spudulike
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Everything posted by spudulike
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Sounds a bit more than grim. The guy seemed pretty happy it was working again. He was digging the holes with a spade as he had the view that using a mini digger didn't seem respectful - funny old places grave yards....you find yourself talking to the graves - cleared a few fallen tree branches from our local church!
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Wood burners and indoor polloution
spudulike replied to Saw-sick Steve's topic in Log burning stoves and fireplaces
Needed a quick spray of Cilit Bang....Bang and the mould is gone!! Hope your friend made it BTW.....wouldn't want joke about it if he didn't! -
I once repaired a Honda drainage pump for a grave digger......one of the weirder things I have had in! Worked really well once the carb had been overhauled!
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In need of split drugs firewood wholesale in Hertfordshire!
spudulike replied to william petts's topic in Firewood forum
Bugger, that's the house prices lowered. Will have to knock the crystal meth factory on the head now!! -
I did the experiment, water still there, a layer of dye and it didn't work. A lesson learnt - just put the fuel in a clear container and pour off all the fuel and bin the water at the bottom of the container! Another blower with a load of dodgy fuel...now fixed!
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Bugger, he is out with the fairies, will have to wait until Saturday morning. He's never been the same since he smoked those magic mushrooms!!
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£300 sounds like a bargain to me!
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What is it singing? Something festive or something child like...Disney or similar?
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Chrome here! Not my drink of the night but my browser!
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A swearing fecking Unicorn unless I am mistaken and ask the wife.....I am always right!!!!!!
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And whats this, Scotch bloody mist: -
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Fecking hell
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I think the OP may be on drugs judging by the swearing unicorn!! Not sure I understand it....probably my age!
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I reckon that the spring will be the issue. Fitting it can be an interesting experience. A bench vice and assembling the bottom half before putting it in to the vice helps. Mole grips usually come in to getting the spring back in to position. Make sure that the spring isn't bent or damaged when fitting, the first one is usually an experience. Once the spring is in the bottom half and in a vice, push the spring in to the top clutch shoe, clamp it with the mole grips and then I usually lift the shoe with a screw driver whilst forcing the spring in to the shoe with plumbers grips. I am sure ADW has a factory tool for the job, bless him but us mere mortals use hammers😉.......and take the ridicule and abuse!! I am thinking the spring is pretty shot and is allowing the clutch to be always engaged thus the stalling when the brake is applied. The most obvious is usually the route cause.
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Yup, good workout, who needs a gym!! Good when it starts though.
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It bloody well kills me starting it, no wonder they put a valve in the carb you remove to prime it! It is a big ol lump by anyones standards!
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Well it isn't one of those ones from B&Q😉 Yup, the 80cc one and is curiously difficult to pull over now! It was just a plate of aluminium about 1.5mm thick.
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It sort of makes you wonder what the thought process was? Perhaps some experience of other equipment?? The Yanks call them jugs for a reason! Just means something else this side of the pond.
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There is on my McCulloch.......or there was before I removed it!!
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The part code is -503 28 90-10 and in stock. I would normally change the complete piston as wear on the piston itself can have quite an effect on the compression but it does look like the ring is excessively worn so may be worth a punt. Piston Ring for Husqvarna 242, 246, 340, 345 Chainsaws - 503 28 90 05 | L&S Engineers WWW.LSENGINEERS.CO.UK Piston Ring Genuine Husqvarna Part OEM No. 503 28 90 05 Suitable for the Following Application's: 242, 246, 340, 345, 356XP, 350, 40, 42, 45, 49, 240, 245, 245R, 245RX, 345R
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TBH I wasn't sure if you were saying the plug could come loose or the insulator may blow out or something else. The guy fixed it, that is the main thing and it didn't cost him anything. I had a saw sent in once with the exact same fault. In my case it took me about 30 seconds to find the fault hence what I said! We still love you😉
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My experience is measuring at the base of the bore and never seen 40 thou on any machine. That is massively worn!!! 7-15 is fairly typical with 20 on a well used old machine being normal! The cheapest fix would be to get a decent quality piston...OEM, Meteor, Hyway, Episan and fit that making sure it is set to rev as a 350 would be. Check the plating is still good on the bore and lightly hone to accept the new piston.
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Like most of these things, info on the workings of the saw will probably be kept back by the manufacturer until they want to divulge them. Only those close to the company will be in the know but am sure it will be interesting!
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It does sound like the clutch drum is catching the clutch so a bad needle bearing or a weak clutch spring could be the issue. If you set the idle to something that sounds about right (technical talk for 2800rpm), If the chain creeps, does putting the chain brake on stop the chain but the saw continues to idle OK or does it stall? Don't do this for any length of time as the drum may get hot. My bet would be a weak clutch spring or it may have been stretched/damaged if removed before.
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Sorry, I was talking ring end gap clearance and not piston to bore. I have seen some piston skirts shattered down to excessive piston slap through wear. The MS260 was one culprit!
