spudulike

The main issue with the 346 is the crankcase covers half the bearing and makes the stop when inserting the bearing. This makes inserting the seal a sod. You also need the taper boss that allows the seal to pass on to the centre race of the bearing without damaging it or dislodging the spring. Usually best to try to get the seal in under that alloy lip first so the seal is located well on that side and then get it at a slight angle and tap it in from the unexposed bearing (Bottom) side. Use plenty of grease to help it in. The factory tool tends to catch on the alloy and cock up insertion. A long reach socket does it for me every time but it still is a sod of a job on these machines and the cost of the seal is stupidly high!

It is a bastard, you do it with care because those seals are bloody expensive!! I don't like that tool, it is better for 560s, I prefer my trusty long reach flat ground socket and did I mention....care!!!

The plug shouldn't undo if done up tight, the HT cap should also help hold it in place. That and checking it during regular cleaning will help. BTW, leaving it loose to make the engine run better is a load of bollocks from a past age!! If you get an engine where the plug keeps coming loose, you could try a little thread lock on it but it really should not be needed but is better than the thread being taken out. Oh - one last thing, use a quality tap and not a £6 ebay one. The lead-in (pilot nose) taps are good and Vokel make some nice quality taps - cheap taps give cheap results and "cheerful" isn't included!

Prise the fuel line off, remove the wires as marked and draw the carb out. It may be a bit stuck in place and need a screw driver to shift it. The linkages will come off once the carb is half out.

Unless you are a brain surgeon or skilled gynecologist.....yes!

That is the switch that determines if the choke is open or shut. The solenoid is just above and behind it! The handle housing is left as is, the fuel line and wires need removal and then draw it out. Getting the choke and throttle rods back on and the carb fitted is the difficult bit unless you know the trick!!

Strange, my engine light came up and it diagnosed it down to a faulty exhaust sensor and even pointed out which one it was. I think I had to google the code but it was bang on. For under a tenner it was worth every penny in my instance!

To remove the solenoid, you need to remove the retaining clip held on with a small torx screw which may be interesting without a micro torx screwdriver kit - cheap enough off ebay and good for laptops and phones. I get a fair number of issues with blocked gauze strainers. You always need to remove it and inspect it with a magnifying glass - I had one catch me out years ago, looked fine but when I pulled it out - it had hardened scum in it. Pump diaphragms can end up with perforated flaps where they seal the holes beneath them - generally on well used machines but it does happen! The carb needs removing to do it. The upgraded solenoid kit is a good idea. These small spark plugs do get carboned up and can give issues so swap it out. The wiring loom under the top handle can stretch and break - best replace it. Symptoms are the kill switch stops working if the black wire or one of the yellow wires breaks. If the earth breaks, the saw gets loaded up with fuel and keeps dying. If the red wire breaks, the saw gets really lumpy and won't rev out well and expect the idle to die.

Sorry but highly unlikely. I have seen coils hitting flywheels de magnetize the composite (plastic and metal) flywheels stopping the saw working but yours looks better than most and is unlikely to have caused any damage. I would have looked at the wiring loom for the Mtronic, the solonoid, the spark plug and carb in general - pump diaphragm and gauze strainer! Much more likely.

Here is the correct part: - Flywheel - Genuine Stihl OEM No. 1145 400 1201 | L&S Engineers WWW.LSENGINEERS.CO.UK Flywheel. Genuine Stihl Part. OEM No. 1145 400 1201.

Sorry, it appears the Mtronic one with two magnets is the 1201 part number and the 1202 version is the single magnet with the ignition advance and at a guess reckon the original MS201t on release had a 1200 part code! I was thinking the later number would be the latest saw...doh. Anyway, you need part code ending 1201 for the Mtronic saw....sorry for the confusion. Both are different and will not fit the other type of machine. You need two magnets for your saw.

The flywheel in the above pic is the 1201 and is for the NON MTRONIC saw. Your saw needs the 1202 flywheel with TWO magnets and that should be on the underside of the original flywheel.

Nope, I believe that is the one you replaced the other one with. I am guessing you sheared the key on your original? Take both flywheels, look at their underside, they will have part codes on them. Your original flywheel will end in 1202 and I reckon your new one is 1201. Where did you get this from? Both flywheels are still available. Also, don't over-torque the flywheel nut as they can make a ping as the center support turret fractures!!! BAD!!!

I have just looked and it seems your car has an OBD2 (on board diagnostic port). You should be able to plug in a cheap (£5) OBD2 dongle and then read this with a Torque app on an android phone or am I missing something?? I have this one....bloody marvelous! Auto Scanner Bluetooth ELM 327 OBDII OBD2 Car Diagnostic Scanner For Android iOS WWW.EBAY.CO.UK Notice: 1. NOT for iOS ! NOT for vehicles. Bluetooth connection, no Batteries, Cables, or Switches. How to use: Plug the device in your car's port, start the car, enable...

