spudulike
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Everything posted by spudulike
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Yup, nice and hot....been burning a fair bit this winter.
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Sounds about right from my experience of a former neighbour at a previous property known as "The Bell End".
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Yes on the CAT, they tend to sap power and make cold running an issue. The last bit about US machines on UK fuel is BS BTW.
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Should be OK then and they are a tight fit against the crank - it eases with time.
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Relatively normal for them to be tight - is that turning by the crank shaft stub or the flywheel or clutch? Did you put them in the correct way round?
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Seen it all before....even old iron is still damn effective on this sort of work. 920 for £100....even on eBay, that should do double that!
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Most issues are carb related on these saws but am assuming the working carb from another saw rules this out!! Have you increased the idle speed a bit on the working carb? The impulse line rarely splits on this saw - coming off is more common. Split manifolds are a lot more common. You can often get the saw working and it will die if you hold the engine down and pull the top handle upwards. Compression should be 150 -170psi - higher the better. Worn piston/rings or a scored piston can cause the saw not to run well. Without seeing the saw, it is difficult to tell what is wrong but a 2004 saw with probably a lot of abuse will have its issues. Worth cleaning around the flywheel, the 200 isn't bad but the 150 and 201 are prone to a build up of shyte behind the flywheel causing the saw to stop at low revs because of the friction slowing the engine....the 150 particularly.
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Has it got a CAT?
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Good for a bit of road rage as well
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In my world, I would grab a saw, chop up the wood, burn the brash and keep the logs....and charge the tree owner a few bottles of Shiraz...nice and simple. All that legal stuff sounds a bit expensive and likely to affect future insurance costs. A simple mutual solution is usually the best but unfortunately, idiotic neighbours may mess up a decent plan! -
As above but usually a pressure and vac check is the best way of checking for leaks. You may find it not connected to the union on the underside of the handle and this is much more common. A split inlet manifold boot will give the issues that you have so worth checking. In my world, most of these saws have had 10-15 years hard life and most are due a full strip, inspection and new parts as most owners just abuse them until they die!!! 2004........18 years of abuse!!
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Oh dear...he has finished that Downton Abbey boxed set he got at Christmas
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If it is on someones land or over their boundary, seek the owner, most will be happy with it gone. If it is on the verge/road/ verge ditch....almost everyone won't give a monkeys if it is cleared and may well think you are doing a service. One rule - always leave the site clean, neat and tidy so nobody can complain.
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Remove the muffler and check the piston - look for scores. I have seen many feel like that they have good compression but have been seized. If you can't do this, check the compression when the engine is warm - expect at least 150psi+ The working carb rules out the carb and generally that means it is probably the engine rather than the HT system.
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I think it was closed transfers but with less aggressive tuning as the 346 but more torque. I ported one a few years back for an arbtalker....I believe he liked it.
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I didn't realise she worked at FCUK, Is that in Croatia?
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Damn that must be one strong saw
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Yup, the circular hole is the tank breather - it allows air in to the tank as oil comes out. The red oil is red because someone has put two stroke in to the oil tank at some stage....recently. Make sure you put chain oil in the oil tank and a 50:1 premix petrol to oil in the fuel tank. The chainsaw doesn't mix the oil with the petrol, you do it BEFORE pouring it in the fuel tank.
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As above - sort of like a 346. Nice 50cc saw and would be a good "go to saw".
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She is bloody frightening and in no way capable of running this country!
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I think from memory, it joins on to the heater plate that fits between the carb air filter elbow and carb.
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The original seals are very fragile and are easily fractured. I use a decent quality seal from my bearing supplier as they pop in much easier and don't break.
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To stop the locals pinching it, just leave it in large pieces until you can extract it. Their little shity saws will clap out on the larger stuff. Reckon my trusty ported 346 would do a lot of that though, all but the main trunk. The trusty 181se would do that......just wetting ADWs appetite with a bit of old Husky porn!!
