spudulike

As ADW says, those fault codes are for people without lack of imagination and are generally pretty misleading and the Jet codes are what the AT unit works out the machine needs and it is this info that anyone with half a brain diagnoses. If they are running lean - expect a blocked air filter, rich may be a blocked gauze strainer or bad pump diaphragm or air leak. If you are checking yourself, check the gauze strainer and the pump diaphragm pump flaps. The strainer may be full of fine wood chip or the pump flaps may be perforated on impact with the holes they block.

That Fixed it: -

L&S Engineering - they are a Makita parts stockist and are one of the best.

The difference in smell between smoke and the smell of a chimney stack is completely different. The smoke smells like woody smoke (unless burning coal) and the smell of a chimney stack is more clawing, acrid smell like damp, claggy carbon from when you clean your chimney - not like smoke at all. It is amazing the pull on air from a stove. If I have been cleaning stuff in the garage, the stove pulls that much air you get a paraffin type smell in the room with the fire in it and ventilation fans can easily pull down the smell of the stack in to the room as has previously been mentioned.

That's a bit high brow for on here, The Nutcracker is pretty easy on the ear and a typical Christmas affair. Mozart is a good call if you get in to the classics - The Requiem and Marriage of Figaro if you like a bit of Opera!

That's OK, I think you got away with it!

Most of the poor running ones I have had in have had the carbs "adjusted" and this has fooked up the running. This one sounds a bit lean on the L screw...often adjusted that way to meet emission laws.

I didn't like to say

I have only known a machine to backfire when a coil has failed, incorrect coil/flywheel has been used or the flywheel key has failed. The only exception is the 372XPT and Echo CT2511 where I reckon the ignition retardation on the coil starting circuit was a tad too much causing a backfire on startup but disappears once running!

And the last post is why most fail as it is no where near 1&1 turns that is generally normal and in my opinion, the average guy doesn't have much of a clue as to how to adjust a carb correctly.

It is down to the manufacturer, if it is a top end manufacturer wanting goods created to the top spec and the money is right, the Chinese Manufacturers will of course create a good quality product and within spec. The issues arrive when a £10 carb replaces an OEM £110 carb that has a few more built in devices to ensure correct running. Sometimes it can work and sometimes it doesn't. I have found good and bad on MS200Ts and most MS660s have suffered poor idle. Just the way it is. You DO get what you pay for...although the egg topper I got whacks the top off a boild egg perfectly for £4.50 but that is another story!!

They usually run badly when the uninitiated adjust the carb not knowing what they are doing. Just set it back to factory and adjust from that point. I take it the air filter is nice and clean

I wonder what happened!

The screw isn't an issue but don't think I have a gasket kicking around. I just stock parts that allow me to finish jobs in one hit rather than having to dismantle, order parts, store the machine and then fix when the parts come in. I prefer to sort the machine in one hit, easier for me and the customer.

Have you been doing those crossword thingys again Or was it a new key word in a powerpoint, bit like "synergy and holistic" were back in the day!! I would agree with giving the carb a wake up call on the H&L screw, it may be an easy fix and if not....back to the hard way.

I rarely use it but Walbro do this gauge: -

Some businesses work out what parts are regularly used and then buy in "STOCK" so they can fix customers saws quickly so they are not inconvenienced. You don't obviously hold stock of very expensive items or ones you use once every three years but I can be sure a MS201 handle, a MS200 chain catcher, MS261 bearing, a Zama C1Q carb kit may be used in the next week or two Not rocket science and a good supplier allows me to get six trimmers in on Tuesday and be invoicing for a full service and new blades for all of them by Saturday....what a life It is just annoying when customers supply a load of parts that they don't actually need, that I have in stock and it makes it look like they don't trust me not to rip them off!!

