spudulike
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Everything posted by spudulike
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Chainsaws, and problems with worth saving?
spudulike replied to Tree monkey 1682's topic in Chainsaws
Not me, perhaps someone is kidding others they are me! Put a link up. -
Chainsaws, and problems with worth saving?
spudulike replied to Tree monkey 1682's topic in Chainsaws
No idea, never seen one I think you have mixed me up with someone else! -
Thank the Lord, I was about to call a Priest for an exorcism Sounds like the saw has given it in and started to work again...Hurrah! That was easy, on with the next one.
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Chainsaws, and problems with worth saving?
spudulike replied to Tree monkey 1682's topic in Chainsaws
A very difficult question as without seeing the machines, you cant really tell if they are knackered or relatively fresh. Not come across the Jonsered but guess it has less value and unless the repair is an hours job, is probably not worth spending time on and parts may be difficult. The 020T - assuming this is the forerunner of the MS200t not the AVT.....parts are cheap and readily available so if it is reasonably fresh (I have seen them believe me) then probably worth doing as the resale value is high. MS201T....if it is flooding, it is probably something simple like a stuck carb needle, resale value is relatively good, parts easy, worth sorting. I only have experience of the 020 and the 201.....the 020 have a good following and are sought after despite the age of the saw. If it has strong compression and the crank bearings are good, it is probably worth doing. You could eBay the lot as single lots and then buy a single saw of choice! -
So when are Husqvarna releasing this Dipping Oil? And what is the part number? I reckon a nice bit of artisan bread and this oil may make a nice appetizer!
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I know Joe....part of porting is improving the flow through the exhaust but you can't "Port" an exhaust...it is a muffler mod. Porting in my book is widening and shaping ports, piston mods, muffler mods, dropping gaskets, transfer work etc to gain performance. You can change port durations and timing but TBH, you can lose hours chasing your arse every time you have to put the timing wheel on, zero it and take another set of figures down so avoid doing this as you can get some pretty decent gains from just doing the work I do....as you know. I can and have done timing wheel work but it takes much more time and would double my normal rates. Some customers will pay silly money for the last 20% but if I give something like 80% of what is relatively available for a decent price.....it works commercially. A bit like Henry Fords Model T....it isn't a Silver Lady but it gets you from A to B for a reasonable price!
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The saw would have had the exhaust modified, a mesh air filter and an ignition advance. The customer would have this on his invoice and I would have charged accordingly for the work carried out including any servicing, cleaning and ancillary parts if missing or damaged. I do this on smaller newer saws as it is usually the most cost effective way of getting a decent amount of gain without ramping costs up. Customers often refer to it as porting as most glaze over if you go in to the technical description of what I get up to but.....unlike what some misguided people think.....I charge for the ACTUAL work done and each customer gets details of what I have done on their invoice....OH....and any expensive parts back that I may have had to replace as I am a bit old school in that respect and think people like to see both the old knackered part, the new part OEM box and a working saw!!
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If you shoot carb cleaner down the H screw hole with the two jets covered, you expect a stream of cleaner to come out of the check valve in to the carb venturi /bore big hole in the middle). This test shows you that the check valve does flow fuel in to the carb. The other check valve fault can be that the thing is stuck open. If the check valve is not opening, you will lose all high revs and the saw will die if the throttle is open. (yours looks to be OK) If the check valve is stuck open, the saw will struggle to start, it won't idle but will run flat out but be very lumpy on any other revs. That leaves the accelerator pump. The fault is generally the idle is impossible to set and on idle, the revs will pick up like it is running out of fuel and then just die. Larger saws tend to bog when the throttle is grabbed open so you don't get a nice crisp pickup. Changing them isn't for the uninitiated but is up to you if you are at the stage where you want to or to try a cheapo Chinese carb.
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I have changed numerous check valves on MS200t C1Q carbs using the technique above. It isn't for the uninitiated but is dooable. I am not convinced (but is possible) that this is the issue and would get some carb cleaner through it and see if the cleaner sprays out of the valve. If it does, it is most likely OK.
