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arboriculturist

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  1. Woah, quite a few options there thankyou. At least I have an idea what will work reasonably well on and off road. Tyres are quite subjective by all accounts !
  2. Old Weller Wheels - that's going back a bit. I will search for the Kumho, not come across them. Thankyou.
  3. The aging Ranger needs new tyres and with the trend of 6 months of relentless rain every year they need to be good. The M+S that are on there have been almost useless. I rarely travel more than 5 mile radius, so tyre road noise is irrelevant. I am hoping there will be a definitive answer and this is certainly the best pace for experienced advice. Thankyou in advance.
  4. Sounds perfect to me Steve - I will report back in due course 👌
  5. Maybe Spud has done these mods in the past ?
  6. Yes it is - the MS150 C and there is no torx screw - it is 100% one piece with nothing removable. Can I still mod this Steve ?
  7. Ideal - Stihl diagram is slightly different than the L&S ones I have used. I shall post how this all pans out. Thankyou.
  8. Excellent ! I will change the old for a new nylon filter. This 12 year old saw has a single piece muffler with no top cover. Yes very good learning curve.
  9. Thankyou Steve. I have the bare engine on the bench clutch and flywheel off. There is definitely some in and out movement and up and down movement of the crank in the bearings. This saw has had a lot of use, so I would expect some wear in the bearings over 12 years of use. I find it easy to work on. I have a good level of engineering skill, not on your level of course. I have no hesitation in pulling the bearings and replacing. I cannot see on any schematic of a MS150 C if there is a seal between the 2 halves of the crankcase, you would know of course. Some may say I am wasting my time, but parts are lo cost for this saw and I am happy to persist.
  10. Ok, so I have ' grabbed the bull by the horns ' like a lot of you would do. Checked the impulse and fuel pipes - perfect. Rubber carb manifold - perfect. On close inspection with just the engine unit in my hands it is apparent that there is some end float movement and some lateral movement of the crankshaft. I could see bubbles in soapy water around crank seals after sealing exhaust and inlet ports and blowing gently into inpulse spigot in barrel - so they are leaking air. I could replace bearings and seals myself ( I have no bearing puller) or give to someone to replace ? Parts are all lo-cost items as are the crankcase and barrel gaskets. Any thoughts
  11. A lot of sound advice from everyone thankyou. Yes this is an old saw and I like to get a long life out of my equipment, saws included. Spud fitted a new barrel / piston and ported the Husky 346XP which is now 26 years old. Better than the day I bought it. Yes replaced odd bits and pieces but that is still a tremendous machine. I accept that the time does come when repairs become uneconomic and this is looking like one of those times. I am not sure if I can pull those bearings without a puller though if I go down that road ?
  12. Thanks for replying : 1. New air filter fitted - no difference. 2. Muffler clear. Piston perfect. Port already spotless of carbon. 3. Flywheel area clear as I had flywheel off to check keyway was perfect. Engine mounts good and I took the stop switch out of the equation. This may or may or not be relevant - but the saw will only run for 10 or 20 seconds with the choke on and held on full throttle.
  13. I take your point and that was my initial thought, especially as many of the parts on that saw will fit the 150 TC's.
  14. I have a Stihl MS 150 C and a Stihl MS 150 TC. Both are 12 years old. The MS 150 C has become harder to start over a few weeks and now after getting it started it will barely run at low revs for more than 10 seconds before cutting out. I stripped the carb, found nothing amiss and built it up again and re-fitted. Same symptoms. So removed carb and fitted it to the MS 150 TC and this saw ran perfectly with the MS 150 C carb. I tested the resistance of the coil, which appeared as specified. So I removed the coil off the MS 150 C and fitted it to the MS 150 TC. Pulled it over and it started 1st pull, revved up fine and ticked over perfectly. I am thinking crank seals but have no way of testing crankcase pressure. This saw has done a fair amount of work. There appears to be the slightest of play on the flywheel end of the crank, which is the end I looked at. If the crank seals need replacing what is the likely cost if I gave it to someone stripped already and is it worth it on this 12 year old saw ? These are the only saws I have that Spud has not ported ! Any replies much appreciated.

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