adjust the idle it was that bad. If you cant get a tune on a saw within 1-2 mins then there is something wrong IMO!
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If you want to know it is clean, split it, hold it up against a bright light and look at it through a magnifying glass. It may sound excessive but it shows you if the open areas of the mesh are clean or not!
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That's the first aftermarket carb I have ever known to work, every one I have seen on MS200s has been utter $£ite! The 020 carbs are OK but as they get old, they get unstable. The accelerator pump carbs are my preference as they are very stable but...become less so if the accelerator pump wears....but it can be repaired!
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Big CC Chainsaws a thing of the past or will new models come out soon?
spudulike replied to Jamie Jones's topic in Chainsaws
And your location...Malaysia?????? -
Actually a full reset to default settings can only be done with the factory software and interface. What we are describing is the AT unit resetting itself from where it was left to the state of the engine now. What I mean is that if the air filter is stuffed, the AT will set itself to run lean. When the filter is cleaned, the AT will take a few minutes to see the engine is now lean and will reset itself richer when it is cutting under load for minutes. There is no Stihl like action (running on choke) to go back to default on Huskies!
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Of course in wood and you can usually hear the AT reset if major work has been done. It just takes minutes to reset and the AT will continue to monitor and reset if and when required through normal use.
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That's not including UK VAT and the Royal Mails handling fee.....been there before! Best purchase through the global shipping where all tax is paid upfront so there is nothing owing our side!
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When was the last time the saw had its air filter cleaned......to clarify, "cleaned " means removed, split in two parts, a fluid such as white spirit, WD40 or carb cleaner applied and the air filter body and mesh given a good blast. Cleaning doesn't mean a wash under tepid water and left to dry! The Husqvarna reset is to run the saw continuously for around 5 mins flat out. If your saw has been used for normal cross cutting flat out and under load, it shouldn't need resetting. If you have been carving, snedding or any cutting that allows the saw to bounce off the limiter then it will need a reset.
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Who knows....global shipping is the best way but not all sellers offer it!
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And Lord knows what they will be with these Brexit changes going on!
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It is 50cc and think that there was a US version without a decomp hole. It will work fine without it, bit more stress on the starter pulley but not an issue! ADW will know all the details!!
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My order is OEM, Meteor and then Hyway. Hyway kit tends to be fairly well made compared to some of the other kit out there. Be careful to ensure the base is completely sealed when using these big bore kits as there isn't much of a base left once the bore has been enlarged.
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That kills the idle with too much fuel floating around but the saw will still rev out as it should, and is rare!!
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Steel rusts very quickly, my discs go rusty overnight so wouldn't put much on that. Found the end of one of my springs next to the car a couple of years ago. As you say, fun job with the compressors!
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I've had a couple of springs go and generally it is a fracture rather than rust that causes them to go, that and the numerous potholes/sleeping bloody policemen!! Nice little job for the weekend!!
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That shouldn't cause issues as long as it is only 4 degrees.......in the correct direction i.e. advanced and not retarded!
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Gauze strainer in the carb, possibly the saw has a small seize, if the top end or carb are aftermarket......😢 the carb may need a bit more on the L screw, if the carb is an accelerator pump one then it may need a new one as this sounds like it isn't pumping the fuel in as it should. replace the fuel filter and blow the air filter through with fluid and air. If all this fails, check the impulse line hasn't come off as it is common. When was it last serviced.........don't bother answering that one as it is always when it broke last!!!!!
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Have you reconnected the impulse line? that can cause a high idle speed.
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Silence is golden😉