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One tip for reflux is to chew chewing gum after a meal that may induce it. The chewing gum keeps the digestive juices going and it goes away. It may work for you.....it does for me if I feel it coming on ......not that I suffer badly from it!
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DO NOT REMOVE THE WELCH PLUG....YOU WILL NEVER RESEAL IT PROPERLY...... The blue is the check valve and can often be pressed out in to the carb choke. I have never seen a welch plug covering one and I think what you are seeing is the backside of the valve. The removed jet is a simple two way jet and has no one way valve in it. If you blast carb cleaner down the H screw hole with the red and green holes covered, you should get a good spray from the check valve in to the carb choke. The machine idles...the welch plug and the void underneath must be clean and doesn't effect the high speed at all.
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OK, the fact the thing works and revs out by reducing the air in to the engine which I guess is under no load suggests not enough fuel is getting through at high revs. I also guess if you put the saw in to wood with the strato blocked, there would be no power. SO......you are lacking fuel.....if you turn the L screw out more than you normally would...does it rev out better? This is sounding like your check valve is stuck shut and you are getting no fuel through.....you need to pull the H screw out and spray some carb cleaner down it and see if you get a good spray out of the check valve - easy enough to see.
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You could list a photo. It may help us see what you are dealing with....or confuse us more!
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What happens if you unwind the H screw more and more? Does the saw ever do what it should and the revs die back and go flubby as the engine gets saturated in fuel? Did you check the gauze strainer? They often look good but when you take them out and look at them under a magnifying glass and a backlight, they are blocked.....had MattyFs MS200 in for repair around three times until I found that and learnt that lesson many years ago! Did you lift the metering arm a bit? The primers usually have a bit of air in them from my experience. Are you sure you got the pipes on the correct way round?
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Been looking at that IPL and it looks like the fuel lines push through a large grommet, I am thinking that once the carb is off, that grommet will be under it or there will be a removable plate under the carb as on many Husqvarnas and that should give you access to the fuel line. I can't see a removable plate but I can't see anyone would have to remove the fuel tank/rear handle assembly to change a fuel line. The primer should connect to the carb on one line and the other one just pushes through the grommet to return the fuel to the tank.
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Tiny Tach TT20K...takes a PP3 9v battery so can be changed, works on induction so no wires to connect, fast refresh, comes with a protective rubber sleeve plus wires to clamp the HT lead but haven't needed them in 10 years. Used pretty much daily and are good bits of kit.......and large display....no need to use glasses or a magnifying glass.
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Now you have finished it, I believe you can visit the Queen Nice job BTW!
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You don't need to split any machine I have come across to remove the fuel line. Typically clean the carb area and then remove the carb (if needed) and replacing the line should be relatively easy. The manufacturer usually allows you to change the fuel line without taking the rear handle off.
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No worries, it shouldn't take too long or be that difficult to do.
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That's no good, not local to me.....anyone else?
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I shot three on consecutive days and not seen any more so think I may have done it for this year!
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Very unlikely as you are priming the saw with fuel and the primary compression and vacuum in the crankcase will not effect combustion, it will only effect the amount of air you are drawing through the carb and the pressure up the transfer ports (as pressure and vacuum will leak from the crankcase) and as you have already primed the saw, it should at least fire. A teaspoon of fuel may have just flooded the saw. A burst of brake cleaner, WD40, GT85, carb cleaner etc down the carb with the throttle held open will be more effective.
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I think we have lost the fella.....guess he may have used the Husqvarna dipping oil It is possible he used too much oil around the bore and flooded the saw....easy to do and usually just needs clearing and putting a bit of heat on the plug to help combustion.
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It was the most likely although BMP was pretty accurate in what he said. It sounds like it is fixed now.
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Sweep Stake on When Husqvarna can actually deliver the 592xp Chainsaw
spudulike replied to Jamie Jones's topic in Chainsaws
I jokingly put "Next Christmas" on the poll......seems to be the leading the polls now!! My previous company (non arb) was ridiculously bad at meeting release deadlines...hence the view!!
