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Everything posted by Squaredy

  1. Hi, I buy Poplar for milling if they are clean and straight and fairly priced. Would you like to PM me the details?
  2. Squaredy


    Very beautiful timber and it won't be affected by the DED. Unless it has bad ring shake it will be well worth milling. Useful for indoor furniture etc, but also potentially outdoor items, even boatbuilding potentially. Worth googling a few images as it is beautiful timber - way nicer than Oak.
  3. Thanks guys. Anyone on here got one of them?
  4. I am probably going to invest in my own bandmill blade sharpening equipment. It is for my Norwood HD36 bandmill, but in the future this may get upgraded to something better. Can anyone share their personal experience of such machines? I like the look of the Wood Mizer one, but at £1850 it is over three times the price of the Woodland Mills one, and they seem to do a very similar thing.... Same question as well for setting machines - any recommendations?
  5. I don't think it is possible for firewood to be too dry. This is a myth propagated by people selling firewood that is not dry enough! If your fire burns too fiercely and hot you need to use fewer larger pieces, not wetter wood.
  6. Getting them sharpened properly is a challenge also. I could tell you about several professional saw doctors who do not sharpen them correctly. Stephen cull does sharpen them right, but yes it also is a can of worms.
  7. I totally agree with Andy's advice - Ripper 37 are the blades to use from Stephen Cull. But to answer your question - you need to change the blade often. If we are cutting all day we get through 5 or 6 blades, so changing every hour or so. And not because we are cutting muddy logs or hit metal. Just these type of bandsaws need super sharp blades. Also you could be going too fast with the cut. So try a new blade, (preferably Ripper 37) and if still wavy try slowing down.
  8. We call it a burr in the UK. Wood turners love them so I would make sure it is saved if and when it is felled. A photo or two would help. The challenge is finding a buyer, but some arbtalkers might be interested.
  9. Forgive me as this is not my area of expertise, but as it is very likely this tree will fall victim to Ash Dieback at some point over the coming months or year or two is it really worth trying to save? If it has a question mark over it and is already starting to show dieback signs why not just accept the inevitable?
  10. And now some slightly wider logs - Cedar of Lebanon just over four feet at the widest point, and fair play it cut it well. Maybe I will get onto some really big logs next week... Watch this space.
  11. I am sure it will be more sellable as lorry load batches.for sure. But that stack is too mixed for most sawmills.
  12. Well I buy 2.5m logs for milling. But I think most sawmills would want longer.
  13. I can't speak for other mills but I pay £70 per ton for most woods (hard or soft) and £100 or more for Oak and 2.5m is perfect for me. I am very small though and only need a lorry load or three every now and then. And as has been said most sawmills will want longer logs - 3.7m for softwood and as long as possible for hardwood possibly 5m.
  14. I would say keep the noise to between 9 and 6 Weekdays then really no-one can complain. I am sure the complainant would have a different attitude if work was being done for them. The council will not be worried unless the noise is from a business being run from home or anti social hours.
  15. Awesome that is fantastic. I am sure it will do really well. Well done Saul.
  16. I've always hated plastic grass for so many reasons. The thought that it can be damaged and result in thousands of pounds worth of repairs being necessary is just another reason: it is a product that is a shame it was ever invented. Why is it suddenly so popular anyway? I wonder if there is a firm somewhere inventing plastic trees, so that gardens need never be ruined by dropped leaves, or trees growing too large?
  17. Lots of interesting points here. Water on its own is sometimes not enough. Hardwoods are fine usually it is the softwoods like Larch and Pine that can have really sticky resin when we use the screen wash. The Lenox protool lube looks interesting I will look into that. And I hadn't even thought of legionaires. I am forever warning people to flush through our hose before they use the pressure washer due to legionaires risk - never thought of the blade lubricant water! Thanks for the info so far.
  18. For a number of years I have used a little screenwash in with the water in my Norwood bandmill to lubricate the blade. It seems to work well, but I got thinking about the safety angle. The guy who does most of my milling is in his twenties and could potentially work for me for many years into the future. Despite the breathing apparatus I supply it is inevitable he will breath some in over time, and screenwash does contain several harmful chemicals. We could just stick to water of course but does anyone else have any suggestions that are effective but known to be safe in the long term? I am aware that diesel is a good lubricant but I am even less happy about using diesel for the same safety reasons. Any suggestions other than just plain water?
  19. I am in need of one or two lorry loads of Poplar sawlogs. Must be nice and clean and straight and able to be delivered by full size timber lorry. Min diameter about 15 inches. I am near Newport South Wales so within striking distance of this please. I am not fussy on which Poplar as long as they are pretty clean and not full of rot! Any offers please PM me.
  20. Can't argue with any of that. And you haven't even mentioned the decades of bodging that blights our houses even more. My 1920's house is stifling upstairs at the moment because plastic windows were fitted in the late nineties with very few openers for instance. It also has many damp issues made worse by the government sponsored cavity wall insulation fitted in 1999. At least these issues can be fixed, eventually and at a cost of many thousands. So to add to your ire about housebuilders I would add much frustration about cowboy builders, window companies etc.
  21. I made a mistake with my first Bandmill. It is a Norwood HD36 I bought new in 2015. Regretted it from day one.
  22. Yes that is hefty I agree. As the OP said if a couple could come over at the same time it might be more reasonable. I think the high cost is due to the fact it comes as one fully assembled. Having had to assemble my Norwood from a box of bits I would def pay $2500 to avoid doing this again....!
  23. Mmmmm that is impressive. I will need to replace my Norwood at some point and that does look a lot of saw for your money. To be able to cut up to 32 inches wide is impressive for a saw of that price. And I do agree with you, parts should not be a problem. In fact I often find it quicker and cheaper to order parts from the USA even when they are available here in the UK. I needed a new carb for my Lucas Mill a couple of years back and I tried to get it about a week before Christmas. The local guys said things like...."Ooooohhh you won't get it until the second week of the new year." So I found a dealer in USA who I spoke to over the phone; he had the exact correct spec OE Kohler carb on the shelf, and it went in the post the same day. It flew to Heathrow Christmas day and even with customs clearance it was in my hands late December.
  24. First log milled earlier in the week with my Peterson. To begin with the blade was diving but we adjusted it and got it cutting straight. This batch was done without sharpening the chain and now I think a sharpen is needed. So far so good.


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