spudulike
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Everything posted by spudulike
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No, Front Side Bus....computing term and of major importance to overclockers!!
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As above but the wider kerf being cut with the 1.5 chain will sap more power from the 450 than the 1.3 so expect the performance to be slower. A full chisel will take more power than a semi. If you have the B&C, try the 450 on the 346 cutting gear and see what it is like. All the B&Cs should be 0.325" pitch.
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You could try a standard "Treasure Hunters" metal detector. There are older ones on eBay for around £30 and they will go down to a good depth if it is a decent brand like C Scope, Garret etc 6" - 8" detecting depth is quite possible on a nail, especially after it has been in wood a long time as the nail rusts, putting salts in to the area around the nail making a better target.
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Yes, thanks for the info. Bit baffled as to why a carb should stop working when the engine got hot but as long as it is sorted, all is good.
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I can't see any reason why bare metal isn't OK on the inside of the crankcase. As long as there is no loose paint then it should be OK in my opinion.
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If it still plays up, check the tappets and also the gauze strainer, just done two more of these. One seemed to have low compression and the tappets were a bit tight. Backing them off restored the compression. The gauze strainers were also a bit grotty - remember to flush the tank out if you find chip in the strainer. Hope it is sorted though!
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Bugger all I would say
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It would be expensive..... Flywheel With Magnetic ring on the back) Generator Wiring loom Top handle Rear handle Pads Switch It is dooable, just damn expensive!
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They are very collectible. I recently sold both of mine as I am having a significant clear out. They sell pretty easily and helped if they are runners.
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Yes, a glance at the bottom of the oil tank proves that. Simple fix to the leak is to degrease the central foot bit of the oil tank and bond some thin metal to the case with JB weld which seals the oil tank and makes a stronger foot. Much cheaper and easier than replacing the crank cases!! -
I have been in the saw today. The main issues that have caused the running issues: - 1) Impulse line off 2) Accelerator pump significantly worn 3) The cylinder has seized at some stage but only lightly. The transfer has pushed the piston toward the back of the bore and it has worn the plating off. I am thinking this rather than ingress of chip through the inlet port as is more common. Other issues - The bottom of the oil tank has worn from the outside bottom where the saw has been stood on concrete and now leaks. One of the muffler screws is M6. Clutch cover is pretty shot but am already waiting 2.5 months for 2 on order. Brake band worn. A few other bits and pieces.
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All day long and every day forever. You won't be thanking yourself for saving £30 when that saw kicks back and cuts through your forehead. Some of these Chinese parts are crap, the early MS200T manifolds I purchased went straight in the bin and now stick to the OEM part, the AV mounts are like plastic and shear from the metal mounting plate and I avoid anything to do with brake bands and chain brake parts.
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Tell you what......come back once you have been inside the thing and waggled your multimeter at it and the flashing red lights on the battery are pissing you off There are lots of ribbon cables in these electric tools and hell knows what they all do!!
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Yes, 266 and is a 1982 model so only 39 years old. Guess who has one of those green 181SEs......they do pull pretty hard in the cut....mildly fettled!!
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Unfortunately I do and have done electronics, computers as well as engines, cars, bikes and a multitude of other stuff including fitting double glazing and beyond the simple checks, a multimeter is unfortunately, pretty useless.
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Here is a bit of vintage chainsaw porn for ADW, I know he likes his old Huskys. A local dealer had it in for three months, did nothing and think he was looking for the AT port to diagnose the issue....bless him!! It is in pretty good condition, just needed a tank flush, new fuel filter, carb clean and plug then a retune and bingo, nice running machine!
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The trouble with these electric bits of kit when they don't run, they just flash red lights at you and it usually means they need plugging in to the diagnostic kit and that is a dealer or someone that has spent out £450 on the kit! These machines don't talk to you, it is either full chat or total absolutely nothing!
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About as much as I like Anchovies!!
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No idea on the total sold but I have sometimes had 5 in from single customers, 2-3 from many.......I buy 20 off chain catchers at a time and most need them! TBH they have been a good model for me once I got my head round all their little foibles! I went through peak weeks of 4-6 in per week and that was pretty usual! It is just the way it is....cult saw, many love it and want the saw gone over completely and thoroughly!
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I don't know who "Frank" is but I agree...museum piece!
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Stick a load of carb cleaner down the AC air intake and lob a match in to the car - that will sort it.....just make sure you can afford another car.....and run fast!
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I think he is taking it to me and am happy to sort it out. I think, like most 200ts, it has had a life and will probably benefit from a strip, clean inspect and rebuild but will reserve judgement until he passes it over. I wonder how many of these I have done over the years, must be 500 or so, perhaps more.
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Take a look at the gap between the rear of the cylinder and the air box partition. At the bottom of the back end of the cylinder, there will be a pipe going on to a brass union. If the pipe is flapping, get some forceps or tweezers and push it back on. This is the impulse line and it is connected to the carb. You don't need to remove the carb to do this. Also check the cylinder bolts that hold the cylinder down are tight, If they are loose, you will need to remove it and reseal as I believe I dropped your base gasket!
