spudulike

Yes, as above, you can purchase all the bits you need as a kit - Set Fastening Parts for Stihl HL-KM 0-145 Angle Drive - OEM No. 4243 007 1300 | L&S Engineers WWW.LSENGINEERS.CO.UK Set- Fastening Parts Genuine Stihl Part OEM No. 4243 007 1300 (Replaces OEM No.4243 643 0500) Suitable for the Following Application's: HL 91 K, HL 91 KC, HL 92 C, HL 92 KC, HL 94...

Mmmm, that's a strange one.....my thoughts are that something in the gearbox or blades is heating up and binding or the engine is past it and not making enough power to reciprocate the blades. Have you kept the gearbox filled with grease on ALL the greasing points? After using the machine, does any part of the trimmer blade or gearbox feel very hot to the touch? When starting from hot, does the machine start easily and does it feel "punchy" when pulling over? It is probably either the blades seizing (common after a lot of conifer resin build up) or the gearbox has lack of grease and a bearing is getting hot. How did you test the blades are free and when cold, does the machine cut with normal power? We may still have a simple carb issue. When hot, is the machine totally locked up with no blade reciprocation? Can you move the blades at all either by blipping the throttle or manually....with the machine OFF!!!

Free wood...... before getting in to the chainsaw business and knowing a few arb types, I would drag fallen boughs out of country lane ditches - my ethic was not to cross the field boundary but take it from road side - this is the sort of stuff that would fall on the road and be dragged to one side, generally in to a ditch. This was interesting as the farmers would pass and 1) thank me for clearing the ditch and 2) offer me access to a field where they wanted to clear a fallen tree or bough....had a lot of decent Oak that way. One simple thing to oil the process - a pack of beers for their kindness. Always worked for me. The other thing - be neat and never leave a mess after the process.

That reminds me, I was going up the fast lane of the M6 around Stoke a few years back all fairly legal as I could see a cop car around 1/4 mile ahead, I saw in my mirrors a car that had sped right up my jacksy and was pushing to get past, I gave it a short while then pulled over around 100yds away from the cop car, he puts his foot down, speeds past the patrol car but only got the naughty boy wagging of the finger but it made me chuckle....silly sod!

I'm more of a bartering man and have reduced or done servicing of kit for free but let the guys shifting the timber off the van get a drink out of it as well. That way the owner and the lads doing the heavy lifting both benefit. Some Joe on the street perhaps has less to offer and has higher expectations!

Your life sounds a bit like mine, I learnt at 18 that there was no easy ride, 25% of the company I worked for were made redundant so....I worked hard, got in to a position where I was the "go to bloke" and learnt how to be pretty indispensable and guess what, I got more money, more responsibility and introduced solid improvement ideas that increased productivity and lowered scrap year on year. In return, I got decent wage rises, decent pension and working conditions. This and Aesops fable of the grasshopper and the ant has seen me good over the years! I love a good fable!

No GoPro footage otherwise I would have played it back and sent it off but if the cops don't investigate when you lose £10k of tools, I am not sure it would have any effect unless the bozo killed someone just down the road. I just put this up for conversation as I was pretty shocked by this ijut and wondered how others felt.....perhaps some drive after a spliff and it may now make them think twice or am I naive....no need to answer that!

If it is a not a pole trimmer, I am not sure how you know the blades are free unless I guess you push the teeth together and they move. It could be a sheared clutch, if it is, the engine will rev up freely and the blades won't move. It could be the clutch has rusted closed and this would exhibit the same as above. It could be a piece of busted metal/bearing between the gears. It could be a seized or damaged bearing. The above two faults would allow the engine to idle but on revving, the machine will bog down and not pick up. In short, strip the blades off and check they freely reciprocate and then check the gearbox out. Gearbox parts can be very expensive so check them and make sure you find the part that has failed.

Trouble is that they have left it a year late, that unseasoned timber will be ready to burn this time next year unless it is dead wood standing. I really don't get this "Free" thing....just offer a bit of beer money, surely a truck full of green wood will cut up to a few cube and is worth £40 in its green state....that's how my last 8 years have been, that a a good deal on low price servicing for a load of wood.

This bloke tonight...pretty sure it wasn't phone related. I reckon the guy in the van needed clean underwear it was that close!! It was over a distance of a mile or so and was a bit more than a slight lack of concentration.

I have done one but was just a case of stripping and fitting a new one, the one I did needed part of the clamp on the elbow joint. One thing I did have to do was lubricate the blades with something like WD40 as the unit doesn't like the drag from grease and faults out unless the throttle is blipped to get the speed up.

I used to be on the road as a rep covering 25-35k miles a year so have seen a fair few drivers in my time. Those days are now long gone and now do perhaps 10-12k a year. We often travel back from my wife's mums mid evening and tonight around 6.00pm, not that late. What I have noticed is that I am seeing more and more drivers that seem to be under the influence of alcohol or drugs, perhaps both. On one occasion, the guy was doing 50mph southbound on the A1m and this then dropped to 40, then 30 and then a wobble of 1.5 lanes of the carriageway. The next time...yet another going very slowly...45-50mph and no perception on cornering etc. Tonight took the biscuit, A1m, 50mph, dropped to 40, reached our junction and then veered off midway past the junction with no signals, went round the roundabout on the outside to turn right, got to the T junction, pulled out on a van doing around 50 that missed hitting him by a few feet but very close, he then went down a B road going faster than on the A1m.....seemed like he was likely to have a head on just down the road. Not sure what is going on but I tend to keep well away form these dick heads that think it fine to drive like the UK on the roads. I would think the one tonight may be wrapped round a tree or another car a few miles down the road and hope he didn't kill somebody!

