spudulike
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Everything posted by spudulike
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Same make as the piston I used. I did have one sent in with a VEC top end and TBH, it did have decent compression and ran well. Perhaps use this kit and use OEM circlips!
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Nice job and should last. All us mere mortals have is JB weld which may have worked. The costs of doing this sort of work is why it isn't the usual way of repairing cases...an hourly workshop rate verses the cost of a new part. Looks like a nice job....you may get a load of requests now....may be a new business😉
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The bakelite seal has a flexible material part and that is the other part you show. I use nitrile coated metal seals as they are far easier to fit than the Stihl ones but you have no issues there. Just make sure the bearing plastic needle retainer is intact before you fit the seal and do the pressure and vac tests on assembly.
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BTW, you can pressure check the oil tank relatively easily
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There is no smoke arrestor on the 201. Smoke is generally too much oil in the fuel, usually found on home owner kit. The saw can run rich but there are limiters on the H screw stopping it running too rich....rich means too much fuel mix entering the saw causing it to not rev out correctly...ignore the "too much oil being lean" comments as it is loosely technically correct but not the way anyone involved with two strokes and their tuning would describe "lean". You could turn the H screw all the way clockwise up to the limiter, make sure you are using decent oil 50:1 mix and see how it goes It is possible the saws oil tank is leaking in to the crankcase, not seen this on a 201 but if it still smokes after the above, empty the oil tank fully and run the saw up without the b&c and see if it goes away.
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Still MS201t High, low and idle speed screw settings.
spudulike replied to hesslemount's topic in Chainsaws
The Mtronic version has no holes in the handle or filter cover. If someone has used the incorrect handle on yours.....it has no channels for the wires, no holders for the connection blocks, no connection port for the diagnostics interface and the throttle and choke levers and controls are incorrect. Just fit the correct mouldings rather than lash it up. The Mtronic has no adjustments on idle or L&H, the Mtronic carb and coil deal with it. You can tell which version you have by the small plastic cover and cut out near the oil cap being the Mtronic model! -
Check to make sure your loctite type fills gaps well as some are just for retaining and some fill up small cavities. I reckon you will get away with it unless the new bearings are really sloppy in the cases. If this doesn't work, you may pick up some second hand cases if you are lucky....ebay does work sometimes.
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Loctite 620 or 638 would seem to be about right....638 has a slightly better gap filling performance at 0.25mm!
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Thanks for the flippin Apple movie, taken me 10 mins to view it!! I think I would try degreasing the bearing and its seat in the case and then use a smear of JB weld and let it go off with the bearing in place if the gap between bearing and case is large but if it is relatively close, a Loctite bearing retaining compound should do it. Look for one that will fill a relatively large gap, will work at temperature and is high strength. Don't get any of either compound in the bearing as it will kill it....perhaps stuff it with grease before inserting it to keep the compound out. Let the compound go off fully before reassembly. If this doesn't work then it will be new cases time and may be worth fitting a new bearing when effecting the repair as I have seen worn gudgeon pins in pistons where the alloy has survived and the steel has worn...strange but true!
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OK, missed that bit, is there gun law there
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Let us know when it finally gets resolved. The fact they have admitted bearing failure and are replacing the unit is a very positive result but lets see how long it takes to fulfill the replacement.
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I never understand how neighbours think they have a right to trespass and cut back trees or shrubs without the owners permission. Trespass, criminal damage and replant is the legal process. If you don't go through the legals, I would at least point out the law, how the neighbour has broken it and demand a replant of a tree as close to the size of the dead one....assuming it is a UK case. It depends on how much you like the neighbour but my opinion is that people like that need the law pointed out to them and the lines drawn so they are under no uncertainty that you won't tolerate their idiotic actions.
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Depends on what the saw looks like....I have seen "light use" look like it has been dragged out of a village pond before. If it looks nice, £250 is probably a bit light and would think £250-£320 if the plastics, bottom and stickers are nice and it has a lightly used bar, chain and scabbard. eBay sales generate good prices but you can get done over by ebays lack of love of trusted traders!!
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Mmmm, just checked the piston and it is a VEC one, I probably couldn't get a Meteor one at the time and charged accordingly. Looks like the circlip lasted for a couple of years and let go....didn't last as long as it should but at least it earn't its money back!!
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Dealing with customers and dog shit
spudulike replied to JohnDeere7197's topic in International Arborist Forum
Don't get me going on cat shit, at least the dogs only do it in their own garden and not the neighbours freshly prepared veggie patch!! -
I think I have only done one XPG...Durham for a fella called Scott......if it is this one, it had a new piston in it a couple of years ago as the original one had seized. It may well be fixable again if the bore isn't damaged beyond the normal transfer.
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That looks toast to me
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I am not sure how you got the gig to look at the saw but anyway.....you need to look at the exhaust side of the piston as this side gets the hottest and will show the signs of seize. The inlet side is the cooler side and rarely show seizure marks. The ring isn't visible on the inlet side as the ring ends are often on this side and would snag if they protruded in to the inlet port.
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Just ask him what bit of the job he doesn't want done so he can save £50!!
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The male spade looks like the rear carb heating plate connector on the XPG model....the other two connectors for the kill wire are much lower below the choke lever and not visible. The saw should run without this being connected if it is the heater plate but obviously worth reconnecting. These saws don't tend to cover the plug with fuel so your "fuel not getting to the plug" may be misleading. Usual check is to make sure the plug is sparking and if it is, try a bit of fuel down the plug hole or a squirt of WD40 etc down the back end of the carb. Like others have said, it may be a seized piston but that would be pretty obvious on the recoil handle but worth pulling the muffler off to check.
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You should hang that in your downstairs loo!!!
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If that last pic of the saw is the clutch drum, measure the crank shaft to make sure the shaft isn't shot as that wear looks bad. A few pics of the cylinder damage would be useful.
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The special had closed ports...like this: - SELLING - Husqvarna 365 cylinder | Outdoor Power Equipment Forum OPEFORUM.COM I've got a good Husqvarna 365 cylinder here that came off a running saw that had 160psi compression IIRC. Made by Mahle. Make offer. ...
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It all depends if the ridges are protruding aluminium transfer or scores through the nikasil plating. Most cylinders can be brought back to life if it is just aluminium transfer. The special 365 should have closed transfers, same as the 372.
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As above but as another option, stick a 372 top end on it...the XP and not XTorq....you may need a different manifold and clamp otherwise, enjoy the extra wallop!
