spudulike

2511!!

Blimey, things have changed. Congratulations and all that. Hope all is good with you, perhaps we should catch up!

Not what I have found. Most customers report much less warm up period needed from cold as there is with standard, faster spool up and more power. They aren't much louder but depends on what is done.

If your 441 is an Mtronic, just fit the solenoid upgrade kit with the grey solenoid and fuel filter kit. That is most likely to cure the stalling on idle issue. HP super is fine for the saw, Ultra if you want to spend a bit more for a better oil. Red is OK for older non strato saws but stick to semi or fully synthetic with the strato stuff and 4t kit. If the 4t kit is playing up, most common issue is tappet clearance and usually shows as the saw being difficult to pull over or worn accelerator pump showing as poor pick up off idle.

Sometimes saws develop a big issue such as a split impulse, leaking seal or split manifold. Sometimes you get a partial blockage in the carb. Sometimes it is just a poorly adjusted carb. Sometimes it is just a mix up of a few of these things 395 cylinders are pretty strong and can often be cleaned up with acid, abrasives and a light hone. If a decent piston is fitted and the engine pressure tested, the carb serviced, the fuel line/filter checked and the tank breather checked and finally the carb is tuned to ensure the carb stopped the saw over revving. Do these things and you get a saw that is set up correctly and you are an engineer. Do a few of them and you are a gambler!

The outfits that are flexible and do a good mix of commercial and domestic plus a bit of "this and that garden wise" will survive better than the newbies who have only just picked up a bit of easy domestic straight out of the pandemic where everyone had money to spend. We are in for a rough ride and it is time to batten down the hatches!

He smokes kryptonite and wears his undercrackers over his trousers I believe

There is a bloke in Essex that imports them. He asked me about porting them as a bit of an added value sale but I wasn't interested as I have don't have much confidence in aftermarket kit in general apart from getting a low cost "sort of fix" to a broken bit of kit. I have seen too many MS200T manifolds get soft with heat and AV mounts fail after a week to know the OEM parts are best for everyday use!

Don't get hung up on it, basically you are applying a non water based fluid to loosen the dirt so you can then either use air or a degreaser to clean it off. Your stuff will be fine, just use the white spirit and a 1-2" cheap paintbrush to work at any dirt on the body, fins and carb and when it is all loosened up, give it a blast with your cleaner spray to make sure all the crud has gone - a compressor and air gun makes this type of work much much much much easier!!! Strimmer engines tend to not get that dirty - the air filter and carb will tend to though!

How about Ryland Clark and his "Cinch" advert selling something he refers to a "moa"....I think he is referring to the motor car and not a lawn mower....bloody annoying!!

You could pop it out and refit the other way round with a smear of liquid gasket on it. If the saw only leaks when it is running, it must be leaking from after the pump to the bar. Not sure I can come up with any other ideas as to what is causing it. I think I would be using a Mityvac on the oil channel feed hole with the pictured hole blocked to see if it holds pressure. It may be worth replacing that pictured seal...not the crank seal!!!

The "white stuff" is aluminium oxide and isn't bad in any way. The general condition doesn't look bad but just work the white spirit in to any dirt, oil or grease with the brush and then I would usually air jet it off but the solvent should wash any residue off or just use a cloth.

The cap looks OK, as long as it doesn't spark or track down the HT lead, it should be OK as long as the spur connector is attached to the HT lead OK. Some caps have 90 degree lead connectors, some are angled but yours looks like a good fit. Cleaning it up...white spirit, brush and a compressor or white spirit, brush and carb/brake cleaner will do the job but it looks cleaner than most of the kit I get in!!

Take the pump off and check there is a rubber round seal between the pump output and the oil channel input. My money is on it missing, damaged or split. The pump looks too new to be faulty unless it has been damaged somehow. I don't suppose you have had the crank seal changed recently? It needs to be flush otherwise it doesn't allow the pump to sit flat but generally stops the pinion spinning freely. Still a strange one for a fresh looking saw!

If the bar is fully clamped against the bar mount and the bar is correct for the machine, oil can't escape between the bar and the mount. I have seen old pumps leak from where the pump gear shaft enters the pump but that is from wear on the shaft so is unlikely on a near new machine. I guess you could seal the oil channel with a piece of paper/card clamped between the bar and mount to see if you still get oil pissing out. Run the chain semi loose and don't cut wood with it though, just rev it a bit. If it still pisses out, it isn't the mount that is an issue. This one is a bit weird! If this doesn't help, perhaps take the pump off and check for the seals on pump inlet and outlet.

