spudulike

Like I said in the toxic covid threads, time will tell on this one but the fact Ethanol is Hygroscopic doesn't fill me with confidence that aluminium carb housings will like it or fuel lines and diaphragms will fair any better.

Not me but yes, that will work - the plastic tube affair!

I got a pair of these small Kowa 8X25 bins. Kowa tend to make a lot of high end optics and their spotting scopes are pretty damn good. These budget binoculars impressed from day one, small enough for the pocket, very bright and clear optics and the acid test is the speed you can focus them on to the target. My wife liked them so much, having got through three pairs she disliked or destroyed, she purchased a pair from the guys below:- Kowa 8x25 SV DCF | Buy Online at CleySpy WWW.CLEYSPY.CO.UK The quality Kowa 8x25 SV DCF is available from CleySpy with a wide range of accessories (other filter)- buy online at fantastic prices

I have seen the oil pump come loose in the past. This tends to take out the oil pinion and stop the flow of oil. Worth making sure the oiler is functioning as it should and the locating screws are tight.

The valves usually benefit from a re gap every now and then. Usual sign it needs doing is that the engine feels to have loads of compression as the bad valve adjustment knocks out the automatic decompressor and you can feel it on the starter. A bit of backfiring can also happen! Once the tappets are done, the engine feels like the compression is very low but starting will be easier. If the tappets are bad they can be a pain to start. Holding the throttle fully open on these power heads can make starting easier if it is being reluctant. Other than that, carb accelerator pump if the motor bogs straight off throttle.

You can give L&S a bell, they will put a call in to Newton Aycliffe and supply if it is available in the UK otherwise you will need to purchase separate parts. You can also try Mark Skyland on here if you PM him, see what comes back!

Sounds like a good result and hats off for offering more, it goes a long way and means a lot when someone values your time and effort in fixing something that can't have been easy.

Possibly old engine oil, flush and fill with fresh decent chain oil.

It is the "ICE" signs you see on open stretches of road, I think there is one near Peterborough on the A1m....in the middle of summer it doesn't quite work...but there again, this year

The UK guy has stopped supporting them, a shame as he was a reliable fella, here are the latest contacts, best contact the French fella - Ordering Information for International Customers | Design Technology, Inc., Home of Tiny-Tach TINYTACH.COM Information for Design Technology international orders.

A few winters ago, I was driving through a local village only to see a sign saying "Road Closed, Flooded", I said to Er Indoors..."Bollocks, it can't be that bad"! I ripped along for half a mile and......Forking hell....it was a bloody lake, I thought I had hit Dover and gone off the edge, was that France over the flooding lake I had just driven the company motor in to up to the wheel arches. Reverse doubly quick, keep the revs up, lots of steam...bugger me that was close, red face and follow diversion signs to home!

I tried the rat trap with peanut butter on a bit of crust and it disappeared without setting the trap off so reckon the resident mouse has been nibbling - we see it out in the garden regularly so know we have one but also have a lot of squirrels.

Cucumbers are good, a mouse keeps nibbling the courgettes and they aren't that great, peppers are forming as are the toms but well off eating. Spring onions are fab...loads this year. This weather is crap!

The time has come for me to sell on my two old vintage McCullochs one is a 1-40 80cc as here- http://www.acresinternet.com/cscc.nsf/ed1d619968136da688256af40002b8f7/ede77d0a9e0194cf88256b000069ceaf?OpenDocument This must be around 60 years old and still works....if you know how to start them. The other is a McCulloch 595 and is in fact 103cc circa mid 1960s and has heaps of compression and a roller solid tip bar - very interesting design - I am looking for very sensible offers - Pics below VINTAGE CHAINSAW COLLECTION: MCCULLOCH 595. VINTAGECHAINSAWCOLLECTION.BLOGSPOT.COM MANUFACTURED BY: McCULLOCH MOTORS OF EUROPE, A. SPINOYTRATT.5, MECHELEN, BELGIUM. SERIES OR ASSEMBLY NUMBER: 600110, serial prefix A12...

Not sure what is worse, a dose of the Covid or watching England play!!

I am taking that this machine is perhaps 1-2 years old, on a machine this age, an air leak is very unusual. The unstable idle, first thing I would check when the revs increase and won't go back to the idle first set is that the carb is shutting off as it should. Yo may be releasing the throttle lever but the cable may be routed incorrectly and holding the carb open. I do this by pushing on the arm the cable is connected to so the carb throttle valve is pushed completely shut as you may have some issue with the cable that holds it open. If the revs drop back to normal, you have found your issue. If the revs still race, it may be a lean L screw, sometimes when they are set a bit lean, the idle becomes a bit unstable - manufacturers like them lean as they can certify their equipment as EPA compliant! Much comes back to getting the carb set by someone who knows what they are doing, 1/4 turn out on the L and H screw may sort your issues. A lean L screw will make it more difficult to start, be more unstable on idle and may bog if you give it a fistful of revs from idle. A lean H screw may make the engine falter and bog instead of revving out cleanly. How is your air filter? If it is a bit blocked, this can give some issues. The carb colour can give you some interesting info. If the machine is low hours, it is unlikely to have any serious issues. One KM94 I did had your symptoms and a new fuel filter fixed it after a carb tune did very little!

Probably Stihl Hexagonal screws, just get the correct driver and turn the H screw out 1/4 turn and try that for starters. It often brings the engine to life. I am taking it the unit is faltering flat out and the idle is OK?

Scrub that, wrong part number, you need - 503 59 16-01!

Worth a phone call.... Stop - Genuine Husqvarna Part - 503 99 16-01 | L&S Engineers WWW.LSENGINEERS.CO.UK Stop. Genuine Husqvarna Part. OEM No. 503 99 16-01 Other than that, possibly make one from a round clamp.

They are for trainers when you are wearing shorts......sartorial nightmare!!! It is easy, sandals at home or the beach (no socks), Boat/Deck shoes when out and about - no socks or short ones if you really must!

The best way is to get all that dirt away from the cylinder base with a paint brush, white spirit and a compressor. Remove the muffler and carb, pop the jug off and then seal the manifold on correctly. The IPL shows some sort of square jubilee clip, yours may have some sort of bodged home made affair. A clip like this, if you can get it still will be a couple of quid only. If you are getting a bit of leakage, you could try liquid gasket. The air leak won't stop the machine running unless it is very excessive where it kills primary compression and vacuum in the crankcase.

Stylish eh

Sliders eh...can't say I like them, bit ladish for my liking!! And socks......that is a faux pas! Not even if they have a St George cross on them!!

The carb should have an adjustable H and L screw. I have just looked at the KM91 IPL on the L&S website and it has the three normal screws. The symptoms you have would appear to be lack of fuel. in this instance, if the diaphragms and carb gauze strainer are OK, I would check the fuel line, change the fuel filter and if the same, rev it up, turn the H screw anticlockwise until the engine is stifled and then turn it in again until it nearly cleans up but doesn't scream. Put some pics up, the adjustment screws will probably be tamper proof hex type.

Glad you haven't changed Matt