spudulike

Maximum revs are 13500 so I would aim for around 13,000rpm as it gives a degree of safety if you get a slight air leak, slight blockage in fuel filter/gauze strainer etc. The saw should always be set with the load of a bar and chain fitted and also with a clean air filter. Get it up to operating temp before setting. You may need to pull out the H screw limiter cap - a wood screw will do it if it is still in - the cap is red in colour. I usually screw the wood screw in, turn it gently anticlockwise until it will go no further (this aligns the small key tab) and then pull it out, turn the H screw anti clockwise 1/2 turn and refit the cap as I don't trust people to fiddle and screw up my setting! You then just rev the saw flat out for a couple of seconds, register the revs and adjust the H screw anti clockwise if too high. This brings in more fuel and acts like a rev limiter for the saw. This model and the MS361 tend to over rev when well worn in and the H caps usually need removing.

As ABBA said...winner takes it all.....Ratman has a fall...........sorry bud, just say it as it is, done one or two 200s now

This pic isn't OEM, too polished/turned around the inlet mount, no numbers on the plate by the plug hole and the piston has a laser etched arrow, not a stamped ID.....that would worry me!

Oh.....you also have a plug insert of some sort on that cylinder of yours....not that it matters.

Just go to L&S and purchase an OEM kit. This is a working saw, you want top compression and performance. Most AM kits are pretty suspect and if you think paying £40 more for a kit on a saw that will earn you that back in the first two hours is too much, you need a psychologist and not a mechanic. So to recap - I said check the piston and cylinder in my first response. On finding the split boot, I said the piston and cylinder will be shot...we are ten days on and my track record has been pretty good. If you want the saw back to good working order, OEM boot, OEM cylinder kit and I would do the accelerator pump in the carb for good measure but is up to you as it is a bit tricky to do. The OEM kit is not bad value and will give you the best running saw plus will last years if set up OK.....it makes sense and you pay cheap, you pay twice. If you phone and plead poverty, they may give you a bit of a discount....... You can go the Stubby route, it is the way I used to do it but the supply of Meteor pistons has dried up plus you need to purchase a hone and know how to use it etc.....BUY A NEW OEM KIT!!! Cylinder With Piston 40 mm for Stihl MC200, MS200T - 1129 020 1202 | L&S Engineers WWW.LSENGINEERS.CO.UK Cylinder with piston 40 mm Genuine Stihl Part OEM Part No. 1129 020 1202 Suitable for the following Stihl...

The guy has fitted a good carb from a working machine otherwise I would agree with you. In my first post I did say remove the muffler and look at the state of the piston as many are shot now. The split inlet boot would have seized the piston and it is rare that the inlet bot splits and the owner stops using the machine immediately......most seize the saw in my experience! So....check the state of the piston!

He is playing B A and G so suspect it will be based on the G chord but no idea exactly what it is.

Yup, nice and hot....been burning a fair bit this winter.

Sounds about right from my experience of a former neighbour at a previous property known as "The Bell End".

Yes on the CAT, they tend to sap power and make cold running an issue. The last bit about US machines on UK fuel is BS BTW.

Should be OK then and they are a tight fit against the crank - it eases with time.

Relatively normal for them to be tight - is that turning by the crank shaft stub or the flywheel or clutch? Did you put them in the correct way round?

Seen it all before....even old iron is still damn effective on this sort of work. 920 for £100....even on eBay, that should do double that!

Most issues are carb related on these saws but am assuming the working carb from another saw rules this out!! Have you increased the idle speed a bit on the working carb? The impulse line rarely splits on this saw - coming off is more common. Split manifolds are a lot more common. You can often get the saw working and it will die if you hold the engine down and pull the top handle upwards. Compression should be 150 -170psi - higher the better. Worn piston/rings or a scored piston can cause the saw not to run well. Without seeing the saw, it is difficult to tell what is wrong but a 2004 saw with probably a lot of abuse will have its issues. Worth cleaning around the flywheel, the 200 isn't bad but the 150 and 201 are prone to a build up of shyte behind the flywheel causing the saw to stop at low revs because of the friction slowing the engine....the 150 particularly.

Sounds the most likely to me. Shouldn't be much of a job!

Has it got a CAT?

How's the back feeling now?

Good for a bit of road rage as well

In my world, I would grab a saw, chop up the wood, burn the brash and keep the logs....and charge the tree owner a few bottles of Shiraz...nice and simple. All that legal stuff sounds a bit expensive and likely to affect future insurance costs. A simple mutual solution is usually the best but unfortunately, idiotic neighbours may mess up a decent plan!

As above but usually a pressure and vac check is the best way of checking for leaks. You may find it not connected to the union on the underside of the handle and this is much more common. A split inlet manifold boot will give the issues that you have so worth checking. In my world, most of these saws have had 10-15 years hard life and most are due a full strip, inspection and new parts as most owners just abuse them until they die!!! 2004........18 years of abuse!!

Oh dear...he has finished that Downton Abbey boxed set he got at Christmas

If it is on someones land or over their boundary, seek the owner, most will be happy with it gone. If it is on the verge/road/ verge ditch....almost everyone won't give a monkeys if it is cleared and may well think you are doing a service. One rule - always leave the site clean, neat and tidy so nobody can complain.

Remove the muffler and check the piston - look for scores. I have seen many feel like that they have good compression but have been seized. If you can't do this, check the compression when the engine is warm - expect at least 150psi+ The working carb rules out the carb and generally that means it is probably the engine rather than the HT system.

I think it was closed transfers but with less aggressive tuning as the 346 but more torque. I ported one a few years back for an arbtalker....I believe he liked it.

I didn't realise she worked at FCUK, Is that in Croatia?