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agg221

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About agg221

  • Rank
    Senior Member, Raffle Sponsor 2013, 2014, 2015
  • Birthday 03/12/1973

Personal Information

  • Location:
    Essex
  • Interests
    Milling timber, growing fruit trees, wooden canal boats
  • Post code
    CB9
  • City
    Haverhill

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  1. Hi All, As per title really, I am looking for information/sources regarding the state of the art in methods for assessment of the progression of decay. Really I am trying to establish at the top level what is used and what it tells you (with what degree of confidence). In this particular instance, I am trying to address a question I have been asked concerning what information it may be possible to gather when considering purchasing particular high value logs for milling, but the information might be more generally useful than this and I couldn't see a previous thread covering it, so it might be useful to collate it at a single point. Alec
  2. Cheers, looks good, details sent. Alec
  3. Steve, not sure if this is what you are wanting but I can take chip in Haverhill, Suffolk. I operate under exemption U12, - use of mulch (I can send evidence of this by PM if required) which allows me to hold up to 100tons. I tend to spread in autumn/winter into spring, so can take large quantities then but am more restricted from sowing through to harvest. Alec
  4. The only trip this engine will be making is to a skip at some point. In the meantime a successful bodge will do nicely. While I'm at it, don't suppose you have any cunning tips for getting the gearstick (hydraulic gearbox) to shift more easily do you? It's almost a two-hand job at the moment, with so much backlash you pretty much have to guess which gear you might be aiming at. Alec
  5. Ah, 'punching up' as I know it from clock repair (where it's generally regarded as bodging). No debris under the cowling, all pretty clean in there all things considered but I was working it pretty hard when it ran out of fuel. I'll keep an eye on it and see how it goes. To be honest, part of me would rather it died in a catastrophic, terminal fashion as that would justify getting a replacement but on the other hand I have a tendency to try to keep these things running when possible and maybe it has a few years left. Alec
  6. You were right - it's the valve seat. I tapped it back in, it started on the first half-crank and ran smoothly for about 30 seconds, when it promptly spat the valve seat back out again. What's the best way to secure it (I'm guessing one of the Hermatite instant gaskets)? Alec
  7. Cheers - where do I uncover the valves on this one? It doesn't appear to be OHV. I can post a picture if it helps. Alec
  8. Any ideas on this one? I have an old Westwood 1200 ride-on with a Briggs & Stratton 12hp engine. It has always been annoying in one way or another - I think in 5yrs of using it I haven't yet been able to walk up to it, start up, cut the grass and put it away without something going wrong, however it's what I have. It semi-seized last year and the pull start packed up so it didn't get any use until around May, when it finally got fixed and serviced with new oil, plug etc. The battery packed up on the next cut and I finally got round to sorting it the Sunday before last. It took a bit of turning over but spluttered into life in the end and then ran fine until it ran dry. Yesterday I fuelled it up and now it flatly refuses to start. It is spluttering, popping and backfiring through the carb. I stuck some carb cleaner through which did no good but did produce bigger flames when it backfires It then rained so I gave up until this evening when I pulled the flywheel to see if the key had sheared - it hasn't. So, I have fuel, air, mix, spark, some compression (can't measure this), oil at the right level and no leaks but ignition timing appears completely wrong, despite the flywheel being set right and there being no sign that the coil has moved (plenty of rust showing no signs of disturbance). Any ideas welcome! Alec
  9. Spruce is decent construction timber - it's the general 'whitewood' you find at builders' merchants. It doesn't absorb pressure treatment very well so there is no particular advantage in buying it from the builder's merchants, performance-wise, unless you are buying it stress graded. However, logs like yours are what big commercial mills are processing all day long, from the big forestry plantations. Yours is unlikely to be better than this and may be worse as open-grown trees tend to retain the branches longer and hence have much bigger knots. For a small miller, they can't really compete with a big mill on timber like this due to economies of scale - their niche comes in handling less common timbers, large logs etc which need a lot more expertise to get the best out of than the automated production lines handling forestry plantation material. I doubt you would get anyone to come and pick it up, but if you dropped it off and it is clean, straight, no likelihood of metal, no side branches or big knots then you might get someone to give you a drink for it. Alec
