spudulike

Great track!

Got my Toms (cherry and normal), peppers and courgettes in a heated propagator yesterday. Hoping that this spring will be as early as the last few years and will get early crops off them. Will be careful with late frosts but will see how it works out!

I think it would have to be a thick washer from the wear on the clutch

From the wear on the clutch, it looks like the clutch isn't sitting inside the drum as it should. This could be down to the clutch drum not meshing with the pinion correctly - sometimes happens when the machine is spooling down, the clutch unwinds itself and then winds back up in the wrong position - seen it when the clutch has been removed and not tightened up really hard once refitted. You could grind the high part off the clutch but may be better to refit a new one. Here is how it should look: - note the clutch sits INSIDE the drum!

It looks like the clutch doesn't completely sit in the drum from the wear on the clutch.

Only seen that once before when the guy power jetted the saw and then left it and the needles rusted the crank. Look at the clutch under a magnifying glass looking for damage to the hardened surface and feel for notches and if they are present, swap it out. L&S do sell aftermarket parts but mostly for Stihl machines. If the spare came in a Husqvarna bag or it was advertised as being OEM then it will be. They are a reputable company purchasing from the manufacturers directly. Do you over tighten your chain? Grease is usually thrown off the bearing in seconds so unlikely to be the issue. Most likely getting too hot because of leaving the brake on or excessive chain tightness.

That is how it is....you asked, I gave and now you do

Interesting, never seen anything like that before!

If the chain is spinning on at low revs then it is likely to be clutch springs, knackered needle bearing, something binding between the clutch drum and clutch or the clutch having spun off and then tightened without being meshed with the oiler pinion correctly. Springs are spring steel - they can all crack including the forking great springs on your car!!

Running on? Are the revs elevated or are we saying the chain is spinning on low revs. Check the clutch springs, perhaps one has gone and check the needle bearing as well seeing as it failed before.

http://www.acresinternet.com/cscc.nsf/ed1d619968136da688256af40002b8f7/74993d6bb263f3d988256b52001a10de?OpenDocument I got on of these off eBay once, lovely condition, think I shipped it to France in the end. Nice machine!

I think Gardenkit ran a strimmer on straight petrol once and I am not sure he ever made it seize. It was 2T but, because strimmers run at lower revs than saws, it lasted a surprisingly long time. No idea on your 4T machine but I would load it up with the correct fuel and see what happens. Hopefully it will continue to work .....if you are lucky! It is a bit pointless stripping it all down if the thing is running OK and not showing any issues.

The saw has been designed as it is so you must be missing something and wouldn't recommend grinding springs etc. There is a bloke on this site by the name of "Echo". Not sure if it is bravado or he actually works for the company. Perhaps he can assist. Other than that, you need to compare another machine that works with yours and look for differences. I don't get enough in to know but I can say that the manufacturer didn't make it that way. Was the spring the correct one? If it was to long in its compressed state, that would do it.....I know grinding off.......it is a safety device....get it wrong and the 2 mins of bleed out up a tree don't sound good!

No, Sold it on ebay years ago...ended up a nice saw and saw it up for sale again years later!

Sometimes it is best just to get on with it. The muffler could have been stuck back on the saw and then sent back but...you want a 200T................. one with a new top end will be a damn site better than most of the eBay ones that will have cheap Chinese top ends.A new top end makes soooooo much difference to these saws! Get a new top end, strip it, clean it, replace all the iffy parts and you will have a decent saw and one that you know what it is made of. It will take you days to try to get it sent back....just make it in to a real nice saw.

I'm getting too damn old to pull em over!!

You would be surprised by most owners total disregard toward knowing how their machines work. As I said earlier, I get ALL sorts in and many have some major issues that will magically disappear if I port the machine!!! I find it unbelievable but there you go - how someone didn't hear a big end with 2mm up and down play God alone knows - you could see an impression of where the piston had hit the squish band on the cylinder! I reckon the guy probably didn't know about it but knew something was a bit iffy with it. eBay is likely to side with the buyer as that is what they do, bad for an honest seller but it is the beast eBay is. The guy now knows what the issue is! The options are to strip the saw down and circa £85 will stick a new OEM top end on it...L&S have them in stock. Just get it leak down tested before using it or make sure the impulse and inlet boot are OK, the seals are pretty reliable TBH. The other option is to go back through eBay.

It is always the best way and was in no way saying you weren't. I was offered a tidy 064, gave the land owner my price explaining that I would need to give it a going over before selling on and said they could get a far better price selling it on eBay or to others but.....it came my way and sold it to a very good friend and it is his best saw. I got lucky on that one but gave the owner the option and the info to make a rational decision. I guess you could ask if they would sell 1 or two rather than all of them but there is a very fine line between being decent and being pushy.....just hope they don't get done in the future!

Oh....I forgot the 372 in for porting in "Nice condition".....main bearings rumbling like a belly full of gherkins and an aftermarket crank

If you want them, offer to give a donation to a charity of their choice, explain that the saws have a good value and that you are happy to purchase at a good market value as you are concerned that someone less scrupulous than yourself may not be so open and honest with them. I can see the family getting offered a silly amount at a time when they need it and getting peanuts for them!!!

Try sticking your tongue on the plug, pull it over and tell me that spark is weak DO NOT DO THIS - I am joking!!!! Get an old plug - bend the electrode away from the central electrode - 45 - 60 degrees and try it again. If it sparks then there is probably very little wrong with it. Check the coil to flywheel gap - That is the 0.3mm air gap ADW mentioned but you can take it down a little to help if the magnets are a bit shot (A4 paper is one method), done this a few time on old saws. It probably has other issues you can close the plug gap up a little to half what it should and this can help diagnose issues but it is much more likely to be a compression or carb issue! These saws are well worth doing, 54cc and very light and powerful!

And the crank seals put in the wrong way round....gotta love them!

I have rebuilt hundreds of these machines and most owners haven't a clue as to what condition their saws are in, what has been done to them, when they were last serviced etc. I have had in the last two weeks - 357XP for porting - circa 2mm up and down play on the big end, MS660 for port and plug insert....Chinese top end, badly split intlet manifold, badly leaking crank seal and air leaks from screw turrets under the flywheel, MS661 for porting......Badly split inlet manifold and oiler pinion falling apart, MS200 with all OEM parts recently rebuilt by another outfit but wasn't running (oh...a four year wait for repair!!!)......cheap damaged Chinese top end......and so it goes on. The seller of this eBay saw knew it wasn't quite right but probably didn't know what was wrong. Loads of power etc was a bit off the truth and you should get your money back as he has described it incorrectly and it has a fundamental fault. I wouldn't kid yourself that any of the kit on eBay is any better. There are many that will use the cheapest top end as it will be £60 in their pocket and they will have little care that you will have less power and less life from your saw. As for repair, if you fit AM parts, it should be listed and if you say it is OEM then it MUST be OEM and charged accordingly. These Facebook fellas that know it all and "Only use OEM parts" are chancers at best! One of them supplied a 346XP to a customer, lasted 10 mins and I was asked to fix it as the last one I did lasted 5 years + without issue......pisses me off when the seller of the 346 gets away with it...not good.

As others have said, it is toast....burnt toast! The availability of quality AM pistons is very difficult at the moment and am personally just using OEM top ends on all seized MS200s that's come in now. If the owner has sold it as used and working, you have a comeback, if he has described it as bogging, he may argue that he didn't know it had seized. Most don't if the rings are still free as the saw still works! You have to look at the rest of the saw to take a view on spending on it. Looks well used and dirty but most are now!

I take it you have checked the piston for scoring?