spudulike
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Everything posted by spudulike
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As above, go around the bore as if you abrade up and down in one area, you can create a slight cavity in the bore and get issues with blowby past the ring. Just do it lightly and let the chemical do the heavy lifting.
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Sounds good to me...crack on....
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Right...use battery acid, brick cleaner or a strong alkaline solution to eat the aluminium transfer away. Start with around 180 grit once the acid/alkaline has done its job and then try more chemical as it will oxidise the transfer surface and then you take off the surface to let the chemical work again. Once the bore is pretty clean, roughen up the surface with the wet and dry so the new piston beds in...the 180 or a bit finer will do the job but don't go mad with it. Fit a new piston, OEM Stihl, Meteor and Hyway are best and them Golf and VEC who I suspect are the same Indian manufacturer or take your chances with a no brand type. No need to remove the tank, just remove the cylinder, the inlet manifold bellows should come off with the cylinder and the impulse should be easy to remove and inspect once the cylinder is off. Motomix....fit a new carb kit- I think Stihl used Bing carbs on some models and either Zama or Walbro on later units so ensure you identify carb type before ordering the kit. Rowena are very good but may not take a single order. A new fuel line and filter would make a lot of sense. When it is working again, tune the carb to run rich to protect the saw and avoid any issues
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The intake damage on the piston is often when the build up of transfer on the exhaust side pushes the piston backward and against the inlet port side causing a mini seize. A bad bearing is more likely to scuff the sides of the piston. If the machine is going to get some serious use, you want to learn a bit and are a bit masochistic, fill your boots, otherwise, just check for play like I said. You could pull the clutch side seal to check the cage further but up to you and your ambitions. Splitting and rebuilding a saw is generally a bit beyond most unless you have been around engines a good time.
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I would check the main bearings for play by moving the crank end and flywheel up and down, forward and back and if you can feel no play then carry on I say this as to do the bearing work will require splitters and a 10" G clamp and a good engineering background. There is much that can go wrong and if the bottom end is sound, leave it well alone. Cleaning - I use white spirit, cheap paint brushes and a compressor. The cylinder looks reasonable. Rub those streaks of transfer with wet and dry, apply acid or strong alkali, when it stops bubbling, clean and rub a little more and repeat until no bubbling is present. You then need to rub the cylinder to roughen the bore and so you can't feel any high points on the cylinder surface. A hone does this and is what I use but you can get by with just abrasive paper. How were the manifold and impulse? If you have no pressure/vacuum pump, check the rubber parts and tune the carb a bit rich to ensure the repair lasts.
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Mark is correct on the settings. I have no idea what limiters you removed as I have never seen any. All the saws I have seen have D shaped H&L screw, the early had a Phillips idle screw and the others, a D shaped idle screw. Reset to Marks settings, adjust the idle and it should run OK.
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Smear over the whole surface.
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Yes, simple mod, just seal the mating faces with a suitable liquid gasket.
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Or pressure and vacuum as I like to use!
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Get a Stihl Torx 27 driver - this is the one I use for most work - T27x150mm Torx Driver for Stihl TS400 Disc Cutter- 5910 890 2400 | L&S Engineers WWW.LSENGINEERS.CO.UK T27x150mm Torx Driver for Stihl TS400 Disc Cutter Genuine Stihl Part OEM No. 5910 890 2400 Suitable for the...
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They typically split, just done a Red Eye 066 that had done similar. Best to remove it to inspect it or just replace it as it isn't expensive.
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I didn't like to correct...but...ADW is correct!
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Huh....did someone wake me up I am not doing courier work anymore before you ask, if you can drop a saw in and pick it up, I may do it but have an awful lot going on at the moment...not saw related.
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Not without looking it up. Suzuki and others were chrome plating their GT380/750 etc in the 80S, not sure about saws TBH.
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Why, unless a crank or main bearing has grenaded, there is very little to gain from doing this apart from destroying the machine.
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You my old mucker are a wanker....I made a splitter and also some kindly gent gave me one like in the pic!!
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I would really avoid splitting the cases. It is worth checking there is no play in the crankshaft but if there is, throw the towel in. For simplicity, take the impulse line and carb boot off and check them out carefully. TO fully check them, you need to seal off all the crank openings and check with vacuum and pressure with a Mityvac or similar but they are £60-80 hence my comment. look for damage or splits/holes and replace if found to be faulty. Start with this and as far as the cylinder goes, use acid or strong alkali to shift it....battery acid, brick cleaner or caustic soda/strong oven cleaner can work well! Apply, let is stop fizzing, rub with wet and dry and start again.
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The "A" means it is slightly smaller in bore size, "B" means slightly bigger and was from the days cylinders and pistons were matched.
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The markings on that flat plate are EXACTLY the same as Stihl use on their pistons and some of their cylinders. Aftermarket cylinders very rarely mark their cylinders A or B. The plating may be chrome, more liable to chip but still strong. 80s bikes were Chrome bores hence this view.
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I am sure we can give it a go. Legendary status...I just do my thing, I am not on Facebook so probably miss most of it but just sort out issues and get saws working as they should or better....people are happy...all good!
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Sorry Rat....you are wrong, that is an OEM part. If the OP can learn a bit, the best option is to strip the cylinder off, strip the transferred aluminium from the bore and then hone lightly (or rub the bore with wet and dry) then fit a decent aftermarket piston...Meteor or Hyway are your best bet. Best find out where the crankcase is leaking as well - the impulse line is probably the most likely, seals tend to leak a little with age, you can visually check the boot - someone may have stuck a screwdriver through it or sometimes the clamp splits the boot.
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When you fit the new inlet manifold (Bellows), fit it without the plastic bits on it and make sure the nipple that pushes in to the hole below the inlet port is pushed home nice and snug before the plastic parts are fitted. This is the correct way, pre assembly tends to squash the nipple on fitting and YES STUBBY....I did say NIPPLE Good luck with the clamp - I use a pair of mini plumbers adjustable grips!
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Has that cylinder got anything stamped on that flat near the spark plug and is there any identification near the bottom of the cylinder either side - like Stihl, Mahle, Gilardoni, Tecomec etc? The cylinder looks a bit aftermarket to me. As others have said, the leak may be the impulse line, inlet manifold or crank seals.....depending on your abilities decides the fate of the saw.
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Could be a leaking crank seal The most common issue is a split impulse nipple on the top of the manifold. The second most common is the manifold has been fitted incorrectly and the impulse nipple is distorted, after that, leaking manifold, dodgy crank seal (Although that NEVER happens) and the impulse line between the carb union and cylinder union can come off. My money is on a split manifold or badly fitted one - the former isn't easy to see!!
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Pretty much agree with this, I have seen a few worn crankshafts without these issues.