Damn, that is some good cleaner you have there!!!😉

The second set of magnets are to generate the EMF for the AT unit BTW!

Sounds to me like he has the Mtronic version saw that uses two magnets on either side of the flywheel but has fitted the one of the earlier machine that uses one magnet - strangely I think the part code he gives is correct though and the earlier one ends 1201.

Much of the issue is sedentary life styles behind desks or steering wheels. I shed a stone in a few months after stopping being employed in a job that entailed driving and desk work. When I went from manufacturing and on my feet much of the day to a sales/desk/driving job, I stuck 2.5 stone on over 10 years. A couple of years working for myself, on my feet all day and those 2.5 stone came straight off with two stone rolling off in around 6 months. One key difference between fat people and thin people is that thin people will have a big meal one day and then have a smaller meal the next day and take a long walk/exercise etc. Fat/Obese people will most likely carry on eating and not take any exercise with the typical excuse that they can't walk any distance......really!! How about doing 100yds day 1, 150 day 2, 200 day 3 etc.......that's how it works! We regularly do 6-8 mile walks, 3 miles is a stroll in our household - we also walk fast to get the most benefit from it! We have to keep fit in these strange times!

Pop the top cover off the saw and we will be able to tell if the cylinder is OEM or cheap aftermarket. If it is aftermarket, the saw may not work as well as if it was original. Carbs are generally changed when dealers can't be arsed to pull them apart and make sure it is OK, unfortunately it leaves the customer with a £100 bill or a cheap aftermarket carb on the saw! The saw is a good saw. I had a 345 which is the same saw but smaller cylinder and it was a damn good small saw, I cut a load of wood for the burner with it and sold it on a few years ago and just seen it come up on ebay so a good saw.

And we hate them because when we clean them, they cover our workshop and tools in abrasive gritty dusty shyte that gets everywhere and is worse than greasy wood-chip by far.

Stone cutters and saws are different, that dust in stone cutters is highly abrasive so seals, main bearings and cylinders get knocked out pretty quickly if the filtration is not looked after. I hadn't thought about punching holes in the air filter with a compressor but can see that on this type of equipment, it would be best to do regular replacement of the filtration system rather than blasting it as we would do on a chainsaw. I once purchased three TS400s and all had crap seals, crap mains and just sold the lot on as it was not worth rebuilding them.....never looked at the cylinders!

I know two fit arb circa 35 yr old customers who got it and it stuffed them for a month + before they could do a days work, one other customer had a 50 yr old fit friend he lost to it. I liken it to Russian roulette, the young play with perhaps one bullet and the elderly with 4 bullets in a 6 chamber revolver. The latest variant seems to be taking out younger people and we don't know what the ongoing mutations will do. I think if I hear "it is like flu" again, I will scream!! The death rate just doesn't concur that at all.

When you fit the gasket set, take great care in getting the order of the gaskets correct. Also note that there is a spring under the needle arm that needs correct positioning, the arm may need adjusting to the correct height and any dirt or corrosion around the needle will need to be carefully cleared from the aperture the needle fits in to. L&S are good guys, one of the best suppliers as they hold vast stock, are relatively good value and good customer service. You have probably looked at an EFCO branded carb kit, most carbs are by Walbro, Zama and Tilllotson and their own carb kits are cheaper than the Efco kit then there are aftermarket kits that are cheaper still. Manufacturers tend to pretty much use the same diaphragms in a complete range of carbs, yours being the Walbro WT range. Probably less that the other companies are taking you but the original manufacturer marking up their parts to a ridiculous price! Easy to get caught out but less so if you live and breath the business on a daily basis! Hope you sort it, I have seen a bit of corrosion on needle valves before!

Pretty much my thoughts with the few exceptions I have found to be a semi leaking needle valve slightly flooding the engine and a coil/HT lead sparking in air but not under compression....it does happen believe me and the spark was at least 6mm long and blue on the tester! The rest is as you said!

The turbo nozzle goes a long way to balance low flow/pressure and the ability to clean stuff. For those that don't know what this means - basically the turbo nozzle delivers a very thin jet of pressurized water, this would normally allow you to only clean a small area but the turbo nozzle wobbles the jet all over the place so you get a powerful clean but don't need top pressure. All you need to do is find the right size jet and the correct fan movement for your application. This all falls flat if you use a block paving head with a weedy cleaner but that's life! 32l per minute...bloody hell, that would take barnacles off a hull, the paint and sacrificial anodes!!!!