spudulike

I get most of that sort of stuff from L&S unless you have a decent local business you want to support.

I got a cheap Chinese 24 litre compressor a bit like that SGS one for a bargain £45 delivered. Not sure how it happened but it did and 4 years in, it has been brilliant. A bit noisy but outlasted the Screwfix one that did only 2 years. One thing to remember, big rattle guns need a big feed pipe, the little coily airline pipe won't feed enough air. Apart from that, it will power nail and staple guns, pump up tyres and clean chainsaws via an air line. All arb types should have one!!

On the idle...a little slow perhaps but sounds about right.

It is called "Arbtrader"!

Did you have the chainbrake on in that last vid??? The rim, washer and E clip are missing, I assume you took them off. If the brake was on, re-film it with it off!

Just take the side cover, chain and bar off and see how much wobble there is on the clutch drum.....video it if you like and want an opinion

As per Stubby. This is an early pre Mtronic one and they were very susceptible to clutch bearing, drum and crank wear. Check it out and if bad, check the crank and if this is OK, check out the oiler arm as well as the movement on the drum often wears the end off the arm. Basically, the early ones were a bit of a crock!

Well, you must have had a tool makers background. Ours weren't supposed to use it....but they did anyway!

I got an old Hilka tap and die set probably made around 1970s-80s when the tap and dies were made properly, all split dies and metal box etc. As others have said, in tools like this, you get exactly what you pay for. One option is to look for the specific die you need and purchase one decent quality one....Dormer are very good and also use Vokel for their helicoil sets and they are also very good. The other option, if you want better tools is to purchase a vintage second hand kit like I did Brass can chip a bit but if you stick a good taper on it, the die should grip and start to cut.

Hope it isn't Kings Lynn Hospital....I gather the roof isn't the strongest judging by the amount of acrows holding it up!

L&S generally get "no stock" items in pretty quick if the stock is in the UK!

Blimey, that's a new one on me and I have a set of ten different types of adjuster. You may be able to get a bit of plastic tubing on it to turn it out. I once used the insulator off a crimp electrical connector. The splined adjuster may fit it and that round hole may be just for indication but reckon not. Other than that, you could cut a slot in it with a dremel diamond cut off disk which may be messy unless you can get it out or you could open that little hole out and use the PAC man adjuster as long as the diameter is correct.

If you fit a new piston...fit this one.....pretty much as good as OEM Genuine Meteor Husqvarna 350 Piston Assembly (44mm Dia) WWW.GARDENHIRESPARES.CO.UK Genuine Meteor part suitable for the following makes & models;Husqvarna51, 350, 351Jonsered2054 EPA, 2149, 2150 EPA, CS2150 EPAKit supplied with 44mm piston, ring, gudgeon...

I have looked at this again.... 1) When you rotate the flywheel, there is a noticeable "clunk" every time you move it...any idea what this is? 2) You talk about "Dicking" around with the carb and "That is with the L screw turned anti clockwise been tweeting both screws but can’t get it to idle nice with out bogging "....you got the saw a bit closer but what did you do to get there? What were the settings? If I took one of these saws in good order with a good carb, I could wind the H&L scews clockwise so they were lightly seated and then undo them 1 &1/4 turns and the saw would 100% run OK and all I would need to do is to adjust the idle. If you can't do this, something is wrong. Going back to the saw, if you take the piston off, take the ring off and push it in to the bore so it sits in the first part of the bore in its normal position at the bottom of the stroke, can you get much movement on the piston when rocking it from the exhaust side to the inlet side? You can just measure it with verniers across the skirts but am guessing you don't have any. Personally, I would whip off the upper crankcase alloy casting, clean it and reseal with a LOT of liquid gasket as the lower plastic cases on these machines often leak on this join. Have you inspected the inlet manifold for splits? These often get fitted badly (you must separate the rubber part from the clamp and fit to the cylinder correctly before fitting the clamp and THEN refiting the cylinder. Look for a deformed or split impulse connector as in my image below. The yellow line shows where they often split. Air leaks will cause the racing top end and the bogging but not the over fuelling. The carb you are using looks OEM unless you have swapped the diaphragm cover out. Over fuelling would normally be caused by the H screw being too far out from seated, 2-3 turns or more, or a faulty high speed check valve but this is rare and the machine would tend to rev out OK but idle would be near impossible and it may do what you are getting. If your carb is OEM and BRAND NEW, the check valve is very unlikely to be faulty.

