spudulike
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Everything posted by spudulike
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Just run the saw for a few seconds, stick the tester in the plug hole, don't use the decomp and pull the saw over once, look at the reading (should be 70psi+) pull it over 5-6 pulls more and expect a reading of 150-175psi on a decent saw. Lower than 150 and it isn't too good. On saws that haven't been used for a long time, the fuel in the bore can evaporate leaving a coating of oil that can create a better seal and more compression than the saw will normally have. A saw that has been apart and is dry, will drop compression from not having fuel oil mix around the rings. A saw that is hot will make around -20psi than a cold one! Lastly, make sure the gauge has a schrader valve in the brass union and is a very light pressure one as many cheap gauges are for cars and a small engine won't open the valve in these gauges enough.
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That rod looks like it has seen some heat. How did the previous cylinder and piston look? I reckon the big end was starting to spit its white metal cage out and it took the first cylinder out. I once had a 346 in like that with ....3 buggered cylinders and a buggered big end no one had noticed before it hit me. I am still am not sure about the cylinder as those big scores that look like this one can hemorrhage compression as it leaves a significant ring to cylinder gap in one area but would lightly hone it and give it a go as you have nothing to lose. You should have over 150psi compression and a saw difficult to pull over with the decomp valve pulled out. If you don't, it may get better with use but it may well cause an issue.
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Let us know how it goes, what you do and if it works or could have been done better.
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Looks like mycelium to me. Those dark green bits of grass will have a lot of organic matter in the soil, this goes white with the mycelium fungus, the soil stops taking in moisture and the grass dies. The only way of getting rid of it is to dig it out and replace the soil/grass. Try cutting in to the soil and see if it is white 1-3" down.
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I would also say that the first top end probably died after what I assume to be a big end failure and "the shop" just fitted a new top end without recognizing what had failed!
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Looks like it has pushed a smooth groove in to the cylinder. It may kill the compression if deep enough but it may be fine. Only way to tell is to get it back together again, do all the relevant checks and set up and see how it runs. Less likely to impact a big engine than a small one.
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Looks like the OP has pissed off in to the sunset!
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Yes but the OP said the chain stops rotating. Flywheel clag will just make the idle die in my experience!
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Sounds like the bar tip sprocket is failing or has been damaged. Best fit a new bar and chain and try that. Not sure what the "clogging up" bit is! I take it the oiler is functioning OK? Point the bar tip at a piece of clean wood and rev flat out, it should leave a line of fresh oil in 2-3 seconds.
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I have employed hundreds of workers over 20 years in manufacturing. I learnt to bin off young unreliable workers that typically lived with mum and dad, got pissed up at the weekend and didn't give a toss about the business. If a strong man to man chat has no effect then working bloody hard for a few weeks knowing you are by yourself or with a smaller team is often more palatable than putting trust in a time waster. My advice is to always have a few likely employees you keep in touch with so if your guy starts letting you down, you can bin them off and move on fast. On the other side, if you get a good one, spend time with them, give them bonuses for ideas, hard work, finishing jobs well, clean and early as employment cuts both ways!
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503 21 74-25 is the correct part no!
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Glad it worked out and looks like a fixed saw.
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Just caught up on this. The seals you use with the machine assembled are softer and will push passed the lipped surround. I had this on a 039 I believe, similar thing with two sets of seals for assembled or unassembled engines.
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Saws wanted pioneer p62,p61/Super pro125, 850 pro Mac
spudulike replied to BigBadger94's topic in Chainsaws
Was it just the 850 McCulloch you wanted? I have a 1-40 80cc and a later 100cc saw something like 595 but can't remember the model type. Both run and are in good nick. I may be parted from one or both but expect a good price for them otherwise I will keep them. PM me if interested!- 7 replies
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- chainsaws.
- vintage chainsaws
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Here you go......
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Those double glazed panes are relatively easy to replace. On the inside or the outside, there will be a slight gap where the angled plastic beading meets the flat part of the frame. This means that this is the side the beading is removable. The professionals use something that looks like a pizza slicer, the less initiated use a big wood chisel to prise the beading out from the middle of the window and then do the same with all the beading. Measure the glazing whilst a partner holds the pane in place, replace the beading, order a glazed unit (remember the thickness of the glazed pane), repeat and fit the new pane....or get a glazier in. How do I know...I fitted all the windows in my house....saved a few bucks. Other than that, Nepia and Joe have it pretty much bob on. Look at Rightmove and see what looks good to you and replicate it. Most prospective purchasers will notice all the stuff that needs doing and will get to the tipping point where they smile and run in to the distance!!
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It should have come in the factory plastic bag with the company "H" logo all over it and have the white sticky label with the part code and bar code on it. I have never seen a new sprocket look like that before.
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Know what you mean, the courgettes have been re potted twice but the tomatoes - got my first truss forming and the plants are only 6" tall..hopefully it will warm up soon and get some growth and the courgettes out in the garden at long last!
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Unusual then, they are normally pretty stable!
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It was around 25 years ago and the fella at Plumb Centre said.....this is what you need......did it work....er...yes it did just fine. I think I was pre Google at that time!!!
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Probably a Walbro carb taken off, poor idle stability, revs picking up on idle and then dying, bogging but runs OK flat out but can scream are usual symptoms.
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Well I am not planning on doing any more, not cost effective.....all my kit is tweaked one way or another, just the way it is!
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I had the same in my previous house, 3/4" and only had 22mm pipe. The normal fix is something called Plumbers Mait and a 3/4" compression fitting and use lots of force to do it up......sealed up in my case and terminated in a fully metric new bathroom!! Plumbing is OK, the biggest issue is getting to pipes and fittings in restricted spaces.
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BG85 is different than the BG86, the 85 is non strato and the 86 most definitely is! The BG86 needs a lot more warming up and when warm, I wind the H screw all the way out till is starts lowering in revs then wind it back in to peak revs then out around 1/4 turn to fatten up the fuel a little. This way you get the unit revving as it should....the L screw can be a bit hit and miss but you basically tune it so you get a good pickup. My BG85.......well I modified it a bit and it pulls higher revs much better and works well. The carb can be a bit iffy but mostly due to the primer check valves which can get stuck. Not a bad blower but I got mine for £25
