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wjotner

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    54
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About wjotner

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    Member

Personal Information

  • Location
    Hathersage, Derbyshire
  • Occupation
    Arborist
  • City
    Sheffield
  1. 4x4 pickup tippers - which have best capacity

    yep, i'm thinking i should just get some ally planks and bolt onto the transit. Trouble is i'm not much for DIY and don't have the tools or space.
  2. 4x4 pickup tippers - which have best capacity

    Cheers guys. All valid points. To be honest, i should really stick with a transit as i usually dont use a chipper (just brash down on back with chainsaw, so the capacity needs to be pretty big) as i don't have enough money or regular work to pay for a chipper just yet. But my transit is old, and in order to use with a chipper (which i need to do to grow my business) i need to get a decent chip box on it. Trouble is, every quote i get for building a chip box is higher than the value of the truck. So if i'm going to spend money on a van, then I'd rather it be one i think I'm gonna get a few years of use out of and won't depreciate as much in value. Plus i can't really afford to keep running my van and my car. If i get a pickup tipper, then i can use as a car and sell my 2 other vehicles. But am I mad to use a smaller van?
  3. I'm weighing up selling my transit tipper and getting a 4x4 pickup tipper. So obviously, none of the pickups will be able to fit a chip box that can match a transit's capacity. But which will fit the most. My assumption is that a Landy Defender 130 will be the biggest. But i hate driving defenders. Will a Ranger or L200 fit a decent size chip box?
  4. New Tipper body for old Ford Transit

    yeah the floor of the bed is ok. Just had some welding done on a couple of holes. So hopefully just need ally sides bolted on. Can anyone recommend a welder or decent bodyshop in Sheffield area?
  5. New Tipper body for old Ford Transit

    Yeah, I'm gonna try to get a quote or two from some local welders. I'm not really the DIY, bodge it together myself type. So I'd have to pay someone to do it. I just want to get an idea of what I might have to pay someone to fit ally sides onto the tipper bed. The tipper bed is ok. So it's just a case of building onto it i reckon. Thanks for your answers
  6. I've decided after a lot of thought to keep my crewcab transit tipper. But the tipper body needs improving/replacing. How much would you expect to pay to have a standard tipper body replaced/improved with aluminium sides, barn doors and chip roof? Does anyone think this can be done for less than £1500?
  7. I'm looking for any groundies with at least some experience, preferably with Aerial Rescue ticket for occasional ad-hoc work around Sheffield and The Peak District (Hope Valley area). Usually will be needed about 1 day a week. Not too regular yet as I'm still building my own business. Will pay good rates, dependant on experience and skills. email me at commonwealthtrees@outlook.com or PM me here. Thanks
  8. 6 inch, sub750kg chippers - Which?

    Not sure about greenmechs. The ones I've worked with don't pull as well as timberwolfs and forsts.
  9. So i'm weighing up purchasing my first chipper. I want it to be economical, tough, 6inch feed and sub 750kg for towing. I know Timberwolf 230 is a popular choice for good reason. And I'll probably end up getting it. But I'm interested in considering the Forst ST6P. Its 6inch feed and sub750kg. It claims to be rugged etc. But it's a petrol engine. Has anyone had any experience with one of these? Can they put in a decent days work or are they for part-time tree surgeons? I'd like to go the petrol route. The emissions will be cleaner, less smelly and hopefully cheaper to run and lightweight. What do you lot reckon?
  10. Cambium Saver vs Pulley Saver

    I got a Pulley saver recently. Makes a big difference in lack of friction. I can fly up a tree without straining myself now. I agree about the prssic hitch for the pulley. It's an issue, but i prefer using ropes for friction rather than mechanisms, as i just can't see whats going on inside, so can't tell if it's gonna break. Thats why i picked it over the art rope guide. Paranoid probably.
  11. Just that the carabiner wouldn't provide same friction benefits as a pulley. Would be no better than just using a conventional ring cambium saver. Also, not sure about what how it might wear on the rope by running it over a single crab. Meanwhile... So i decided to by a PulleySaver and have put a small hole in end of my rope and tied some old throwline cord into a small loop through the hole. Now i can just hitch my retrieval ball to the loop and away I go. Cheers for the suggestions chaps.
  12. the hole in end of rope sounds like a good idea. Will definitely try that. Have considered the choker joker but will still have problems when I use a pulley. Not keen on running rope over a caribiner.
  13. ok, so my rope doesn't have a spliced eye on which i can securely tie a retrieval ball. But I really want to get a more advanced cambium/friction saver device like a Pulley Saver or ART Rope guide. But these can't be retrieved with the old 'tie a knot in the end of your rope' technique, as only a retrieval ball can fit through. So aside from having to buy a whole new expensive rope with a spliced eye. Does anyone have a useful solution to retrieving these devices from the ground without a ball in a spliced eye? thanks
  14. Some really helpful replies there guys, thanks. The cocoons and twin ropeguides are probably a little pricey and complex for me right now. I'm still just climbing on Doubled rope with a hitchclimber. I reckon it would take some practice getting it right and I don't have the spare cash to experiment right now. But definitely one for the future. Rich Rule's idea is a good one. And something I reckon i'd try out. The only problem might be coming down. If you come down on Ddrt system, you can't retrieve the SRT line. But you can't come down on the SRT line without burning through the Prussic. I guess I'd need a Rope Wrench or something on the SRT to deal with that? What do you reckon? Cheers
  15. Ok, so I'm trying to find some info on how to set up the following: I want to set and ascend on a Single Line. But I want to work off DdRT. I want a setup where I basically have my Ddrt setup pre-anchored to the SRT line so that when I reach the the top, I can just sit back into the Ddrt and start working. The advantage of this being the easier and quicker ascent and, if done correctly, the possibility of a moveable top anchor from which you can maybe use multiple re-directs, but still have the mechanical advantage of Ddrt while moving about within the canopy. I've seen something about it on internet once before, but can't find it again. Has anyone ever tried this technique? And if so, what Pro's and Con's have you found? Thanks Will

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