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spudulike

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Everything posted by spudulike

  1. spudulike
    Never mind, I think we both know we both know our stuff
  2. spudulike
    If it was stuck down, the saw would flood and not start. The fella has "fitted a new carb" so it can't be the carb....unless "New" was in fact "different" or "cheap Chinese poop"! Time will tell.
  3. spudulike
    That's what I said last night! The standard settings are 1 turn out but if they are set to 1 1/4 turns each, the saw should run fine once the idle is adjusted. I have only ever had fuel vapour coming out of the carb when the carb is megga rich or the piston skirt is very worn and the pressure in the lower crankcase freeports past the sealing piston skirt back up the inlet port and out of the carb - that was a ported MS660, ran fine before modding but the squaring of the inlet port caused this issue but a new piston fixed it. It appeared the saw had been used for a lot of milling and the filter was pretty worn causing the original piston skirt to wear.
  4. spudulike
    The back fire suggests the ignition timing is incorrect and that the flywheel has spun round on the crank and sheared the key but generally it wouldn't run when this happens. It is however, worth pulling the flywheel off and checking the flywheel, especially if you can do that sort of work. The over revving - in your first video, the saw sounded pretty strangled and no sign of it over revving, when does this happen and if you turn the H screw anti clockwise, does it stop over revving? Over revving is generally caused by an air leak or an incorrect setting on the H screw....just so you know. The 350 is prone to leaking air between the lower engineering plastic cradle and the upper crankcase. This wouldn't cause the fuel to come out of the inlet but would cause over revving. Strange you have over fuelling and over revving together as too much fuel means lower revs as can be seen in the first vid.
  5. spudulike
    If it was like Matts hedge trimmer, throwing it out of the nearest tree for being blunt, not working, not starting, because it is a Monday etc No offence....happy days they were!
  6. spudulike
    Not a bad call if it is the muffler with the spark arrestor!
  7. spudulike
    Funny that, I had an Irish customer, that is a customer in Ireland rather than an Irish fella....that is something different. He had tinnitus from some dodgy muffler front he fitted to his MS660 that had given him tinnitus and wanted his saw ported but not too loud. I said it would be "pleasantly rorty but not excessive". I did my work and he said....."spot on, nice and rorty but not excesive" and goes like a........well, you know the rest. It was and he was happy!
  8. spudulike
    Wood pigeons are a bit thick and inherently lazy....that's it!
  9. spudulike
    It looks like your H screw is wound a fair bit out. Wind it in until LIGHTLY seated and unwind 1.5 turns and try again. 1 turn is usual but am building in a bit of safety until the saw is running better. The H screw is the one on the carb furthest from the engine!
  10. spudulike
    Half a bottle of Chardonnay here....things are looking spiratical!!
  11. spudulike
    Have you had a few? I have and it still makes no sense
  12. spudulike
    I don't believe it exists Andy but...carry on using it if you like!
  13. spudulike
    I am sure it will but will leave you bleeding from the ears as well!
  14. spudulike
    B&W Zeppelin......the little fella has good taste, were you playing the birdie song???
  15. spudulike
    Interesting...... fuel vapour coming out of the intake sounds like a very worn piston allowing the engine to "free-port" past the piston when the piston is on its downward cycle. I am taking that when you have fitted a "new" carb, the needle valve and diaphragm won't be the issue. The over revving on a 350 is most likely an air leak on the inlet manifold and possibly on the join between the lower crankcase and the engineered plastic engine cradle that makes up the lower crankcase - it is relatively common and a full pressure and vacuum test will diagnose the issue. Spiraticly is a new one on me...perhaps "sporadically" is what you mean.....with irregular intervals??? I think the saw needs to be stripped down, the piston checked out and then rebuilt with a full vacuum and pressure test being done on rebuild and then set up with a tach tune at the end....with the symptoms you have.
  16. spudulike
    I think he means the 1/4" pitch bar.
  17. spudulike
    That looks a bit knackered to me....new crank time. You may get lucky and find a secondhand one on ebay.
  18. spudulike
    The tree is so small so not a problem at the moment but in time, it will block out light and fill your house gutters with seeds and leaves and need constant maintenance to keep it off the house. I have silver birch trees around me and in late summer they drop little seeds that get everywhere, they drop small leaves in the Autumn and drop catkins I think..in the spring. I am forever getting them off the car as they get in to every crevice and even blow in to the house through windows and ventilation ducts etc. They are a pain in my backside TBH, and have to say, I really hate them. If it was me...get rid before it gives issue costing £££, grind the stump out and put a nice flowering shrub in its place and keep it trimmed to size - viburnum, ceanothus, choisya and Red Robin to name but a few. Just keep it below 6' which is relatively easy and it will give you a bit of privacy.
  19. spudulike
    Like I said, my thinking is the big end cage has cracked and spat a bit out and that is what is lodged in to the squish band. It will need a new crank if I am right but it is easy enough to check it out. Looks like the cylinder may have survived which is extremely lucky.
  20. spudulike
    Leave the plug out and pull the engine over briskly to eject any oil there may be in the cylinder. Replace the plug, check the oil level and if OK, fire it up and all should be good but check the oil level after a few minutes running. At least we got to the bottom of the creamy oil A bit of white spirit or even petrol would be better to purge it of oil. Soapy water if just dirty with dust.
  21. spudulike
    Looks like the white metal big end cage may have cracked and spat out a bit hence the dent on the piston crown. You can check the cage, where visible, for damage. The cost of the crank and new bearings will be relatively high, the top end doesn't look too bad in the pics and as BMP said, relatively big job for a novice and hope you have splitters, thumping the crap out of the cases and crank isn't dignified!!
  22. spudulike
    I agree with Dan, sounds like emulsified water and oil, the type of thing you get on your car oil cap when the head gasket has failed or water has got in to the oil on old oil. Clean it off, check the oil in the sump is OK, run it up and get it warm, drain the oil and see if it is nice and clean. You can check to see if the crankcase breather runs back in to the air filter...mostly done to improve emissions.
  23. spudulike
    Not being funny but....that is one massive T bar for the small T27 bit. I have always used the Stihl T27 T bars - pretty strong and last well plus they reach down the cylinder head to the retaining screws at the bottom.
  24. spudulike
    Being someone that knows when an item is fully deceased, how about fixing the beloved item rather than discarding it?
  25. spudulike

    Barkbox

    spudulike replied to Giles D's topic in Chainsaws

    That was my opinion as well. You need ear plugs and ear defenders with this "muffler"! Not something you can really use unless your work is forestry or in the middle of nowhere. Makes my mods seem pretty quiet.

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