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Spruce Pirate

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About Spruce Pirate

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  • Birthday 03/05/1976

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  1. Is being self-employed not a proper job????
  2. Is it not easier just to get a new clutch? All three springs replaced that way, nice and easy to change. Changing springs always seems to end up with skint knuckles with me.
  3. I did a trial for Forest Machine Magazine with the Milwaukee Impact Wrench and the Forstreich Maschinenbau TR30 wedge last year. Was impressed with it, much better than hammering wedges. Lacks the lift and power of a jack, either a purpose built jack like the Treemans or a home modified job. It's horses for courses, the mechanical wedge is very good, but not the be all and end all of putting trees over, it's not going to replace a jack or winch, but it is going to make your life much easier than hammering wedges. I did try the ratchet type wedge as well, but not very impressed with it. Build quality lower than the Forsteich version and turning the ratchet handle becomes very boring very quickly. I didn't manage to try it in bigger trees, but I think it would struggle to put big spruce on the deck. I might be wrong here, but I think trying to turn a ratchet by hand in bigger timber would be just as much of a pain as wedging it normally. If I've done it right there should be a video of the TR30 trial below. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ZLqxmzD0a5s&list=PLIVu6yRYuJhWApPBp_MYrJwive2wTISCR&index=2
  4. Update on moving the lime. After the advice on here we've made the decision to dig a trench round the tree this year and move it next year. I looked at it with the digger driver and agreed what size of rootball would be movable and we went back and hand dug the trench. Roughly 2' to 3' deep, basically dug down to the water-table. I need to go back down and check the outlet channel is working to prevent build up of water. Any further tips or useful advice very welcome.
  5. I do. Excellent tool for looking at trees. Not so sure about taking a saw to the races...…..
  6. Will do. At least this rain should be softening up the ground, although....., thinking about it, that might not be so good for the digger. As far as avenues go I'm not sure that they have to be one species, there's a stretch of road along from us known as the avenue that has quite a few species in it, oak dominated but also some lime, sycamore and I think a couple of ash. They're not all uniform, but they are all mature in varying forms. It makes quite a nice avenue despite not being completely uniform. I do agree though, that in this particular case the avenue does want to be as uniform as possible. I think youth makes it more desirable that it is uniform, whereas we're more forgiving of mature trees. Younger trees in mix with more mature trees are another matter. You need a pretty big gap to fit a young tree in if it's surrounded by mature trees, which generally means you've got an avenue with big holes in it. Putting a young tree in now means that said big hole might have filled up in 50 years time, certainly in 100 years time, so I wouldn't be totally against "gapping up" an avenue with young stock. I've heard of people planting a new avenue 50' wider than an existing avenue on both sides, giving an overall increase in width of around 100', the idea being that this will be well established when the existing avenue is past it's best and dies off that the new one will be properly established, just wider. Presumably this could work in reverse as well, planting a narrower avenue the next time around.
  7. You can still swear at them, but I don't miss the sweating part when you've got a machine to do it for you.
  8. They're questioning whether PPE is an allowable expense? I'm including waterproofs as PPE - when working outside you need to be protected from the elements. I've had three different accountants (died, retired, current) and none have even thought of questioning this. To my mind any and all work clothing is an allowable expense and the accountants have always backed this up. The rest of your queries seem reasonable to me, but I've no direct experience of them, and I'm not an accountant. I might think of looking for another accountant if I were you.
  9. Yes, everyone who has suggested planting a new tree is right. It would be cheaper. It would be easier. Point is the Laird wants the one they've got moving, so the one they've got is going to move. Estates are like that. Besides there's more fun in trying to move the tree than just popping town to the nursery and sticking a new on in. I'll base my digging on a 1.8m radius to start off with and see how it goes. I think we'll probably end up with a smaller root ball to make it liftable, but seems sensible to start off big when seeing how far the roots actually spread. All my hi-vis jacket are dirty, this might explain why I've never made it into management. This is very encouraging, as despite all the good intentions of hand digging and figuring out how it should be done, I have a feeling it may come down to what becomes practical to do on the day.
  10. Enjoyed that. Logbullet looks as thought it beats the Hell out of a breaking bar getting spruce thinnings down!
  11. 1m in diameter? This seems quite small for a tree this size, I was assuming it to be nearer 2m diameter. Buying in isn't an option I think as the laird fancies the idea of moving the one they've got. I'll do a bit of exploring, I expect the soil to be heavy, clingy and wet. I'll do some spade work, or see if I can persuade someone else to do some spade work while I "supervise". Tree spade isn't in the budget I think (I'm only guessing as I don't know how much a tree spade costs), a quick Google doesn't come up with anyone local that might do it, I think Ruskins do national coverage but not sure. I'd agree a spade would be the best option but I think yokel power will be the actual solution somehow. Whereabouts are you? Do you hire out the frame? Many thanks for all the advice, I'll do a bit of digging with the spade and see how it looks for starters. Any further advice welcome, if I remember I'll take some photo's of the excavations and see what folk think.
  12. I'm looking for advice on moving a lime standard. The tree is a common lime, I believe, approximately 20 years old, I think about 18 from memory, but say 17 - 20. It is about 13' tall and about 15cm dbh. The local estate planted a lime avenue in 2000 which has done fairly well but a couple of trees have failed over the years. Several replacement trees were got and put in in subsequent years and this is the last one which they have decided now to move to replace one of the trees which isn't doing quite so well. We replaced some a number of years ago (at least 10 years ago) but at the time the replacements were much smaller and I've never done one quite this big before. Access to machinery and trailers isn't a problem, what I really want to know is how big a root ball we should be leaving. I'm guessing as big as possible. Any advice on lifting the tree, wrapping roots or anything else much appreciated. The tree only has to move a couple of hundred meters, all on estate roads so no need to secure it to a lorry, worry about low bridges or anything like that. Photo's of tree to be moved in it's current position should be attached below.
  13. If there's enough to make it worthwhile that's fine, and probably what would happen. Most of the time we fell downhill whenever possible, but sometimes you get a steep wee snap that simply won't reach the bottom of the hill and the only option is to fell uphill. Unless the volume of timber is there to justify bringing a skyline or a winch in the easiest thing is to fell uphill - and take care. Provided you know what you're doing the risks are manageable in my opinion, but you definitely need to be paying attention and it's not a job for someone straight off a chainsaw training course. Skylining, or other means of winching are also not without risk so it is a balancing act between putting a few trees uphill with the risk there, or setting up a winch with its associated risks. For relatively small amounts I'd just tip them up the hill and run every time.
  14. What you can do sometimes is get the harvester to hold the tree while you take the hinge off. Only works sometimes if the tree is lying right. It can save the tree taking off, but won't help to stop it springing. Sometimes it could make the butt spring worse.


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