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spudulike

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Everything posted by spudulike

  1. It was on my list but hey ho......
  2. You sound like Donald Rumsfeld with his known and unknowns speech.....do you fancy a career in politics? You seem to have a good grasp of the facts!
  3. Or leave a bike in the same place with a few razor blades hidden on it!!! A lacerated nether region doesn't sound good and may stop them procreating....best way!!
  4. You can usually work the old ring in and out, scrape a little of the bruised metal out until the ring slides in and out freely.
  5. It is usually a case to see if you can pick up a cheap Chinese one with the same drive shaft end type - splined (number of splines), square (Across Flats), inner shaft diameter and the same outer shaft diameter although the later can be shimmed up with thin plastic sheet, paper etc.
  6. Unusual for NGK to break. The tight ring groove - use the broken ring to make sure the new ring fit isn't tight otherwise the ring will wear badly and not seal well. It is tight as the broken electrode will have impacted the edge of the piston crown - there should be a visible impression of the electrode on the piston crown edge and probably the squish band on the combustion chamber.
  7. Lucky that didn't take out the bore. I have seen some real crap plugs from Chinese Manufacturers. Stick with NGK and Bosch IMO.
  8. In my day we used to get old wrecker MOT failure bikes, get them running and then "bazz" about on them and then...sell them on! You learn a bit and make a bit that way! You just hope these dicks reap what they sow but reckon they will be unemployed most of there lives and go out of this world owning what they came in to it with...cock all!
  9. No way of testing the coil as it contains a lot of electronics rather than just a conventional electronic coil. The usual method is to test the HT lead from the cap to the laminate earth and you should get some sort of reading this way. The next thing is to set the gap much smaller than normal by using printer paper, disconnect the kill wire and see if you get a spark - I open the end electrode up to a 45 degree angle so you really get a good spark as it is easy to think the coil or plug has failed because you aren't generating a big fat spark. Also - give the engine a BIG pull when testing, some need to be spun over fast to generate a nice spark. If you still don't get a spark, it is very likely that the coil is shot - I did have a flywheel lose its magnetism once but it is rare and rarer still on a modern machine - it is usually heavy impact or age that messes them up!
  10. This whole episode sounds a bit like the late 1970s history of the Honda NR500. In short, Honda always favoured four strokes as that is what they predominantly sold so set about trying to win the Motorcycle 500 GP with a four stroke competing with the dominant two strokes of other manufacturers. Honda are pretty clever on engines and got round the "Four Combustion Chambers" rule by using oval pistons with two con rods to stabilize them with eight spark plugs and 32 valves. The pistons were going to be manufactured out of ceramics and have nitrogen cooling - later abandoned. They raced the bikes for the first time - Mick Grant hit the deck on the first lap due to an oil leak and their Japanese rider retired with ignition issues after 7 laps. Honda, not to be deterred, carried on for two years before giving up..........do you see the similarities? You can do much if you are clever, have the money and time but whether it makes good sense is another thing!!
  11. Well done, that has probably scared him off
  12. Old timer torque...the closest I have now is the 181SE but that is 80cc and ported - 24" no issue. 55cc and 24" sounds like no fun to me. The McCullochs were moved on BTW!
  13. From my side, I reckon it is bonkers. 24" bars need a 70cc+ saw. Taking what is a homeowner/semi pro saw and putting a bar this size when a 15" would be about right is madness. If he did get it working, he would be forever lifting it out of the cut to get back in to the power-band to keep the cut going. The oiler won't be up to it, the clutch will slip, the machine will be forever bogging down, AV would suffer.....these size bars are 395 territory........bonkers!
  14. Do a vid once the longer bar is fitted......prove that innovation overcomes experience and common sense
  15. Most issues are carb/fuel system related. A holed fuel line, old fuel filter, blocked tank breather or blocked carb gauze strainer may be the issue. Other than that, a really bad air leak can cause starting issues. I am assuming that with the saw seizing, it is unlikely that the coil or plug somehow failed in the rebuild process. Probably worth changing the plug as it gets a lot of vapourised aluminium on it when a saw seizes and can make the spark fail under compression. Is the plug getting damp with the attempted starting?
  16. Always think Elm has one of the best grains about. Nice job!
  17. The oiler pickup has a moulded sort or O ring seal, slip a thin small O ring over it as an extra seal and use a little liquid gasket. If that doesn't do it, the oil pump may just be worn.....saw a 372 like that.
  18. Funny that, there is a CD player skipping fix by placing a 10p coin on the magnetic floating boss on the Phillips CDM12 CD carriage. The thing is, the 10p is partially ferrous and fits perfectly in the magnetic recess!
  19. Will have to change his username to something like D7y, c73an or n0 01l or something similar now!!
  20. And that's about it. They are vintage, fire it up on your old mans birthday, cut a log and have a drink to him and leave it at that!
  21. ADW is correct, I add an O ring to the pickup and a bit of liquid gasket to cure this leakage but put it down to age!!
  22. Convolution.....A mathematical operation on two functions giving rise to a third.....have you swallowed the dictionary or just getting over excited at the TV premier of Downton Abbey tonight!! Happy New Year BTW
  23. Nice, been a long time since I played anything and the old Grago cartridge had stopped working on both channels, the Shure M75 on one but the Rega R100 was still bang on. I saw a "Built in Britain" on the Linn Sondek and am amazed at the prices they go for. They were always premium but now......wow!!!
  24. The symptoms you give are that the machine will idle OK which means the carb is providing enough fuel for low revs. When you open the throttle, the carb is only giving air and not an increase in fuel so there is an issue with fuel delivery through the carb so...if the machine is pretty new.....ADJUST THE CARB....a bit of anticlockwise on the H screw should do it. If the machine has seen lots of action, pressure check the fuel line, change the fuel filter, check the gauze strainer and pump diaphragm, clean the air filter and adjust the carb afterwards. This should fix it. Much depends on how much use the unit has had. Little use leads to adjustment of the carb. If it is old and well used, the diagnosis slides over to a fuel system overhaul.

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