All I ever do is find where the shaft stops turning, if at all and once you find where the drive power ends...you see what is knackered. From your description, if the shaft is turning with decent power and you can't stop it by gripping it with cloth, it will be either a worn shaft end (pretty rare) or the trimmer gearbox has gone and the screwdriver check should tell you this.....then it is a strip down if the gearbox has failed. Can't say they are easy to work on but you can fix them! Is this the earlier trimmer head with an alloy body or the white and orange painted one that replaced it?

Take the cutter attachment off, grip the shaft with a cloth and get someone else to rev the machine lightly. What you are doing is making sure the clutch and shaft are OK. Common issues are the clutch shoes rusting and sticking shut....usually after rain and storage. The shaft ends can wear but not very common. Sometimes people don't mesh the shafts correctly on the Kombi units and sometimes the trimmer heads aren't pushed on fully. Inspect the ends of the shaft to make sure they are still well formed and square. The gearbox may have failed but they are usually pretty strong. You can put a flat head screwdriver in to where the square shaft would go and try turning the screwdriver to turn the trimmer so it operates slowly. Mind your fingers, the cutters can be damn sharp!! Report back what you find.

I have a 11' hedge around my garden, I face it twice a year and have worked hard at keeping the depth of the hedge and height down without killing it.....if you go in too deep on Leylandii, it won't come back. I actually climb up each trunk and lop the top off with a silky as it is often easier than getting the ladders out. Those tripod ladders are a superb idea, I invented those whilst wobbling on mine and then found out "they were a thing"!! The dead bits on a top of a Leylandii tree are rock hard and as others have said, not hedge trimmer material, it wont do the gearbox or blades any good and in bad cases, have seen clutches sheared in bad cases!

It is the hunter gather thing in a fella. Most look at it and see a pile of logs. We look at it and see heating for the next winter or two....just a perspective. I guess it is too easy now to twiddle the thermostat and ...bingo...heat. A big pile of stacked logs is a thing of beauty and means heat in the winter...simple.

I would suggest a bit of a payment for a load of wood that I guess you will cut, split and season. I usually bung the lads £20 each and do a bit of free servicing when their kit comes in....sort of goes down well and shows that it isn't a one way flow if you see what I mean. I fully rebuilt a MS200T once for a guy that had all his kit nicked and just charged parts only....he dropped off a big Isuzu dumper truck of wood and we were both happy as Larry....well, I was warm and he continued in business! Just call it bartering, respect, common interest etc!!

This is the breather, it is slightly possible it has been loose for a long time and worn the hole larger...I trust it was an OEM part. Fuel Tank Vent fits Husqvarna 135, K770, K970 Disc Cutters - 501 15 29 01 | L&S Engineers WWW.LSENGINEERS.CO.UK Fuel Tank Vent fits Husqvarna 135, K770, K970 Brushcutters Genuine Husqvarna Part OEM No. 501 15 29 01 Suitable for the Following Applications: 135, K770, K970, K760 CUT-N-BREAK...

That is the later one and should be more stable. I would wind the H screw in and see what I have set it to. If it is near 3 turns, try 2.5 turns out and see if that clears the issue. Make sure you clean all the oil off the air filter with brake cleaner (or similar) and blow through with an air line. The one I had in recently had a bit of oily residue on the air filter closest to the engine and it improved with the air filter cleaned but improved more with leaning off the H screw. Try that - you will need the correct screwdriver. You can check the plug, if it is dark black/brown, it is almost definitely running rich.

I got fed up with losing my reading glasses so....after a visit to poundland, I have them in the car, workshop, house upstairs and down, in the kitchen, suitcases for holiday and in the holiday home, tinted and clear.....no idea how many I have now but I rarely don't have a pair to hand.

Just had another in. I reckon in time, the air filter gets a little bit of fuel/oil on it and it is enough to cut off enough air to cut the max revs and I tend to tune the H screw a bit fat to ensure no engine problems....check the H screw setting and lean it up a bit. It should sort it if the issue is not hitting the high revs as it should.

You only need to worry about the infamous Nomex Jacket Woodworm

You know when you get a drill sharp after a grind, the swarf comes out thick and fast! Glad you like the magnifying glass idea!

I got a cheapo Silverline grinder....I use it to sharpen home owner chains and ones that have been mullered or sharpened very badly...a sharpener does make the job on each cutter repeatable and easy. The advice - I fitted a cheap speed adjuster on my sharpener to avoid heat build up and lightly dabbing the chain with the grinder avoids hardening the cutter. Dress the wheel with a diamond file if it gets glazed. Don't forget to file the rakers/depth gauges otherwise the chain won't cut well. I use a file if the chain needs a light touch up but when it is well blunt, if you are pretty good at sharpening as it sounds you are doing drills.....I do that also using a magnifying glass and bench grinder, sharpening chains should be relatively easy.

As ADW said....the flywheel fan pumps up air to around the air filter. There will always be fine sawdust in this air and it will end up around the carb. This is just one reason all arb types should have a compressor and air line to clean their chainsaws.