BTW - you do know your bar plate is missing....don't you. This thing....It won't help if it is!! Inner Side Plate 0.9 mm for Stihl MS440, MS460 Chainsaws - 1128 664 1001 | L&S Engineers WWW.LSENGINEERS.CO.UK Inner Side Plate 0.9 mm for Stihl MS440, MS460 Chainsaws Genuine Stihl Part OEM Part No. 1128 664 1001 Suitable for...

Well, the oil is supposed to come out of the oiling channel and would normally go through the oiler hole in the bar and lubricate the chain. If it is leaking out, the bar can't be sealing the oiling channel so the bar is the wrong one, the oiler hole in it is blocked or the bar mount is damaged. With the bar fitted, is it clamped up tightly against the bar mount? The oiler is adjustable but on the 661, it is a two position affair - I found this out on a customers machine where he wanted more oil and there wasn't much I could do to effect this. The oiler does have a sealing ring (part 1122 649 5000) underneath the pump that seals the pump outlet to the oil channel inlet. If this has somehow been left off, oil would piss out from the bottom of the machine. If this is present, you could use some light pressure with a soft rubber tube stuck down the oiler channel feed hole and see if bubbly water bubbles from anywhere on the casting.

One other suggestion, spray WD40 in to the oiling hole to the back of the oiling channel whilst plugging the gap around it. Do this and check for leakage from damage ....it is possible the loose e clip has cracked or damaged something. There is a small rubber sealing ring joining the pump to the oiling channel feed. If this is missing or is damaged, the oil will do what you have .

From what you are describing, the saw only leaks when running so seeing as the bar should seal the oiling channel, as long as the bar oil hole is clear, the oil will be coming from around the bar mount, or from the oil pump gear shaft up to the oil channel. The most logical cause is that the drum coming off caused some damage to the oil channel/pipe between the oiler and the oiling channel. Remove the drum and clutch, check for damage around the oil pump to bar mount as I can't see any damage on the bar mount. I am assuming that the bar is clamped tightly by doing up the bar mount nuts.

Drill and use an easy out or possibly recut the thread if you can get it Bob on central to the broken screw. It is damn difficult to get central do the easy out is possibly the best option. If you run it, the extra heat being dissipated from the leak may seize the engine...it has been known!!

At the prices you mention, you really need to be doing a chain every 10-15 mins, the issue is checking the raker/depth gauges as well as this takes time rather than just giving the cutters a quick tidy up. I guess that most outfits don't do this service as well when sharpening chains. You then have to send back each chain so a minimum order (as Rob suggested) would be good but then that cuts out the domestic market weekend warriors and it takes time to invoice, pack and sort out address labels etc. I very rarely do chain sharpening and then only on request or if the customer is more of a domestic user as they have less of a clue on the angles. I use a cheap grinder but have fitted a speed controller and just pulse the sharpener so little heat builds up so no hardening of the cutter. I personally hate chain sharpening unless it is a "Tickle up" on a well maintained chain. The only way I would make this a business is doing it as a weekend beer funding venture.

These gearboxes are not 100% sealed, the system is a total loss lubrication system and over time, most of the grease will be lost so you need to replace the lost grease. Sure, much of the grease comes out around the drive bearings (ooop the shaft) or out by the blades but, it isn't sealed unlike a car gearbox that should be sealed. Because of this leakage, the gearbox that isn't greased, the grease goes a bit silvery and hard destroying the bearings, gears and rods. Forcing in new grease will force some of the older grease out replacing it with something that will lubricate. I remember talking to a printer service engineer called in to a company I used to work for saying a previous customer he had visited had turned the oiler off on a £1/2m printer as it kept dripping oil all over the floor. The whole Cylinder screen printer had destroyed every bearing in it through loss of lubrication as it had "Total loss lubrication"....it pisses out the bottom and you wipe it up then top up the oil reservoir.....this was one of the best screen printing equipment manufacturers around at the time and was....Swedish!! .........Svecia if you are interested.

Because, those that don't, end up wiping out expensive gears, rods and bearings. I very rarely see a well greased gearbox have issues. The ones that do have very little grease or the grease has gone hard. Of course there is a happy medium but you can't tell how full the box is so generally, once the grease starts seeping out, it is full and will then do the 25hrs until it is next greased. I guess the smartest operators will give the head 2-3 pumps each time the unit is used but that is a rarity from what I have seen. Many miss one of the greasing points on the gearbox and have no idea they should be regularly greasing it.

Can we take it that you aren't that keen on the KM130 then?

It gives different issues on different saws but generally a bad pump gives an idle that just rises in revs or fluctuates and dies without touching anything. Generally it makes the saw impossible to tune in the normal way and a solid idle is never achievable. On some saws and 4T kit, the symptom can be a poor pickup from idle with the engine stumbling if the throttle is cranked open suddenly.