The idling and revving up then dying - what happens is you start the machine on choke, this fills the metering section of the carb with fuel. As the saw idles, it empties this part of the carb of fuel and what should happen is the diaphragm pushes against the metering arm opening the needle valve and another slug of fuel enters the metering section and shuts off as the diaphragm comes away from the metering arm. What your Stihl is doing is using the first slug of fuel and then it basically runs out of fuel as no more is coming through and that is why it exhibits the same symptoms of running out of fuel. The Stihl needs the metering arm height checked and perhaps a new diaphragm in the carb. I have come across the same thing in BG86 blowers, exactly the same symptoms. Whilst you are in there, check the positioning of the metering arm spring and that the needle is moving freely up and down. Why the new fuel should cause this....no idea as I don't know the history but your issues with the Stihl are exactly as I have said! You could check the metering arm height and see if you can get it to work just by doing that if the diaphragm is relatively soft and hasn't hardened. If I get a machine like yours in, I just work through the carb and if a going through doesn't sort it, I fit a new kit. If you want to prove it, let the saw run and then stop then strip the carb, the metering section will be dry and there will be fuel in the pumping section!

So, the saws are idling OK so the idle circuit is providing enough fuel for idle but not mid to high speed running. The first checks would be fuel filter and gauze strainer - on the latter, I don't mean look at it, I mean take it out and view it against a bright light with a magnifying glass! On from that.... Holed fuel line, blocked tank breather, holed pump diaphragm flaps, hardened metering diaphragm, dirt in the metering section of the carb, metering arm set too low, dirt under the welch plug (very uncommon), faulty accelerator pump (If fitted), blocked high speed check valve, blocked air filter, faulty choke flap, faulty ignition timing ramp on the coil, arcing on the HT lead/plug......and so on. Highly unlikely that two machines would suddenly develop the same issue with many of the above causes. Have you tried opening up the high speed screw on the carb?

There do appear to be two types of crankcase that may be for the two different types of coil. If the OP can give us a serial number, I can tell what flywheel and coil he should have! I still don't get this air filter on....backfires and air filter off.....runs fine thing I think I would start it with the filter off and then put it on with the engine running....all seems a bit weird!!

Yes, ADW means the crankshaft seal or radial seal and it is pushed in to the actual bearing - it is a sod even with the factory tools and requires a real knack and isn't helped that they are dam expensive. The manifold - The yellow mark is where they typically split and it is often very hard to see. If the saw has been stripped in the past, the whole impulse doofa may be deformed where someone has located the manifold incorrectly or you could say....hasn't got a clue!! If you are purchasing parts to give to me when you run the saw in....don't as I have them all in stock and charge what you are likely to purchase them for!

Is that 100% as I think the 660 has three mounting holes but both the earlier three hole and later two hole coils fit. Just trying to totally discount the mix of parts scenario!

The stihl vents are one way and only let air in so high pressure on the tank through heat may cause the metering needle to leak if the spring is weak. Not sure if the vents on Makitas are similar, don't do enough!

My thoughts in asking this question was that if the piston skirt on the inlet side is badly worn, it won't seal the inlet port and you will get significant "free-porting" where the fuel vapour isn't controlled within the crankcase and cylinder but is pushed back out of the carb hence watching it without the filter and blipping the throttle and watching for puffs of vapour from the carb. How this impacts on the engine may be dictated if the air filter is fitted or not but from my experience, you just get a poor pickup and unstable idle and have never had backfiring from it but can't understand how fitting an air filter will change the running that dramatically unless it is completely blocked. Fitting an air filter will drop the revs and from ADWs thoughts, it should be less likely to hit a rev limiter or governor etc Any back firing I have ever had has been caused by ignition/flywheel issues causing a shift in ignition timing. I would check the flywheel part number on the other machine or try the complete coil and flywheel from the other machine and see if it cures the issue.

I have just read the first post....the engine runs 100% fine without an air filter and then backfires with the air filter fitted...is this correct? If it is, when you blip the throttle without the air filter fitted, do you get a puff of fuel vapour emitted from the carb?