spudulike

I would avoid using an unknown seal type as I have seen pistons stuck in the bore and have had to drill them out and pull them out with a screw! The piston spring is a low rate and if the piston is too tight, it will get stuck in one position and makes for poor performance off idle!

Yes of course. If the piston isn't scored or through the plating to the brass body, I only replace the O ring. I checked, the MS200t ones measure up the same.

You may get an older rarely used domestic bargain of ebay, Gumtree or local boot sale etc. I have used mine a handful of times but it is well built from the 1980s and does the job. There must be a few coming up from house garage clearances.

Just checked the parts list on L&S which states both carbs were used so you can purchase either carb or the carb kit for your Walbro carb.

The IPL I have states the carb to be a Tillotson HU-51c. The story is that Tillotson, an Irish company ran out of manufacturing capacity and Walbro/Zama mopped up and took over most of the business so would assume this manufacturing phenomena happened during the production of this machine. Compare both type of carbs for how the throttle and choke rod attach and where the impulse and fuel unions are. If the same then it was a mid production change. Husqvarna swapped from Walbro to Zama on their 357XP, it does happen!

I think you will find it is the same as the MS200T...pretty sure of that!

Fat chance of that in my experience...everyone is Sooooooooooooo busy

Some thick elastic and velcro would make a good strap!

Just use that electricity kit rather than the noisy dirty stuff at the weekend!

You could build a twin cylinder saw...look on the positives!

What I like is the way you scroll through the pedal effects and the way you get LCD screens replicating them. It is a really intuitive bit of kit, you can use up to 6 pedals at one time. The Looper will do 40 seconds or 20 seconds if you want to undo overdubbing but if you are doing a simple drum beat, adding a three chord progression, adding a bass line and then just jamming....it is damn good and the Looper gives you the beat run in for timing. I spend hours learning solos and they sound pretty thin by themselves but if they have a repetitive chord progression and drums backing them, it really fattens up the sound and fills it. Think Sultans of Swing...first guitar solo....the 40 seconds is bob on for the backing chords, stick the chords over the "Hard" drumbeat setting at a BPM that works and off you go.....it all sounds a lot more pro. Got mine off the bay for just over £100 and can recommend it thoroughly.

Probably right but desperate men do desperate things worth trying as if this goes on much longer, it will be like triggers brush!! Did the plug get swapped out? I had an MS200t with a loose centre electrode once and it was a bit like yours. Stick with NGK or Bosch!

But what about the fuel tank breather? If you are sucking out fuel, you need to let air in otherwise the saw exhibits running out of fuel symptoms. It will look like this....pull it off and you should be able to suck air through it relatively easily. If it has sealed up, it needs replacing. Tank Vent for Stihl MS201, MS201C - 0000 350 5802 | L&S Engineers WWW.LSENGINEERS.CO.UK Tank vent Genuine Stihl Part OEM Part No. 0000 350 5802 Suitable for the following Stihl Machines: MS 201, MS 201 C...

All I will add is a bad acoustic will have a high action and will frustrate very quickly. Nylon strings are a lot easier but a lot depends on the music you want to play. I have a semi acoustic in the collection - Ibanez version of the Gibson 335....It wears 10s and plays far easier than many steel strung acoustic guitars playing the same as an electric guitar and will allow for a decent amount of string bending. It is relatively thin so isn't that loud without an amp but may be a good halfway house if learning the guitar or go for a thicker bodied semi for more volume.

I had similar with a 236 today...it had shyte in the gauze strainer plus the fuel tank breather was blocked. Have you tested the breather or just removed it and tried the saw again? Worth a punt if not.

The only thing with Bass is that you don't get the satisfaction of saying to your mates...listen to this and them recognizing the riff unless it is really recognizable...Dancing in the Moonlight for example or Cant Stand Losing You! If you have fat fingers then it would be a good choice, I am always hindered by this but I tweak the guitar nut to give me an extra mm and buy guitars with slightly wider neck which solves much of the problem. This guitar effects unit I have allows you to play Bass on your guitar....The first four strings on a guitar are tuned the same and I have a patch allowing a really convincing Bass sound from a guitar which is good for learning riffs and producing a bass line for a loop. As far as kit - I would avoid spending a fortune but do get reasonable kit not super cheap crap and get it either tested by a decent player or get it set up by a Luthier or someone that knows his onions - probably the best £75 you will spend! Plenty of vids and news of even top guitarists using relatively cheap guitars - Mike Rutherford was playing Squire Bullets during the Pandemic.....you can get "Cheap" playing like expensive relatively easily! A simple drum machine keeps you in time which is also something that can be an interesting concept when starting out! Just set the BPM slow if you can't keep up and learn the technique. Loads of vids on Youtube.....missed all that in the 80s when I was trying to learn!

Interesting stuff, I have come across the string tree issue before and you learn an awful lot just doing and then find out others are making vids but each one gives you a bit more info. I saw one vid of a fella stripping everything off a Les Paul, including the beading, neck (set in) and neck capping.....he was obviously more talented than anything I have done. Lots of heat and then...bingo...amazing.

It looks like it!

Using your blocking the strato - this would richen the mixture so the theory is it is under fuelling so you need to richen the H screw - see what this does. It should make some sort of difference...eventually! If blocking the strato does help it pick up revs, it shouldn't be the HT system as it wouldn't improve if it was. Sounds like we need more fuel then! Worth removing the air filter - it should make it worse!

Interesting, it sounds like it is almost running rich to start with. Have you tried leaning the H screw down? Does this make it worse? Does richening it up make it better or worse? Have you tried removing the air filter? Does it make it...................

I call myself a £200 guitarist....all my guitars have been acquired for £200 or less but don't play like the price tag. Taking a guitar with a bad action and losing the high frets, crowning them, rounding the fret ends etc is part of the game. Latest acquisition was a Zoom G3X foot pedal, the drum machine, Looper and patches have been great fun, makes even my attempts sound almost good! Great bit of kit!

It looks like the scored side will be the inlet side. Better check the air filter as scoring on this side is usually crud getting past the filter. That piston would need the corresponding and correct cylinder to go with it but wouldn't work with your carb, muffler etc.

If you check what I said and it is still no good, try the accelerator pump, it may be that but do the easy stuff first. Make sure the black plastic support ring is still on the manifold side of the carb. People lose them and can't be bothered to replace them!

Possibly a MS201 piston??

The old piston is a normal piston and doesn't look scored and the other piston is a strato one. I don't think the MS210 was ever a strato saw! Check your order with what you have got and you can return to L&S if the parts are unused and in the original packing. I always try to avoid this but have had to on a couple of occasions and it has always been sorted. What part did you order - they have the Stihl IPL (Parts lists) online and is relatively easy to order. Most kits appear to be 40mm!