spudulike
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Everything posted by spudulike
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Push it back in to place...years left in it
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You can't just ask "will it need retuning" as we have no idea where your saw is maxing out to. The very least you can do is to open the H screw out to the limiter but I have found many 460s and 361s over revving as they have loosened up with age and have had to pull the limiter to get it right. The only way anyone will know is to measure it at max revs and to retune it as and if required. Anything else is whether you will get away with it or not long term.
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OK, from what I am reading, your clutch is aftermarket and 84mm diameter, the clutch drum is 85mm giving only 0.5mm clearance clutch to drum - this is far to small with 2mm being more normal. This is most likely the issue. You mention a 82mm clutch, this will give 1.5mm clearance between the clutch and drum which should work OK as long as the crank thread is the same. Aftermarket parts can be a bit hit and miss but the clearance is far too small - a photo of your clutch may substantiate this.
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BTW, were the clutch and springs new and OEM? If you are using old springs and they are worn or slack, it will let the clutch spin the drum at idle speed.
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If I am reading your post right, your clutch has an OD (outside diameter) 84mm and the clutch drum ID (Inside Diameter) is 85mm. If this is correct, you should have more clearance than 0.5mm around the clutch, more like 2-3mm. The 404 clutch should be part code 1111 160 2003 The 404 7T drum should be 1111 640 2002 The IPL is on this post...it may help Alec.....it is a centrifugal clutch as the force of the clutch shoes is outward, centripetal.....not heard that since A level physics...is inward force hope all is well with you BTW..long time....... 050 051 IPL.pdf
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I gather he has a nice line of alcoholic beverages as well!!
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Glad it worked out OK. Possibly wasn't positioned correctly last time it was apart.
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2nd hole as per the pic (throttle slightly open)
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Sorry, not an area I would go to and I would personally think a muffler mod and your ignition advance would give you the easiest bang for the buck. If you know a little, measure the current squish with soft solder and if you have VERY close to or 1mm or more then the base gasket removal (replace with liquid gasket) is on as long as the original gasket is 0.5mm or less. These three things are relatively easy. If you want, just PM me and I will give you a few tips on simplifying what you do. The best mods are often some of the easy ones - do what gives you the 75% of typical gains from what is available - don't chase the last 5%....you aren't Sir Hamilton or Crashtaphen!
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As ADW said, part of the CST check is the throttle solenoid position at full speed and idle on both Battery and Petrol equipment. Any dealer or outfit with access to CST will be able to do this check relatively easily and advise. I would agree that the throttle may be holding itself open with an ingress of chip or piece of bark etc. You could check this out beforehand if able.
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Seen a lot of cows with calves and even bulls in fields walking around Norfolk. We tend to keep well away and keep an eye out on what they are up to as they always look a bit evil....horses are daft, cows are a bit menacing. I always tell the wife to leg it if they start to chase and if they get too close, smack them on the end of the nose real hard....no idea if I could outrun a cow, google says they go 25mph...I can't see them doing a 200 yard sprint and then laying down a decent pace over half a mile just to catch us and hopefully we will never find out. Agree about the dogs and sheep, if we walk anywhere close to sheep, the dog is on a very short lead and dragged across the field at heel! Also..all gates shut and locked behind us!
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Yes...the splitting impulse tube...my favourite!!! I think Husqvarna made it out of Silicone when Nitrile would have done. Use a bit of big fuel line, done it in the past, just got to make sure the length and diameter is bob on perfect. Make sure you don't clamp the fuel line with the air box divider on reassembly!
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Sweep Stake on When Husqvarna can actually deliver the 592xp Chainsaw
spudulike replied to Jamie Jones's topic in Chainsaws
OK, back on the Christmas card list! -
Sweep Stake on When Husqvarna can actually deliver the 592xp Chainsaw
spudulike replied to Jamie Jones's topic in Chainsaws
Hmmmm -
Sweep Stake on When Husqvarna can actually deliver the 592xp Chainsaw
spudulike replied to Jamie Jones's topic in Chainsaws
Hmmm, you poor old fella....don't tell me it is a little too heavy for you now -
Hope you swerved the import duty
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Sweep Stake on When Husqvarna can actually deliver the 592xp Chainsaw
spudulike replied to Jamie Jones's topic in Chainsaws
You barsteward....you can't do it, you said you loved it...that's it, we're finished -
When I was a kid, the local council spent thousands putting in a shower block on the gypsy camp a couple of miles out of town. Within a few weeks, they had ripped out all the copper pipe and sold it and wrecked the work. To this day, I really don't understand this, I can only guess it was a bit like the gunfight at the OK Coral and it was a battle of who would rip the copper out fastest rather than enjoying a regular hot shower and not to crap in a hole first thing. I agree, there is good and bad in all race, religions etc but guess there is a higher concentration of bad in some of them!
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I would avoid using an unknown seal type as I have seen pistons stuck in the bore and have had to drill them out and pull them out with a screw! The piston spring is a low rate and if the piston is too tight, it will get stuck in one position and makes for poor performance off idle!
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Yes of course. If the piston isn't scored or through the plating to the brass body, I only replace the O ring. I checked, the MS200t ones measure up the same.
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You may get an older rarely used domestic bargain of ebay, Gumtree or local boot sale etc. I have used mine a handful of times but it is well built from the 1980s and does the job. There must be a few coming up from house garage clearances.
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Just checked the parts list on L&S which states both carbs were used so you can purchase either carb or the carb kit for your Walbro carb.
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The IPL I have states the carb to be a Tillotson HU-51c. The story is that Tillotson, an Irish company ran out of manufacturing capacity and Walbro/Zama mopped up and took over most of the business so would assume this manufacturing phenomena happened during the production of this machine. Compare both type of carbs for how the throttle and choke rod attach and where the impulse and fuel unions are. If the same then it was a mid production change. Husqvarna swapped from Walbro to Zama on their 357XP, it does happen!
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I think you will find it is the same as the MS200T...pretty sure of that!
