spudulike

I have rebuilt hundreds of these machines and most owners haven't a clue as to what condition their saws are in, what has been done to them, when they were last serviced etc. I have had in the last two weeks - 357XP for porting - circa 2mm up and down play on the big end, MS660 for port and plug insert....Chinese top end, badly split intlet manifold, badly leaking crank seal and air leaks from screw turrets under the flywheel, MS661 for porting......Badly split inlet manifold and oiler pinion falling apart, MS200 with all OEM parts recently rebuilt by another outfit but wasn't running (oh...a four year wait for repair!!!)......cheap damaged Chinese top end......and so it goes on. The seller of this eBay saw knew it wasn't quite right but probably didn't know what was wrong. Loads of power etc was a bit off the truth and you should get your money back as he has described it incorrectly and it has a fundamental fault. I wouldn't kid yourself that any of the kit on eBay is any better. There are many that will use the cheapest top end as it will be £60 in their pocket and they will have little care that you will have less power and less life from your saw. As for repair, if you fit AM parts, it should be listed and if you say it is OEM then it MUST be OEM and charged accordingly. These Facebook fellas that know it all and "Only use OEM parts" are chancers at best! One of them supplied a 346XP to a customer, lasted 10 mins and I was asked to fix it as the last one I did lasted 5 years + without issue......pisses me off when the seller of the 346 gets away with it...not good.

As others have said, it is toast....burnt toast! The availability of quality AM pistons is very difficult at the moment and am personally just using OEM top ends on all seized MS200s that's come in now. If the owner has sold it as used and working, you have a comeback, if he has described it as bogging, he may argue that he didn't know it had seized. Most don't if the rings are still free as the saw still works! You have to look at the rest of the saw to take a view on spending on it. Looks well used and dirty but most are now!

I take it you have checked the piston for scoring?

I thought it may be a colour blind test It is my post with changes and makes no sense to me......think I have attracted a retard

Nice saw, I am told they port well

Just adjust it to factory settings and then tweak it to get it spot on, same as most machines apart from Mtronic/AT machines. Most issues are the uninitiated not knowing what they are up to and cocking up the settings!

The saw I mentioned isn't mine but one I have done for A N Other. Not a problem getting times down and seeing what works for others, been there before. The last times were to clear up others saying ported Mtronic 201s are faster than ported MS200Ts and cleared that one up. You are a few hours away though and not sure my village is ready for Timber-sports yet

The coils sit close together when the springs are slack. You need a bit of air between the coils to show that they are pulling on the shoes. If you take the clutch off, those shoes will be looser than they should! It takes minutes and very few£££ to change them.....you know it makes sense!

He is usually pretty proactive in dealing with stuff in my experience!

The coils sitting tight is a sign the springs are a bit shot, for the sake of a fiver, I would swap them out....they won't get better!!

It has an OEM top end so that is good. I would clean it up, fill it with oil and fuel, see if it starts, if it does, make sure it idles and revs out (without screaming) and ensure it is oiling OK. This is done by pointing the bar at a bit of timber and revving it up - you should get a line of oil formed by the bar and chain flicking it off within 2 seconds although if you haven't cut anything with it it may take slightly longer to draw the oil up. Needless to say, make sure the chain brake works as it should....mid revs, crack the guard forward and the chain should stop immediately. Make sure the chain catcher is in place. Ready to go............

I guess the dealers will sell them to home owners who haven't got parts lists and the inclination to find out what they need but can't see many professional customers purchasing them!

The clutch springs look a bit slack, fair bit of rust around the shoes!

Was it a Mendoza?

Looks like the oiling arm or "spring" as Stihl call them! Ref the pic!

The binding is either in the engine or external to it. It is possible the flywheel is contacting the coil or a screw has come out and is behind the fly wheel. It is also possible to be a clutch issue. I usually pull the clutch off and the recoil cover and then, with the spark plug out, see if the flywheel is easy to turn round or not and also feel to see if the binding gets better or worse at any point as this tells you something about the engine. When was the saw last used? if it was months ago, the fuel in the cylinder will have evaporated leaving oil in the bore and this can make a saw difficult to turn over. If the saw feels notchy then it may be main bearings, big end or small end. If the saw feels like it is locking up then pull the flywheel off and look behind it....I had a saw once where a screw had lodged itself behind the flywheel - felt terminal but was just fine once I had cleared the issue.

1142 is the 462, 1147 is the 500i

Give them a bell, they will find out. It is a new model and haven't posted the IPLs yet. They get their parts direct from Stihl UK so they will be the best option - good outfit and care for their customers.

I believe it is for draining old engine oil

Was that flaming saw one of those MS462s with a magnesium piston😂

oldwoodcutter is close to you, may be worth a call?

Anytime I find anything that can be construed as dangerous or furtive, it goes straight back to the guy that runs the business and/or pays my bill. Best be transparent and honest in business in my opinion!

I think the fuel line seals the tank where it exits so the outside diameter is important but based on the vast majority of Husqvarna saws that do this, a fuel line with the outer diameter of 5.7mm - 6mm will do the job, the latter will be a tight fit but both will work. The inner diameter is likely to be circa 3mm with this size line.

Excellent news!