spudulike

Looks like the OP has pissed off in to the sunset!

Yes but the OP said the chain stops rotating. Flywheel clag will just make the idle die in my experience!

Sounds like the bar tip sprocket is failing or has been damaged. Best fit a new bar and chain and try that. Not sure what the "clogging up" bit is! I take it the oiler is functioning OK? Point the bar tip at a piece of clean wood and rev flat out, it should leave a line of fresh oil in 2-3 seconds.

I have employed hundreds of workers over 20 years in manufacturing. I learnt to bin off young unreliable workers that typically lived with mum and dad, got pissed up at the weekend and didn't give a toss about the business. If a strong man to man chat has no effect then working bloody hard for a few weeks knowing you are by yourself or with a smaller team is often more palatable than putting trust in a time waster. My advice is to always have a few likely employees you keep in touch with so if your guy starts letting you down, you can bin them off and move on fast. On the other side, if you get a good one, spend time with them, give them bonuses for ideas, hard work, finishing jobs well, clean and early as employment cuts both ways!

503 21 74-25 is the correct part no!

Glad it worked out and looks like a fixed saw.

Just caught up on this. The seals you use with the machine assembled are softer and will push passed the lipped surround. I had this on a 039 I believe, similar thing with two sets of seals for assembled or unassembled engines.

Was it just the 850 McCulloch you wanted? I have a 1-40 80cc and a later 100cc saw something like 595 but can't remember the model type. Both run and are in good nick. I may be parted from one or both but expect a good price for them otherwise I will keep them. PM me if interested!

Here you go......

Those double glazed panes are relatively easy to replace. On the inside or the outside, there will be a slight gap where the angled plastic beading meets the flat part of the frame. This means that this is the side the beading is removable. The professionals use something that looks like a pizza slicer, the less initiated use a big wood chisel to prise the beading out from the middle of the window and then do the same with all the beading. Measure the glazing whilst a partner holds the pane in place, replace the beading, order a glazed unit (remember the thickness of the glazed pane), repeat and fit the new pane....or get a glazier in. How do I know...I fitted all the windows in my house....saved a few bucks. Other than that, Nepia and Joe have it pretty much bob on. Look at Rightmove and see what looks good to you and replicate it. Most prospective purchasers will notice all the stuff that needs doing and will get to the tipping point where they smile and run in to the distance!!

It should have come in the factory plastic bag with the company "H" logo all over it and have the white sticky label with the part code and bar code on it. I have never seen a new sprocket look like that before.

Know what you mean, the courgettes have been re potted twice but the tomatoes - got my first truss forming and the plants are only 6" tall..hopefully it will warm up soon and get some growth and the courgettes out in the garden at long last!

Unusual then, they are normally pretty stable!

Looks clean, no AV, good luck with getting it going!

It was around 25 years ago and the fella at Plumb Centre said.....this is what you need......did it work....er...yes it did just fine. I think I was pre Google at that time!!!

Probably a Walbro carb taken off, poor idle stability, revs picking up on idle and then dying, bogging but runs OK flat out but can scream are usual symptoms.

Well I am not planning on doing any more, not cost effective.....all my kit is tweaked one way or another, just the way it is!

I had the same in my previous house, 3/4" and only had 22mm pipe. The normal fix is something called Plumbers Mait and a 3/4" compression fitting and use lots of force to do it up......sealed up in my case and terminated in a fully metric new bathroom!! Plumbing is OK, the biggest issue is getting to pipes and fittings in restricted spaces.

BG85 is different than the BG86, the 85 is non strato and the 86 most definitely is! The BG86 needs a lot more warming up and when warm, I wind the H screw all the way out till is starts lowering in revs then wind it back in to peak revs then out around 1/4 turn to fatten up the fuel a little. This way you get the unit revving as it should....the L screw can be a bit hit and miss but you basically tune it so you get a good pickup. My BG85.......well I modified it a bit and it pulls higher revs much better and works well. The carb can be a bit iffy but mostly due to the primer check valves which can get stuck. Not a bad blower but I got mine for £25

I think we can be rest assured it will be neither the Zama or Walbro carb. The last Zama one I got cost a fair bit of wedge but a few years back, they were just over £40 from L&S. The Zama doesn't flow as much fuel but it is very stable, the Walbro is impossible when the accelerator pump fails. Not sure I like these cheap carbs, they seem to have a tiny part of the low speed adjustment on the L screw where the sweet spot is where an OEM one has 1/4 - 1/3rd of a turn at least. It can make for a very unstable saw on idle.

Yes, been flippin cold in the evening....hornbeam fires....very nice!

Yamaha make some decent guitars, got an APX600 myself, plays well.

Depends on the cost of the carb kit and the cost of the AM carb. I have used Chinese AM carbs here and there but they can be very sensitive on the L screw adjustment, some like the ones on MS200Ts are unusable and un-tunable. If the carb is damn cheap, buy the carb and if it isn't too hot, take the parts off and fit them on your OEM carb. Mostly OEM carbs can be rebuilt, there are exceptions that I have found where nothing works but it is relatively rare. How sure are you it isn't an issue elsewhere?.......carbon in muffler/exhaust port, dirty air filter, low compression, dirty fuel filter etc. The carb may just need a bit of carb cleaner down the H&L screw holes and a retune!

A week ago, all seems OK, got the peppers and cucumbers out now. I hate it when the toms go all leggy and the first truss is a couple of foot off the deck. Best get the toms in with loads of light to get a much lower truss and a bushy plant.

Yup, you are correct but old two strokes are old two strokes usually with hardened diaphragms, degraded fuel lines and buggered fuel filter. Seen those little spark modules on very old stihls before!