  10. I run all the above and don't struggle for parts. L&S Engineering have most of them and the saws in the current production range have parts available from Germany. Many of the 090 parts are also still available via this route - the only thing I can't get is the throttle cable for the old style AV model. The 076 requires slightly more care but as the 075, 076 and TS760 were virtually interchangeable and overall had a production run of nearly 35yrs there are a lot of parts still kicking about at dealers, although you may now have to try two or three to find some specific bits. I have built up a bit of a stock but only because I have found them on ebay at very low prices, e.g. £20 for an OEM pot and piston. I agree that the 880 will out cut all of the above (except the 090 in very big wood) but they do have two big plus points. Firstly, the power is derived from torque rather than revs so they don't bog down easily, which is helpful in difficult wood when the cut is wide relative to the saw's capacity and secondly they are very cheap compared with an 880 - you could buy 3x 076 or 2x 090 for the price of a new 880 and being fairly bomb-proof that should certainly keep the average miller going for a while! Alec
  11. I would generally concur with the points made above - for a saw which is going to be used, even just for your own milling, parts availability is key. You can probably afford to wait a week for a part to arrive but you don't want to be stuck for months, waiting for a NLA part to turn up on ebay in the US. The MS880 is obviously the model of choice from the current range, however parts availability is still excellent for the 076, 070 and 090, due to very long production runs which ended fairly recently (the 070 is still in production in some countries as the MS720). You don't mention the size of the timber you plan to process. If it's 2' or under then you would be OK with an MS660/066/064. Again, good parts availability and although they are slower, if you put a 3/8" lo-pro bar on from RobD (chainsawbars) they are surprisingly quick. I use one on the mini-mill and a 25" bar buried full depth in oak is quicker than the main mill at 30" on a big saw with .404" chain. Alec
  12. We stayed in Collioure this year and the thing that surprised me was how good the whites and roses are. This is old vines on rocky terraces so the yield is very low and the flavours are correspondingly intense. We flew, so could only bring back so much (18 bottles in suitcases and I swear my arms are two inches longer!). AOC Collioure seems to be virtually unknown in the UK and nobody seems to want to ship outside France so they will need to last a while. Alec
  13. It's paint. Wood dries a lot faster across the grain than along it so the idea is to block up the pores at the ends to stop them drying out faster, shrinking more than the middle and cracking. Anything that will cover it and block up the ends will do - emulsion, gloss, wax, doesn't really matter. Alec
  14. I am familiar with Stihl models so would go for the 661 but to a large extent I think it is personal choice between these two. It also depends a bit on what your other saws are - the bars are interchangeable from the 261 to the 661 which helps (subject to sprocket). I would be inclined to see if I could do a deal to get the 661 with a 24" bar and make sure it has a rim sprocket (not a spur sprocket). I would then buy a 36" 3/8" lo-pro bar, chain and matching sprocket. The 24" bar balances much better for general work and will allow fairly easy felling up to 48". The lo-pro bar will cut a lot faster for milling. Alec
  15. It is chip, what you do with it is mulch. Mulching is laying down a layer over a surface. I would have a quick chat with your potential 'clients' to find out what they would and would not like. For example, if the allotment holders are looking to form paths then high levels of woody material are most useful whereas if they want to compost it down for use around plants then plenty of leafy matter will go faster. Horse owners may be more picky about what they can and can't use. You may find you can offload most of it, but perhaps into different sites/different piles. Not much extra effort and it will keep the site available a lot longer if your 'customers' are happy. Not many will take blackthorn, hawthorn or holly (you need a farmer for that lot). I use it on an arable field where anything goes and around fruit trees so for the latter I actually welcome thorny stuff as the rabbits don't like it. Alec

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