spudulike

You can try the ole redneck..pull the saw over whilst holding the throttle fully open...just be careful. Stubbys heating the plug is an old timers hack as they are called now and it works. You really need to see if fuel is getting through the carb by checking the plug and seeing if it is damp. If it is then you may have flooded it so turn it upside down and pull it over hard, heat the plug and then the red neck. It is possible that the oil if now blocking the carb, this will mean the plug will be dry or the carb needle will be held open and you will get excessive flooding. Just need to see if you have fuel and where. If nothing else works, strip the carb and flush it out then try again. You can tell what a carb is doing by seeing where the carb is lacking fuel...pump section and metering section should be full of fuel. If the metering section is dry, the needle is holding the fuel back or the gauze strainer is blocked. If there is no fuel in the pump section, the blockage is in the fuel line or filter.

It does look that way. A photo of the components may help but I would think the shaft would be 20mm and the blade would be a clearance fit on to the shaft and the bolt and washer will clamp it tightly in position. It is possible it wasn't assembled correctly and it has worn the shaft down but a 20mm blade hole on a 10mm shaft just won't work, it would be out of balance, vibrate like hell and eventually come apart.

Looks like a M10 bolt....you are measuring the outside thread on the bolt and the peaks of the thread on the hole...in other words, the thread is 0.8mm deep! The other bit is the pitch of the thread per mm - measure 10 threads and divide by 10 which gives you the pitch of the thread.....typically bolts and screws will be listed as M**X** so you may have something like M10x1.25 so 10 threads will measure 12.5mm of bolt length...1 thread = 1.25mm. M10 is typically 1.5 or 1.25 thread pitch....purchase and make sure the replacement is an easy fit in to the hole...don't force it. You also need the length of the threaded part of the bolt unless you hack saw and reform the end of a longer bolt. So in short.....M10 (diameter)....X Pitch of thread.....followed by length of the bolt! Was this what you wanted??????

Probably a cock up and is a single file price. It will be interesting to see what arrives. L&S did the same on a multi pack of Oregon rims sending out a ten pack on what should have been the price for one....they have changed it now

I think most of this vid will go over peoples heads but from what I can see, the unburnt fuel on the scavenging of the combustion chamber that typically is blown out of the exhaust on non strato saws (why two strokes are dirty) enters a sealed tube along with the exhaust, and the back pressure allows this to blow back in to the combustion chamber and then only the burnt exhaust gasses enters the muffler as the piston seals the exhaust port after the unburnt scavenging fuel vapour is pumped back in to the engine. A bit similar to a tuned expansion pipe using the exhaust shock wave to pop the unburnt fuel in to the engine or the way strato engines work. Interesting stuff if you can understand how two strokes function....not sure many do TBH!

Nice pleasant post from what I'm guessing is a nice pleasant man. I got to know Matt pretty well over the years when we were living in villages a couple of miles apart and he is indeed a decent bloke...sure he doesn't suffer fools gladly but is one of the few to bung a few extra ££ on the bill if I had gone the extra mile to get his kit working...that says a bit in my book! It is easy to think you know someone on this forum and get the wrong impression without meeting them face to face!

Sad but have come to the same conclusion! I think we will see much more of this as time goes on.

This may help, it has a plastic handle rather than the earlier metal one you have but the components are the same: - http://bepps.mrwebit.se/spraengskisser/JIPL1987_I8700004.pdf

The Chinky ones are never the same!

Oh....I also like to keep the manufacturers on their toes...sort of lets them know that some see what others are totally unaware of

My thinking is that if the thread went on a normal formed plug thread, you can helicoil it. If this failed, you can't helicoil it and are forced to use an insert of some type which is far more difficult. It would have been nice to know before purchasing or had a discount in price to reflect the issue but I just, as usual, noticed this on a customers machine and realized the spare I hold was exactly the same! Not quite what I expected. Better than sticking in the landfill but would have been nice to know!

Has anyone else purchased a new OEM Stihl MS200t cylinder recently (last 2 months) only to see it have been repaired by I assume..Stihl? I have seen two of these cylinders, one on a customers machine, one I had on the shelf, come in with a helicoiled plug hole. All I can think is that Stihl had an issue with the CNC plug hole tap, perhaps it got chipped, and this damaged a load of cylinders that they then salvaged by helicoiling them. Never seen it before and the next one I have just purchased came in exactly as it should be. I guess they cocked a load up and thought "fixing" them was better than dumping them. Whilst I agree with the sentiment, I don't like new parts being repaired without some compromise offered.

I think it was a pun...a bit dry but funny all the same....be thankful it wasn't fish related!

I do find Syrup Pudding and Custard retains heat very well..may be the way forward!

Even better, Just experiment and see how it goes.

That's right, you need a thermal conductor between the fire and the bricks. Water would do it but may corrode over a while. Sand may work and would be less messy. You should be able to find someone ripping storage heaters out of somewhere!

Firebricks.....what about old storage heater bricks....they are there to store heat and emit it over a long period!

I would guess the tank is copper from the blue/green colour!

Looks pretty simple one to me.....my skip arrives Friday and 20 years of collecting "that useful piece of...." goes. Mine is much worse than that....I generally can't see my floor on a busy week

Just don't use the decomp. The type fitted lower the compression to the point that the saw tends not to start too easily. You could fit the type on the later model 346, it should have a smaller vent hole!

It may have just been flooded and the time it was stood, allowed the cylinder to dry out but glad it is running again. always good when a saw fires up again like that.

So...if the air filter is blocked, any saw will run rich as you are shutting off air and putting more of a pull on the carb high speed check valve as you do on a half or full choke setting. On the AT saw, it recognizes that the engine is over fuelling so it leans down the amount of fuel going to the engine. If you look at the AT jet figures you can clearly see that the H jet will be running lean to compensate for the blocked air filter. That is the point I was making after ADW mentioned that the AT fault codes are a bit iffy and the thing to look at is the H&L jet figures on the AT print out. If a non AT saw had a blocked air filter and you did a Tach tune, you would lean down the saw in the same way but you would then cock the setting up when you cleaned the air filter. The AT unit will richen the fuel if an air leak is present.....those jet figures are about the only interesting thing on the print out TBH!

That's because I am right!!!

Why?? If the air filter is blocked, the AT will LEAN the mix as the blocked filter is over fueling, if the gauze strainer is blocked or the pump diaphragm is shagged, the AT will richen the mixture due to the system not delivering enough fuel!!! If you look at the AT jet settings....you would come to the same conclusion....wouldn't you???

If you can't fit a finger in the crack then it really isn't subsidence IMO!!