spudulike
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Everything posted by spudulike
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No, as soon as you start the saw, it will burn off very quickly and the saw will be much easier to pull over after that. All the oil is doing is seeping around the rings and piston making it seal extremely well rather than allowing a bit of leakage as it will do once burnt off.
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I would get some thin metal plate, make myself a new plate to fit over the complete damaged area, drill the front and rear edges and drill holes through the saws casing and then use JB weld to stick the plate in place and use small self tappers to fix it also. Just make sure you are drilling in to a void not the coil or oil tank etc and make sure the self tappers are short and won't protrude too far through the casing. Damage like this is usually caused by putting the saw down heavily on to something solid like a stone on a concrete hard-standing, If it happens again, it may well go through and then it may be more difficult to fix....stitch in time and all that!
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Ah, you are a capitalist then .....I think I still have the remains of some of your 020s lurking in the depths of my garage.
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I thought you hated them
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Is the saw easy to pull over with the plug out? It is probably the oil you put in the bore on reassembly that has increased the compression to a point it gets very difficult to pull over.
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Well it doesn't look in bad condition. Check out the top end, carb refurb, check the clutch drum and springs, pressure and vac check and should cut your firewood. It will be 1977 - circa 1987.....so only some 40 years old!
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We shall see, time will tell but seems an odd way of scamming people!
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I don't recall anything beginning with anything but "1"....most of the MS200ts are "16" or "17"....obviously the "17"s are the later ones...around 2010. No idea on the numbers quoted but looks to be mid 70s to early 80s......Glam rock to new romantics!
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Introduced 1977 but not sure of the discontinuation date, must be mid 80s. http://www.acresinternet.com/cscc.nsf/ed1d619968136da688256af40002b8f7/5f352eae1aecdc9288256ba20048eb6b?OpenDocument
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How about a pic of the saw and the serial...it may speak a thousand words!
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What sort of saw is that? It cant have been manufactured in the last 30 years or so!
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Drill the broken stud and use an easy out to remove them, just make sure it is a decent drill and a decent quality stud remover as some are pretty mediocre by anyones standards. The biggest issue is if the drill wanders in to the softer alloy as that will be bad news. I have seen snapped ones on 395/390 top cover but not the recoil cover.
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Chainsaw ht km pole pruner attachment problems
spudulike replied to Chainsaw will's topic in Chainsaws
You need to pull out the pump and clean, it is a small cylindrical affair and pulls out from the bottom. Easy once you have done a number of them! -
Sorry ADW, I used to own a 345 and have done a fair few 350s so know this range well. It was the 245 thing that threw me and thought I would leave it to you
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Ah, 345, the common places to get air leaks are the base of the top cylinder where it meets the engineered plastic lower crankcase cradle, the inlet manifold can split around the impulse nipple connector on the inlet manifold or the impulse line can come off where it joins the manifold clamp or the plastic plate the carb screws in to. If the air leak was pretty fast in happening, it is likely to be the impulse connector or possibly the manifold but if it was much slower in happening, the cylinder base is more likely.
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It is this one and got it from this place, best price I could get it for on the day. Happy with it but cant say I regularly use it - wash the car and clean the drive/patio in the spring sort of use! Nilfisk Excellent E145 Pressure Washer - Easter Sales - CleanStore WWW.CLEANSTORE.CO.UK Nilfisk Excellent E145 Pressure Washer Power, Efficiency & Reliability The Nilfisk Excellent E145 model is a highly mobile, user-friendly pressure washer in Nilfisk's Excellent...
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ADW may have a bit of info on the saw type and likely areas to look at. Probably easier than doing a full vac and pressure leak test. He is probably busy with his Downton Abbey box set on a Sunday night
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And calm......hopefully you can cut some wood now
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So, the choke mechanism is in the RUNNING position and the throttle linkage is resting on the idle screw conical part around 1/2 way up....as ADW asked. If it is doing this and then either the L screw is set a bit lean, you have a partial blockage in the fuel system just giving enough fuel for the saw to run or you have an air leak. If you can wind the idle screw right out and the saw is still racing, the saw has an air leak and if you can wind the L screw all the way in and the saw still runs, you have an air leak.
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Bet he was on the dance floor every time Shalamar came on
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Then all should be good unless there is a manufacturing issue that we are not aware off! Did you change the pinion?
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I mean the drum will pull in and out on the crankshaft which is normal but wear in the shaft or bearing will allow the drum to wobble on the crankshaft like if you put a ball bearing under the centre of a dinner plate.....well how else do I explain what I mean It will....wobble!
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Things like this always look great but in everyday situations, offer very little. I would rather do it once, slowly, bit of grease on the tap (or tallow for the old school toolmakers) .....get it straight and right rather than crashing through it and as Alec said....no good for blind holes!
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There should be a bit of end float on the drum but it looks like you also have a bit of play in the bearing as when the drum is pushed in, you seem to have more clutch protruding on one side than the other. Check the state of the pinion where it contacts the drum.
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I think you may have diagnosed the fault.....try another spark plug!
