spudulike

L&S list the solenoid below but I have fitted the white kit version to MS201s and they have run fine. The black ones were the earlier ones. The issues seem, as you said, to come from fine particles getting in to the solenoid and the resulting fix was the orange finer fuel filter. You can sometimes catch and nick the O ring on the solenoid on fitting so it is worth using a small dab of 2T oil to lubricate it on fitting. It is worth pulling out the gauze strainer in the carb if you haven't already. They can get clogged or scummed up and if it drys, it can be difficult to see if it is clear or not. I had one once that looked clean but on pulling it, it had scum in the open areas doing a good job of blocking it. Solenoid Valve for Stihl MS201T-CM M-Tronic Chainsaw - 0000 120 5111 | L&S Engineers WWW.LSENGINEERS.CO.UK Solenoid Valve for Stihl FS460 Brushcutter Genuine Stihl Part. OEM No. 0000 120 5111 Suitable for the Following Applications: FR460 TC-EFM, FR460 TC-EM, FS360 C-EM, FS360 C-EM Z...

You could try getting in to 70s rock, buying the Mother of all sound systems and knocking yourself out on Zep and Purple....that should hide the annoying noise...pity the neighbours.... unless they like a bit of Rainbow, Gillan Band and Whitesnake!

It may be a ground or air source thermal heat pump or solar heated water pump....these things have a bit of a mind of their own. Or as others have said, Septic tank pumps etc. I usually cup my ears with my hands to get a bearing on spurious sounds...take it one step further, a decent directional microphone...one with a dish behind it and plug it in to a laptop with a sound package on it and see if you can identify the wavelength and direction of the sound.

Thanks for coming back and letting us know...many don't and just use the knowledge base and then piss off in to the distance. Glad it is sorted....good news.

I think your diagnosis gave him a mental illness!!

I am impressed that, at your age, you know how to turn it on

You can normally tell if the compression is low but taking the muffler off and looking at the piston may help to see if it is in good order. It is worth looking at the exhaust port for carbon and have seen the muffler baffle Carbons up on this model before so starting it without the exhaust may help. A working engine needs compression, fuel and spark. You have a spark, it needs to happen at the right time but it is unlikely to be out unless the flywheel key has sheared. Compression...you need 140 or over on most machines. Fuel...is the plug wet when you remove it? If you turn the engine upside down with the plug out and pull it over hard, do you get fuel spattering out of the hole? If the engine is dry, you could try inducting a bit of WD40 in to the engine through the carb to see if that makes the engine fire. Most issues are compression and fuel related. Because a part has been replaced doesn't always mean it has been done correctly!!

It will most likely be one of two things, the most likely is that the clutch drum needle bearing is this that worn, the end of the oiler arm has been worn off. If this is correct, you will need a new oiler arm, needle bearing and probably a new drum. If this isn't the case, you will need to fit a new carb solenoid....preferably the upgrade kit that includes the fuel filter.

Looks a bit pickled to me......agree with the above seeing as the walnuts are still on it!

The smoke is probably oil burning off the heated drum and clutch due to the slipping clutch...seen it before!

Are you saying the chain is spinning on idle? If so, you may have a worn or broken clutch spring. The chain stopping sounds like the clutch is slipping so possibly the clutch shoes have worn that much they are not gripping the drum sufficiently. It is also possible that something is stopping the shoes extending correctly under centrifugal force. You should check out the Clutch, drum and rim drive and check the clutch drum bearing whilst you are in there!

They probably come from the forests around Chernobyl!

Have been using ours for a couple of weeks....the wife says she was cold when it hit 27 degrees C in the living room

I think it is a Double Eagle 50....more info here: - Model Profile: DOUBLE EAGLE 50 WWW.ACRESINTERNET.COM

You couldn't make it up could you? Man has buggered mower, man fixes mower, man gets attacked by swarm of jaspers, man escapes but the mower takes a dive Glad you got it fixed and it looks like you survived the trauma.

If it is still not working after this, you get to the stage where you either swap out parts or you hope that if you take it to a dealer, the Mtronic software will tell you something that you have missed. The most likely issue is the carb followed by the coil but swapping parts out is expensive and generally a cop out! In my experience, issues like this have been caused by the solenoid or the wiring broken as I have explained and not had one that doesn't idle after investigating these two items. Unfortunately there isn't much left to add!

BTW...you really shouldn't change the idle screw setting, if the saw ran for most of it's life in a set position, it should't need changing. Running a saw with the impulse line off causes an air leak and can risk engine seizure although the Mtronic should compensate for this. Is the piston in decent order?

The impulse line allows the fuel in the fuel tank to be pumped to the carb ABOVE it...think of it as part of a mini fuel pump. I have seen saws run with them removed as the fuel tank generally has a bit of positive pressure in it but when this goes negative, the saw will not run. Idling issues on these saws are more often than not, down to the solenoid...I know you have changed it. You mention changing the "Reeds"...these saws don't have reeds..reeds allow the carb to pump fuel mix vapour directly in to the crankcase whilst sealing it once positive pressure forms in the crankcase which does away with the piston timing on the inlet port on the cylinder. Old saws may have reeds as well as old two stroke motorcycles. You may mean the pump diaphragm, when you replaced these diaphragms, I trust the spacer sealing gaskets were replaced in the correct order....the pump diaphragm should rest directly against the carb body, the metering diaphragm should have the spacer garket between it and the carb body. Did you change the gauze strainer? This causes many issues on carbs. Have you checked the fuel line and fuel filter? some of the Stihl solenoid upgrade kits come with the later orange (finer) fuel filter. The exhaust can block as Stihl like to make the outlet pretty small but it sounds like you have been there. The wiring loom under the top handle front AV mount can stress and stretch/break the wires especially if the saw has stuck in the cut at some stage and it is best to either measure the continuity of the three wires or just replace the loom. I had one saw that seemed fine but would consistently cut out if shaken violently. Have you checked the coil to flywheel gap? Is the HT lead in good order? Seen plenty of saws where the spur has come away from the HT lead.

Probably the easiest method and I have done one before like this, the pressure the closed door exerts will make sure the seals set in place. After four hours, you could make up a small fire just to finish off the glue hardening. Other than that, you could make something up that resembles a car ball joint remover or chain link remover to push the pin out, something like this: -

Yup, the pic of the top hinge shows that it won't lift. The grub screw needs to be removed and the pin off the bottom hinge removed as others have said.

Yup, it pissed off a few villagers when I ran it up....but everything used to piss them off!!

You may be able to open up the chimney but don't just go at it as you may need to let in a steel lintel (or a strip of thick steel) to stop the thing falling in. Sometimes, old houses have had their chimneys reduced and you just need to reverse the earlier work.

You should try Google Lens....it identifies pretty much anything and is pretty decent.

I would say that the grub screw is holding the hinge pin in the hinge moulding on the door. The pin itself looks like the top of it has been mushroomed so it won't fall through the hole if the grub screw loosens. I would say WD40 and then try to lift the door whilst opening and closing the door. A bit of manipulation and I think the door will start to lift off...it may take a decent bit of wobbling to and fro whilst giving it a lifting motion but it should lift. If you have a mapp gas plumbers torch, you could heat the hinge up a bit and add a bit of oil - it may catch fire so be prepared....the heat may help but try without first.

Been a long time since I have had one of these apart but from memory, the crimped bit fits in to the white quadrant on the carb. I would think that you haven't got the cable sleeving set right at one end or the other. it has probably ridden out of its seat and is now catching making the cable inner too short. Check the cable is set right at both ends and it should be fine.