spudulike

Seen one or two of these manifolds crack, probably the heat and perhaps done up too tight on the carb mounting screws.

How can I say this.......what a twat!!!!! Oh.....Darwin!

Did he say nipple again....dirty boy😉

That's a MS661 but pretty similar, you need to remove the carb, undo all the AV mounts, remove the top handle and then pull the fuel tank off and then refit the new one. Takes 30 mins - 1hr and is relatively simple. The tank to plastic handle is plastic welded and can crack. Be 100% sure the join has cracked and is the issue as the new tank isn't cheap!

And what about the price of Bitcoin😉

I have seen a clutch lose the small shoe retention lip on the central boss and allowed one of the shoes to bore a hole in the clutch cover! Not too good at the time. Best use a boss tool rather than belting a clutch with a hammer and drift IMO.

That looks like the wear you get just before the sprocket when running a chain too loose but never seen it that far down a bar before. Possible that you have a pinch on the bar causing a tight spot.

Yes but what were the bad bits

Blimey, that is a bit harsh even by my standards, you getting cold turkey now you have finished that Downton Abbey box set you got for Christmas

The case is plastic, the HT would only short to earth, in this case, the engine, it won't travel through plastic. Is the HT cap on the plug correctly, is the HT cap connected to the HT lead correctly?

The only thing generating electricity is the coil and this is joined to the HT cable and that joins the spark plug. Are you holding the saws handles when you get these shocks? Is the saw running? It is possible but unlikely that you are charging yourself with static through synthetic clothing and that is earthing through the saw but through plastic handles.....extremely unlikely, unless it is through the bar.......weird!

Point the bar tip at a freshly cut piece of wood and rev the saw - you should lay down a nice line of oil pretty much immediately. Is this on all your machines or just one? Are the oil pumps set to maximum? Especially if you are using a longer bar. Are your chains sharpened regularly, blunt chains kill bars. I am assuming that you are using the correct chain for the bar, not 1.5mm on a 1.6mm bar

Got another one today, the wife spots them and I splat them, I think they are under a neighbours shed but their numbers are diminishing rapidly!

Back to the Downton Abbey Box set then

Nice, Cantonese style...little chilli kick!!

If we didn't feed the birds, the rats would still be there but we wouldn't see them. It isn't a problem for me, got a couple of decent rifles that will dispatch a rat very easily. The bird food falls from the holders on to the ground and usually the fat pigeons hoover it up and the odd rat that turns up doesn't last long! I am sure most of the people in the village would say that they couldn't possibly have rats...really They aren't under my shed....anymore

And me....a big bugger eating the bird food, got him smack in the head, no chance of escaping

I stapled damp course membrane on my raised garden wood after the first lot rotted after a few years. Seems OK so far after a couple of years.

I always thought No 6 was sweet and sour chicken

My generic oil issue check.....flush the tank with a bit of Diesel/Petrol/Spirit, Check the pickup pipe and attached filter - pop a bit of WD40 down it and make sure it comes out of the filter - do not use an airline on it as it will BURST!!! Inspect the pinion oil pup drive gear, it is easy to miss damage so inspect for a flat on the worm thread and also look at the start of the thread and follow it whilst rotating the gear, I have had one where the thread was broken and ran in to itself instead of completing the path to the end of the pump thus stopping the pump rotating. FInally, blast some WD40/cleaner in one end of the pump and expect it to come out of the other freely if the housing is worn or less freely if it is in good order but.....you should beg some through. Blasting with a compressor is fine, wigling any blockage out with a pin is an option and, depending on the pump, you can often see a blockage or see the pump shaft if it is OK. Blockage is more likely to happen on the pickup/Input side. This should fix most pump issues. Pump housings do wear to the point they stop working, the initiated can tell from blowing down a pit of fuel pipe pushed against the pump input or outlet holes.

This is the tool ADW mentioned. If you have an old socket of the correct dimensions, you can fabricate one yourself! Make sure you take the recoil cover off when removing and refitting the clutch as the pawls locate in the recoil pulley unlike many other saws. I personally find the Stihl piston stop, one of the best - that is the dog bone double ended one. Never use a metal screw in type as it is likely to crack the crown of the piston. Puller for Husqvarna 445, 450, 455, 460 Chaisnaws - 502 54 16-03 | L&S Engineers WWW.LSENGINEERS.CO.UK Puller / Koppling Genuine Husqvarna Part OEM No. 502 54 16-03 Suitable for the Following Application's: 340, 345, 346, 350, 351, 353, 445, 450, 455, 460

But......new saws are run on Alkalyte fuel in the factory as you can smell it in the tank on new machines.....just saying what I have found!

Yeah, but there is "adjusted" and "ADJUSTED"!!! Not sure I can describe these BRs as being adjusted.

PCP air rifle and a good telescopic has done a few in my back garden. Poison and traps if you don't fancy a shooting party. They are partial to peanut butter and bacon for the traps! Terriers/Jack Russells are formidable ratters!

It is strange but....it has wiped this fella out, taken me a long while to get them sorted. The MS150 was pretty normal and a re-tune sorted it within minutes but these blowers were something else! definitely carb related and no retune was going to get them running correctly!! Just read your post again....the 881 must be just a few months old....probably the reason it is OK!!