spudulike

Oh no, this will go on to the old fish theme in a while!!

It probably also isn't a stuck open check valve. This is pretty rare and may have seen only 3 or 4 ever. It sounds like the carb needs adjusting. Using the correct adjuster...the "D" shaped one, wind the H screw in noting how many turns it takes to do so and wind it out 2 & 5/8th turns out. Do the same on the L screw and set this one 1 & 7/8ths out. Your saw should be around 90% there on these settings. You may need a little more on the idle and without a tach, it isn't easy to set the H screw with any further accuracy. If the saw has the paper serial number over the recoil cover...these were a bit unstable, if the serial is laser etched in to the metal, it is a later one and these tend to be better. It is possible the carb has some dirt in the internal gauze strainer, this is very common and worth checking. Blowback through the carb is something you get slightly but the bad cases have been caused primarily through worn pistons and generally through fine dust getting through poorly maintained air filters.

That's an impressive lot of saws. A bad case of CAD I would say!!

All I do on these machines is a muffler mod and a carb retune.....the invoice and charge would have stated this and charged accordingly! Blowback of fuel vapour through the carb is generally down to two things....the piston skirt on the inlet side of the port being worn allowing the port to "Freeport" or the carb being set too rich or it possibly having a stuck open check valve or other carb issues. I would have tuned the max to 13krpm but if the air filter is blocked or something has changed, you could try readjusting the carb unless there are other issues present.

Probably the plastic plug in one....degrease both with brake cleaner and I use a US sealer called "seal all" but you may get away with cyanoacrylate or super glue to the uninitiated. Just make sure you don't get it on the breather parts, just the outer casing.

A belated good spot, most aren't aware there is often a needle adjuster located under a small bung. It often eases a poor idle on some machines.

Not bad little saws, relatively tourqey but no AV so can give you vibe issues in your hands. Not worth a fortune, £80-120. I have one and it was billed as the most popular chainsaw in the US many years ago. It has a halfway house rear to top handle which is a bit strange but relatively comfortable.

Mmm, guess that is in your username....Scottish and a crofter....not from a Manchester housing estate with that job eh!!

Glad it is all done. I always spend a bit of time if I think the coil has failed as new ones are pretty expensive. No idea on the CST cost...around 30 mins I would think with the hard part being separating the connector to plug it in to then you need the coil part code to update. TBH, the info you get off the CST is by far from being definitive for fault finding and have yet to find it useful. The carb settings are usually the most interesting part. For those that have messed with a cars OBD2 fault finding, these saws are around 20 years behind...no disrespect to Husqvarna....saws just have far few sensors and are infinitely less complex.

In my first post I said pretty similar...... "The first photo, sometimes but not always, there is a plastic or soft rubber tiny bung in the brass bit and if you prize this out, there will be a screw underneath which is actually the top of the barrel needle and you can richen the low speed running by undoing it a little. " No disrespect......even my wife has problems keeping up with me, even after 30 years😉

I agree on this, the main trouble is finding someone who is pretty decent and knows what they are doing. Not pushing for the business as I am not doing much now. I guess resealing the crankcase upper to the engineered plastic lower and see how it goes. Make sure the small impulse pipe is connected between the manifold clamp and the carb union and it that doesn't do it....take it to someone who knows their two stroke engines. The blowback through the carb concerns me still as the top end is good .....was the "new" carb an OEM Husqvarna brand new boxed one or secondhand one?

I think we may be digressing....what about dynamite....may as well share it with the neighbours 👍

When you take the lower crankcase casting off, clean both mating surfaces. A very sharp wood chisel is good to facilitate this. Degrease both surfaces with brake cleaner or similar before resealing with liquid gasket. Use a relatively thick coating so if there is any bowing of the plastic, it will seal. I would usually pressure and vac test but it is worth making sure there is no oily residue leaking past the crank seals.

How about a direct hit by a B52 loaded with agent orange....worked in Vietnam!

We had this problem after my darling wife wanted to hide the log store.....two years....cut it down, dig out what you can and spray glyphosate over any shoots....did it eventually! This was the big 15' big leaved feed a panda for life variety!!

Get some pics up as it will make the issue more obvious. If the "C" moulding on the side cover is getting worn away, it may be the clutch has been spinning off on de-acceleration. If the drum has been rubbing on the side cover, I have seen similar from one of the clutch shoes having a damaged retainer allowing it to come off the centre boss although your badly worn needle bearing is possible but difficult to tell without feeling the wear. Post a pic of the clutch and cover, it may help.

In short, I think you have the MK1 coil on a MK2 machine. Mk 1 PT No is 581 72 36-02 MK2 PT No is 582 77 74-01 The programming only happens when you change the carb but the firmware of the autotune in the carb should be matched to the coil part number as the CST (Customer Service Tool) will ask when updating. I think your Part number on your coil starts with 581 but it is difficult to read but am taking this to be the MK1 part code. I don't know if the MK 1 coil will work with the Mk 2 flywheel - probably not. I don't know why the coil is marked "Walbro" as they manufacture carbs and most Husqvarna coils are manufactured by "SEM"! Fit the old coil back, close the gap right up and see if it sparks and check in subdued light...it won't be a big fat spark but will be visible. If no spark, fit a new coil of correct type. My belief is the AT and heated handles get their EMF from the power generator behind the coil. I am sure ADW will fill in the gaps if he can wrench himself away from Sanditon....now Downton abbey has finished!!

The coil may be a bit off, worth checking the gap as coils tend to stop sparking when the gap is a bit big and the coil warms up.

I get most of that sort of stuff from L&S unless you have a decent local business you want to support.

I got a cheap Chinese 24 litre compressor a bit like that SGS one for a bargain £45 delivered. Not sure how it happened but it did and 4 years in, it has been brilliant. A bit noisy but outlasted the Screwfix one that did only 2 years. One thing to remember, big rattle guns need a big feed pipe, the little coily airline pipe won't feed enough air. Apart from that, it will power nail and staple guns, pump up tyres and clean chainsaws via an air line. All arb types should have one!!

On the idle...a little slow perhaps but sounds about right.

It is called "Arbtrader"!

Did you have the chainbrake on in that last vid??? The rim, washer and E clip are missing, I assume you took them off. If the brake was on, re-film it with it off!

Just take the side cover, chain and bar off and see how much wobble there is on the clutch drum.....video it if you like and want an opinion