Yup, that is EXACTLY the fault, on the strop it dies and hold the handle vertically or horizontally, it is fine. My fix isn't that "conventional" but it works and never fails to make me chuckle as it is like alchemy when done. Don't get me wrong, I am not gloating, I just sorted a simple fix and you obviously know your stuff from your diagnostics....very much my line of thought on this machine.

The piston has had a light seize that can be seen from the exhaust side. If the cylinder is an original Husqvarna one, I would rub the inner bore with a bit of 400 grit emery and fit a new quality piston but that may be an issue getting hold of one. The bore doesn't look too bad from what I can see. Many of these cheap cylinder kits are a bit suspect Meteor and Hyway are about the best.

You can get a set of carb adjusters which cover most eventualities but would say the splined, D and hex are the most useful and yours looks to be splined or possibly D...I took a close look at your pic but it pixelates and I can't see it clearly enough (second Photo). The second photo is the H screw and is the one you need to adjust for High speed - turn it anticlockwise. The first photo, sometimes but not always, there is a plastic or soft rubber tiny bung in the brass bit and if you prize this out, there will be a screw underneath which is actually the top of the barrel needle and you can richen the low speed running by undoing it a little. The idle speed may be adjusted if the needle is adjusted but it may be fixed on a low cost machine like this. Check out the fuel filter and the fuel lines as they may be shot giving you the issues you have and also the internal gauze strainer could also cause similar issues. I have had machines like this need a slight adjustment but also had the fuel line issues as above on irregular used machines.

Have you got the "D" shaped carb adjuster as these saws have tamper proof adjusters? Check the serial No type when home and lets go from there.

Not being funny but if the H screw is all the way in, you have shut off the high speed check valve and the only other way of getting fuel in to the engine is through the low speed jets and these won't support combustion past 1/3rd throttle. Could the carb casting be cracked? It is also possible you have two carbs with shot high speed check valves but it is extremely rare especially on a new carb. Can you try these carbs on another 350? When you take the choke off, is the choke valve completely horizontal in the carb bore? I have seen some carbs get stuck with the choke in a half closed position causing this sort of issue. One other thing on top of the air leak issues I have already mentioned...the rubber manifolds on these saws, as well as 346, 357 etc are often fitted badly and have a deformed or split impulse connector and will cause over revving. Have you popped the muffler off to check the state of the piston? If it has seized but the ring is free, it is possible the inlet skirt is shot and that is causing free porting. BTW....I trust your comment above isn't being a bit glib....you have the benefit of the machine being in front of you!

What are the exact symptoms Mick? Is your machine one of the early ones with the paper stick on serial LABEL (on the black moulding over the top of the recoil cover) or is this laser etched on to the black moulding. I have come across a fair bit of instability on the early ones and once spent a lost afternoon trying everything to resolve it and I mean "EVERYTHING". I didn't find a specific reason but I did develop a very effective cure that always worked for me. I also found that many users had pissed around with the carb adjustment and basically thought they were were somehow trying to find the magical setting with no basic carb tuning skills. In instances like this, the carb goes straight back to the, slightly strange, factory settings which are 85% of the game of getting these machines running correctly. I won't broadcast my fix....I developed it and spent the time to work it out but PM me if you want some help....free of charge!

From my POV, Mark Skyland is often on this site helping out others with their equipment issues. His helpful posts are always to the point...unlike my often acerbic humour....and think this is probably reflective on Mark, the business and staff. He doesn't push his business on the site but obviously just lets it float....we know where he is if we need him! I have used Skylands for the odd Echo part and they arrive exactly as they should. I would think if there was an issue, it would be dealt with in a positive manner from the fact that he is spending his own time assisting people he doesn't know ....same as I do.....I think that is a sign of the character and person behind the business! I hope you get this sorted and soon.

Never mind, I think we both know we both know our stuff

If it was stuck down, the saw would flood and not start. The fella has "fitted a new carb" so it can't be the carb....unless "New" was in fact "different" or "cheap Chinese poop"! Time will tell.

That's what I said last night! The standard settings are 1 turn out but if they are set to 1 1/4 turns each, the saw should run fine once the idle is adjusted. I have only ever had fuel vapour coming out of the carb when the carb is megga rich or the piston skirt is very worn and the pressure in the lower crankcase freeports past the sealing piston skirt back up the inlet port and out of the carb - that was a ported MS660, ran fine before modding but the squaring of the inlet port caused this issue but a new piston fixed it. It appeared the saw had been used for a lot of milling and the filter was pretty worn causing the original piston skirt to wear.