spudulike

Oh dear...I can tell a few stories but now is probably not the right time!

I think burning it should alleviate the problem!

Looks like there are two types (two and three legged metal laminate) although both will probably work - one on eBay for £20 if yours is bad and I would test as I trust no-one and there are a lot of lazy/misguided repairers out there: - Stihl 026 Chainsaw Coil Pack WWW.EBAY.CO.UK Stihl 026 Chainsaw Coil Pack. Condition is "Used". Dispatched with Royal Mail Signed For® 2nd Class.

My take on it is to purchase a secondhand OEM part, this looks like the same coil housing as found on MS200Ts, but I would try to get a good one off ebay rather than go for a crap Chinese one with the one caveat being if you can't get the OEM one then it may be worth a punt. They are to be found on many saw types so check for this as well - details on the link below. Have you checked the spark...using an old plug with the end electrode gap opened up considerably? Has the HT lead also been checked for continuity? Purchasing a coil is the last thing I do as they are expensive and like to be sure I am 100% right before parting with my/customers money. Had a MS461 like that - corroded HT connector!! Simple check if you have a multimeter - Ohm range and from earth to the plug cap spur connector. Ignition Module for Stihl 026, 044 - 0000 400 1300 | L&S Engineers WWW.LSENGINEERS.CO.UK Ignition module/coil Genuine Stihl Part OEM Part No. 0000 400 1300 Suitable for the following Stihl Machines: 026...

Strange one, is the carb held on with two small nuts on the threaded rods as it should be? I didn't reckon it was this as it would either be clamped or not and the fitting of the air filter wouldn't change that: -

I do understand what you mean, the later MS260 had a compensator carb but this saw may have been upgraded. In my experience, the saw will run pretty much the same with or without the filter - it certainly wont make the revs go mad high or make the machine stall.

Oi....stop this behavior, most of my work comes from aerial damage.

I know...I know but people sometimes get their facts wrong. I always find these saws damn difficult to start without the air filter as the choke is in the air filter and the saw doesn't like to go without it when cold. My thinking the air filter fitting is impacting on the throttle linkage somehow as you said, fitting an air filter shouldn't have this effect - I take it the two carb retaining nuts are fitted between the carb back end and air filter? I added the impulse line as it is the only issue I have had on three consecutive Stihl 026/MS260s so worth a look IMO. Sounds a bit like the guy with the backfiring TS400!!

The most common issue with this saw is the impulse line coming off the union just under where the cylinder meets the crankcase in the gap between the rear of the cylinder and the air box but don't see how this meets your failure description as it usually just makes the idle race and over rev at max revs. Had three in a row just before Christmas!

Oh....take a pic of the saw with the filter on.

When you fit the air filter, do you take the choke OFF and then just slide it on to the two threaded rods? The choke mechanism pushes on to the choke plastic lever and NOT behind it!

About who he works for!!

My thinking is the air filter choke mechanism (it is built in to the air filter) is somehow holding the throttle open when you refit the air filter. You will just have to look at this area and you could fit the air filter slowly and see at what point the revs start racing and what part of the air filter housing is fouling the throttle mechanism.

Are you going to tell him ADW

Only when I am singing along to She was....an "American girl"......good ol Tom Petty

Nothing to do with me and have never worked on Efco saws that I can remember! Not sure why you believed I was linked to this vid?

We have a relatively cheap block set of Sabatier knives. A few words of advice....Diamond sharpening blocks are damn good at getting an easy keen edge. If you sharpen them....let the Mrs know, mine cut her finger down to the bone and ended up splinting and bandaging it........couldn't drive to A&E due to the bottle of vino we had quaffed!! Use plastic or wood chopping boards. If you cut in to ceramic/glass, any knife will go blunt.

Not me, perhaps someone is kidding others they are me! Put a link up.

No idea, never seen one I think you have mixed me up with someone else!

Thank the Lord, I was about to call a Priest for an exorcism Sounds like the saw has given it in and started to work again...Hurrah! That was easy, on with the next one.

A very difficult question as without seeing the machines, you cant really tell if they are knackered or relatively fresh. Not come across the Jonsered but guess it has less value and unless the repair is an hours job, is probably not worth spending time on and parts may be difficult. The 020T - assuming this is the forerunner of the MS200t not the AVT.....parts are cheap and readily available so if it is reasonably fresh (I have seen them believe me) then probably worth doing as the resale value is high. MS201T....if it is flooding, it is probably something simple like a stuck carb needle, resale value is relatively good, parts easy, worth sorting. I only have experience of the 020 and the 201.....the 020 have a good following and are sought after despite the age of the saw. If it has strong compression and the crank bearings are good, it is probably worth doing. You could eBay the lot as single lots and then buy a single saw of choice!

So when are Husqvarna releasing this Dipping Oil? And what is the part number? I reckon a nice bit of artisan bread and this oil may make a nice appetizer!

I know Joe....part of porting is improving the flow through the exhaust but you can't "Port" an exhaust...it is a muffler mod. Porting in my book is widening and shaping ports, piston mods, muffler mods, dropping gaskets, transfer work etc to gain performance. You can change port durations and timing but TBH, you can lose hours chasing your arse every time you have to put the timing wheel on, zero it and take another set of figures down so avoid doing this as you can get some pretty decent gains from just doing the work I do....as you know. I can and have done timing wheel work but it takes much more time and would double my normal rates. Some customers will pay silly money for the last 20% but if I give something like 80% of what is relatively available for a decent price.....it works commercially. A bit like Henry Fords Model T....it isn't a Silver Lady but it gets you from A to B for a reasonable price!

The saw would have had the exhaust modified, a mesh air filter and an ignition advance. The customer would have this on his invoice and I would have charged accordingly for the work carried out including any servicing, cleaning and ancillary parts if missing or damaged. I do this on smaller newer saws as it is usually the most cost effective way of getting a decent amount of gain without ramping costs up. Customers often refer to it as porting as most glaze over if you go in to the technical description of what I get up to but.....unlike what some misguided people think.....I charge for the ACTUAL work done and each customer gets details of what I have done on their invoice....OH....and any expensive parts back that I may have had to replace as I am a bit old school in that respect and think people like to see both the old knackered part, the new part OEM box and a working saw!!

If you shoot carb cleaner down the H screw hole with the two jets covered, you expect a stream of cleaner to come out of the check valve in to the carb venturi /bore big hole in the middle). This test shows you that the check valve does flow fuel in to the carb. The other check valve fault can be that the thing is stuck open. If the check valve is not opening, you will lose all high revs and the saw will die if the throttle is open. (yours looks to be OK) If the check valve is stuck open, the saw will struggle to start, it won't idle but will run flat out but be very lumpy on any other revs. That leaves the accelerator pump. The fault is generally the idle is impossible to set and on idle, the revs will pick up like it is running out of fuel and then just die. Larger saws tend to bog when the throttle is grabbed open so you don't get a nice crisp pickup. Changing them isn't for the uninitiated but is up to you if you are at the stage where you want to or to try a cheapo Chinese carb.