spudulike

Look me old mucker...In time they leak, and if they leak, I change them. The manual says about pressure testing only but cock all about vacuum testing. This is tosh as I have had saws with idles that are unacceptable but by the word of Husqvarna are fine on the stated pressure only check. They FAILED on MY vacuum check and guess what fixed them....A NEW SEAL!!!! You know how two strokes work, air should only enter through the carb and not leak pressure or vacuum from anywhere else on the engine. I have done enough 346s to know by now......and you know it

I measure the crank in three places and 0.25 of wear is well and truly fooked, 0.15 is on its way, 0.1mm with pitting is ....fit a new bearing, check the drum bearing surface for wear and see what it feels like.....it is not going to get better, that's for sure and is on its way. I don't know the nominal measurement of the crank - Husqvarna don't come up in nice round metric figures! Warning to others - a good regular service by someone half decent.....or a regular new bearing would have saved this happening.....expensive lesson! I can't be 100% sure it is the cause of the spring issue. Unlikely but something has been causing it.

They often get air leak issues on the inlet manifold through splitting or badly re-fitting and also on the clutch side crank seal!

The top pinion is a 346 one....part code 503 89 21-02 The lower one - I can't see the code on it.

Correct part code - 503 91 27-02

The hardened surface of the crank is breaking down so the bearing hasn't been changed often enough. I have scrapped 346s like this as a new crank is £££+ There is wear on the clutch cover where the clutch sits. This is due to the clutch spinning off when the saw de-accelerates. I find it happens on Husqvarnas more so than Stihl and usually take procedures to stop it happening. It is somewhat strange that the semi circular bit in the middle of the cover hasn't worn. It is possible that the damage was caused but the work crankshaft/broken clutch spring/worn clutch rather than the clutch spinning off. If it had spun loose they often re-tighten clamping the oiler pinion and not meshing with it causing damage. Lastly, measure with the ground end of the verniers!!

Looks like the gudgeon pin has worn on one side....measure both ends and compare to the middle. One end will probably be smaller than the others.......strangely, the pin often wears and the piston doesn't. Seen this on old OEM pistons...one a 064 Stihl and also on Nepias 262XP . The actual piston doesn't look too bad. The marking around the exhaust port looks pretty iffy and shows signs of seize. If that ring location pin has fallen out, it won't be holding the ring in place - if the ring is pushed in to the grove, does the pin hold it? if not, it has gone. You usually take out the piston in a big way when they fall out....or they end up embedded in the combustion chamber squish band!

It is usually the clutch that wears and can cause spring issues like this. Drums tend to get two ridges worn on the inner surface and in bad cases, they can burst which isn't nice The inner drum surface should be checked as well as the outer friction part of the shoe and these should be flat. Real old ones form two humps on both edges of the shoe.

Same as if you built an MS200T from parts or probably anything else. I guess it is the distribution costs, elevated margin etc etc......

Good luck with that. Generally most saws have the same parts fail but crack on. The inserts break probably because people take off the inner cover and never refit it correctly. One of those common failures!

Good decision and good outcome! Thanks for letting us know.

Are the bearing and drum OEM or aftermarket? I have noticed the aftermarket springs are pretty iffy at best so the first few may be just that. The clutch will only get really hot if it slips when under load and when knocking the chain-break on at full tilt a few times. If the clutch is good then it really shouldn't get hot enough to damage springs in normal use! If the crank was worn, it would show in the drum being wobbly. If the crank was bent, the saw would vibrate like mad if it did run at all, If the main bearing was shot, the machine would rumble badly and you would feel it if you moved the clutch around. Bit baffling but be assured, there will be a reason for the issue, you just have to find it. Put some pics up of the clutch cover inside and the assembly....it may tell us something.

I believe the general consensus is no body has a clue. The owner thinks he has a 350, the man from the manufacturer reckons 550XP and from the look of the pics, I can see where he is coming from but who knows. I guess it is a bit like not knowing what model of car you drive......." you mean it isn't a mini and you tell me it is a M3 BMW....well...spank me with a kipper!!!!!

Glad it worked out, seems pretty lively, poor little tree

It must be a 350 isn't it....easier to ad an XP then jumble the numbers about and add a 3 and dispose of a 5 No wonder it isn't tensioning correctly If the tensioner is on the clutch cover, it may be a 550, if it is on the crankcase.....it may be a 350 or some other model...who knows!!

Are the pawls straight and free to move plus the springs in good shape?

Looks like a chain has come loose and nipped the alloy but the chain tensioner carriage should keep straight in the channel, even with that damage and can't see how this would make the tension slip. Are you sure you are tensioning the chain properly and the oiler is functioning correctly?

All good, no problem, strong saws and should last a long time.

Maximum revs are 13500 so I would aim for around 13,000rpm as it gives a degree of safety if you get a slight air leak, slight blockage in fuel filter/gauze strainer etc. The saw should always be set with the load of a bar and chain fitted and also with a clean air filter. Get it up to operating temp before setting. You may need to pull out the H screw limiter cap - a wood screw will do it if it is still in - the cap is red in colour. I usually screw the wood screw in, turn it gently anticlockwise until it will go no further (this aligns the small key tab) and then pull it out, turn the H screw anti clockwise 1/2 turn and refit the cap as I don't trust people to fiddle and screw up my setting! You then just rev the saw flat out for a couple of seconds, register the revs and adjust the H screw anti clockwise if too high. This brings in more fuel and acts like a rev limiter for the saw. This model and the MS361 tend to over rev when well worn in and the H caps usually need removing.

As ABBA said...winner takes it all.....Ratman has a fall...........sorry bud, just say it as it is, done one or two 200s now

This pic isn't OEM, too polished/turned around the inlet mount, no numbers on the plate by the plug hole and the piston has a laser etched arrow, not a stamped ID.....that would worry me!

Oh.....you also have a plug insert of some sort on that cylinder of yours....not that it matters.

Just go to L&S and purchase an OEM kit. This is a working saw, you want top compression and performance. Most AM kits are pretty suspect and if you think paying £40 more for a kit on a saw that will earn you that back in the first two hours is too much, you need a psychologist and not a mechanic. So to recap - I said check the piston and cylinder in my first response. On finding the split boot, I said the piston and cylinder will be shot...we are ten days on and my track record has been pretty good. If you want the saw back to good working order, OEM boot, OEM cylinder kit and I would do the accelerator pump in the carb for good measure but is up to you as it is a bit tricky to do. The OEM kit is not bad value and will give you the best running saw plus will last years if set up OK.....it makes sense and you pay cheap, you pay twice. If you phone and plead poverty, they may give you a bit of a discount....... You can go the Stubby route, it is the way I used to do it but the supply of Meteor pistons has dried up plus you need to purchase a hone and know how to use it etc.....BUY A NEW OEM KIT!!! Cylinder With Piston 40 mm for Stihl MC200, MS200T - 1129 020 1202 | L&S Engineers WWW.LSENGINEERS.CO.UK Cylinder with piston 40 mm Genuine Stihl Part OEM Part No. 1129 020 1202 Suitable for the following Stihl...

The guy has fitted a good carb from a working machine otherwise I would agree with you. In my first post I did say remove the muffler and look at the state of the piston as many are shot now. The split inlet boot would have seized the piston and it is rare that the inlet bot splits and the owner stops using the machine immediately......most seize the saw in my experience! So....check the state of the piston!

He is playing B A and G so suspect it will be based on the G chord but no idea exactly what it is.