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Squaredy

Member
  • Content count

    46
  • Joined

  • Last visited

About Squaredy

  • Rank
    Junior Member
  • Birthday 19/11/1969

Personal Information

  • Location:
    Newport, South Wales
  • Interests
    Fishing, boating, woodwork
  • Occupation
    Timber supplier
  • Post code
    np18 2dy
  • City
    Newport
  1. Hoppus price

    As with all logs for milling it depends on the quality. I pay usually around £4 per hoppus foot for an average tree, but if it was a really straight stem and over two foot diameter I might pay double this or even £10 per hoppus foot (less transport cost). That would be for a rare quality tree however. Most Walnuts I have been offered are not much more than a foot diameter, which means even the widest board will only have 6 inches of heartwood. Also the problem is people see the value of Walnut timber per cubic foot and think that they can use this figure to work out the value of a tree. They forget about the time and cost of felling, transporting, milling, waiting for a couple of years whilst it dries, and then finding 50% is waste due to splits, nails, sapwood etc. I am currently milling three walnut trees and there is some lovely timber, but nearly 50% sapwood, some bad rot and two lovely nails!
  2. Boiler stove?

    Yes it can get complicated! Two more items to consider: How well insulated is the house? Heating 8 rads in a poorly insulated drafty house is a different matter from 8 rads in a modern house with very little heat loss. Having a back boiler needs a lot more management than a simple woodburner. You have to watch that the water doesn't get too hot and boil, which might happen when it is not really that cold, and possibly stoke the fire a lot to get all the rads up to heat in cold weather. Whereas a woodburner that is not connected to rads you just add fuel when it gets a bit low. If you can achieve the same result by opening some doors to distribute heat around the house, this is a lot simpler than having the back boiler! Also if it is an open fire with a back boiler I suspect you will burn an awful lot of firewood to get the rads hot....they are much less efficient than woodburners.
  3. Firewood is too time consuming?

    OK Gary thanks. I had a good response to my original post, but most people were a bit far away, though one member is just round the corner from me. I am always after logs for sawmilling as well, though I have plenty just now, but maybe later in the year...
  4. Firewood is too time consuming?

    Hi Taff and thank you for your message. A bit more information would be good. What species softwood do you have or is it mixed?
  5. The science behind forced log drying

    Yes with some species this is true, for instance Cedar of Lebanon has very wet sapwood, but fairly dry heartwood. But I would say with most hardwoods this is not the case. Oak, Sweet Chestnut Beech and others are very very wet right through so splitting is a good idea and will help drying.
  6. Firewood is too time consuming?

    Thanks gdh, I will PM you.
  7. Firewood is too time consuming?

    Thank you for the responses. I would prefer to avoid Spruce as in my experience it is just not very dense. I would be more likely to take Pine than Spruce. Having said that if someone showed me some Spruce that was clearly slow grown I might be OK with it. There is quite a bit of Spruce on my site and it is very fast growing, so very light indeed when dry. Maybe Spruce is denser where you are? In answer to you gdh yes you probably are a bit too far (my Dad lives near Llandovery, but sadly he doesn't posess a grab lorry). Unless I can find a lorry that comes from your way down this way and get a good rate for a back load. I probably need no more than 8 or 10 lorry loads per year, and no timing isn't important so I could take it when you are quiet and then I would sell it the following winter or the one after. Know any good hauliers with tipper lorries or similar?
  8. Anyone fancy the idea of making money from firewood, but not happy about the time it takes doing all those deliveries, and either sitting on the wood for ages, or building a kiln? I am after suppliers of processed but unseasoned hardwood and softwood near to South East Wales. I can collect and of course will pay a wholesale price, as I then have to dry the wood, bag it up and sell it. I am a little fussy about what species I buy - for hardwoods I can take Beech, Oak, Birch Hornbeam, and Ash, and softwoods Larch or Douglas Fir only. I pay £60 per full IBC cage (or euquivalent volume) of hardwood and £50 for softwood. Ideally I would collect in a tipper grab lorry and we can work out volume when it is in the lorry, but other ways may be feasible. Anybody like the sound of doing all the routine processing and letting me worry about drying, delivering, customer complaints etc....!!! You must be within say 45 mins or so of Usk/Newport of course or the transport cost will be too high (Bristol would be fine). And yes I really don't care how fresh and wet the wood is. Anyone like the sound of that?
  9. Cedar of Lebanon

    Hi these stems are not in my area, but I am always after Cedar of Lebanon, Deodar etc in South East Wales if anyone else has any. Also very keen on getting London Plane, and Lime. In fact if they are good sized I will even pay a modest price for Leylandii as long as the stems are pretty clean - not knotty all the way up. I also buy Birch, Alder and Poplar by the way. I am talking about milling size logs at least 8 ft long, and straightish.
  10. Tell me this isn't rippled sycamore?

    Rippling is very common in Ash, Sycamore, Sweet Chestnut among others but usually only a small length near the base of the tree. When the bark is peeled the timber underneath is clearly rippled like corrugated cardboard. The value is if a log is strongly rippled for a fair length so whole boards will be rippled. It is then valuable for musical instruments and so on. Usually though it is just an interesting feature at one end of a board and has no real affect on the value because it is not strong enough or there are other faults. By the way, it is of course a nightmare to plane as the grain is dipping up and down.
  11. Chainsaw carving

    I can't resist sharing this picture of an amazing carving completed by one of my regular customers (Chris Wood based in Caerleon). He is a seriously talented carver and this is the usual standard of his work. I hope the picture shows OK - I am a bit of a novice at such things.
  12. how long will my cordwood last?

    Yeah I agree two years is a bit too long -best to sheet it over. Processing firewood and finding half is soft is not much fun. Also it all gets very messy - dusty and mucky - not such a clean product.
  13. How should I treat these yew slices?

    One technique is nearly what an earlier post described. Cut the whole middle section out (maybe a six inch diameter disk or even more) with a jigsaw or similar. With a large disk maybe cut out two or more concentric disks. Then the large disks with the hole in will shrink without splitting (probably) and the smaller ones have a chance. Then when all drying has finished you will need to carefully fit them back together, maybe reducing the size of the inner ones to fit, and gluing into place. Also of course you will need to dry them really slowly. Or my personal favourite - let them split - they will still be beautiful. Or if you don't want a split get hold of some Giant Redwood or Coastal Redwood - they may well not split.
  14. Standing wood value

    I am sure the Forestry Commission will give you advice and send an officer to discuss options. They may expect a full management plan to be drawn up, and bear in mind the value of 35 year old standing pines may be only £12 per ton or so. I may be a little out of date but these will probably be logs suitable only for low grade fencing or just pulp, not proper milling. And of course felling all the pines may cause all sorts of problems with the hardwoods - leaving them exposed to windthrow for example. If this isn't your area of expertise I think some professional advice is essential.
  15. Wow that is a fascinating video about the train brake shoes - I thought that had died out 50 years ago. When James the red engine first arrived at Sodor he had wooden brake shoes and they caught fire and he crashed, so the Fat Controller repaired him, painted him red and gave him metal brake shoes! By the way, another good use of Poplar is for young children to learn simple woodwork as it is easy to cut. Bit of a small market I admit.

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