spudulike

Not far from me, perhaps I should go and see it I tried to report it but eBay have changed their reporting process and there is no easy way to say someone is selling a fake piece of shyte anymore! £260 for a non working bit of crap that cost £60 new.....some people must be dumb.

When I first got in to the porting thing, I did a lot of tests on my 357 with 8 pin, narrow kerf, 7 pin narrow kerf and standard 1.5mm gear. The 7 pin was faster on anything over 10-12" and the narrow kerf was 15% faster than the 1.5mm chain on the same rim. It really made that difference but it is obviously a compromise on strength in the cut so if you are mostly doing heavy forestry, it may not be for you but try it if speed is your thing. I tried a ported MS200t on a 1/4" pitch recently and it was completely bonkers unstoppable in the cut, the revs barely dropped in the cut under load! You just give up a bit of chain/bar strength - more chain tension adjusting etc!

Could just be the old shyte in the carb gauze strainer again. Worth checking the pump diaphragm as well, those flaps do tend to perforate sometimes. The bloke did say the compression was good...seen that beforeworth checking as well!

This may help, it states the clutch should be 86mm in dia. 050-051-075-076 Service Manual.pdf

If I had it, I would measure the clearance between the clutch and drum....a cheap set of metric feeler gauges will do this and look for 1mm+. I sort of suspect that the clutch springs are letting the shoes out too early and allowing the shoes to contact the clutch drum. The springs should keep the shoes in until 3000 - 3500 rpm before allowing them to drive the chain. Typically this issue is always down to worn, slack or broken clutch springs but can't be sure on yours until you confirm the clearance - someone with an 050 or 051 could confirm this clearance but would would need consideration for worn parts. The rest of the running issues - the saw should have enormous wrist breaking compression - if you measure it, expect 170psi+. Fuel systems are usually the next biggest culprit on old machines and then the HT system. Just a case of working through the machine bit by bit.

The clearance between drum and clutch looks pretty tight to me, especially on the laft hand side. The trouble with the clutch being aftermarket, you cant be sure it isn't just badly made or the clutch springs are poor - They usually are pretty iffy at the best! Your carrier (Centre boss) arms have a large gap between them and the clutch shoe. Looking at the IPL, it would seem that the arm usually extends to the shoe like the attached pic. Have you got the old clutch to compare? Does the clutch drum spin freely as it is without the machine running. Have you tried putting the bar on, starting it up and resting the chain on wood and blipping the throttle so you get a bit of friction action between the clutch drum and clutch? By doing this, you may take off any flash on the castings. I have just measured the clutch to drum clearance on my 181SE Husqvarna, it measures 1.2 - 1.3mm so you should expect very similar. If you are clever, you may be able to see where the shoes locate to stop on the carrier and lightly grind the surface so the shoes sit deeper making the clutch a smaller diameter. I would measure the gap you have and then decide the best course of action. You really need 1 - 1.5mm for it to work well. If this is OK, the clutch springs are best swapped out with OEM ones or just get the OEM clutch.

Push it back in to place...years left in it

You can't just ask "will it need retuning" as we have no idea where your saw is maxing out to. The very least you can do is to open the H screw out to the limiter but I have found many 460s and 361s over revving as they have loosened up with age and have had to pull the limiter to get it right. The only way anyone will know is to measure it at max revs and to retune it as and if required. Anything else is whether you will get away with it or not long term.

OK, from what I am reading, your clutch is aftermarket and 84mm diameter, the clutch drum is 85mm giving only 0.5mm clearance clutch to drum - this is far to small with 2mm being more normal. This is most likely the issue. You mention a 82mm clutch, this will give 1.5mm clearance between the clutch and drum which should work OK as long as the crank thread is the same. Aftermarket parts can be a bit hit and miss but the clearance is far too small - a photo of your clutch may substantiate this.

BTW, were the clutch and springs new and OEM? If you are using old springs and they are worn or slack, it will let the clutch spin the drum at idle speed.

If I am reading your post right, your clutch has an OD (outside diameter) 84mm and the clutch drum ID (Inside Diameter) is 85mm. If this is correct, you should have more clearance than 0.5mm around the clutch, more like 2-3mm. The 404 clutch should be part code 1111 160 2003 The 404 7T drum should be 1111 640 2002 The IPL is on this post...it may help Alec.....it is a centrifugal clutch as the force of the clutch shoes is outward, centripetal.....not heard that since A level physics...is inward force hope all is well with you BTW..long time....... 050 051 IPL.pdf

I gather he has a nice line of alcoholic beverages as well!!

Glad it worked out OK. Possibly wasn't positioned correctly last time it was apart.

2nd hole as per the pic (throttle slightly open)

Funny, so did I for a bit!

Sorry, not an area I would go to and I would personally think a muffler mod and your ignition advance would give you the easiest bang for the buck. If you know a little, measure the current squish with soft solder and if you have VERY close to or 1mm or more then the base gasket removal (replace with liquid gasket) is on as long as the original gasket is 0.5mm or less. These three things are relatively easy. If you want, just PM me and I will give you a few tips on simplifying what you do. The best mods are often some of the easy ones - do what gives you the 75% of typical gains from what is available - don't chase the last 5%....you aren't Sir Hamilton or Crashtaphen!

As ADW said, part of the CST check is the throttle solenoid position at full speed and idle on both Battery and Petrol equipment. Any dealer or outfit with access to CST will be able to do this check relatively easily and advise. I would agree that the throttle may be holding itself open with an ingress of chip or piece of bark etc. You could check this out beforehand if able.

Seen a lot of cows with calves and even bulls in fields walking around Norfolk. We tend to keep well away and keep an eye out on what they are up to as they always look a bit evil....horses are daft, cows are a bit menacing. I always tell the wife to leg it if they start to chase and if they get too close, smack them on the end of the nose real hard....no idea if I could outrun a cow, google says they go 25mph...I can't see them doing a 200 yard sprint and then laying down a decent pace over half a mile just to catch us and hopefully we will never find out. Agree about the dogs and sheep, if we walk anywhere close to sheep, the dog is on a very short lead and dragged across the field at heel! Also..all gates shut and locked behind us!

Yes...the splitting impulse tube...my favourite!!! I think Husqvarna made it out of Silicone when Nitrile would have done. Use a bit of big fuel line, done it in the past, just got to make sure the length and diameter is bob on perfect. Make sure you don't clamp the fuel line with the air box divider on reassembly!

OK, back on the Christmas card list!

Hmmmm

Hmmm, you poor old fella....don't tell me it is a little too heavy for you now

Hope you swerved the import duty

You barsteward....you can't do it, you said you loved it...that's it, we're finished

When I was a kid, the local council spent thousands putting in a shower block on the gypsy camp a couple of miles out of town. Within a few weeks, they had ripped out all the copper pipe and sold it and wrecked the work. To this day, I really don't understand this, I can only guess it was a bit like the gunfight at the OK Coral and it was a battle of who would rip the copper out fastest rather than enjoying a regular hot shower and not to crap in a hole first thing. I agree, there is good and bad in all race, religions etc but guess there is a higher concentration of bad in some of them!