Fredward
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Everything posted by Fredward
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Cool thanks Ive seen those charts before but looking for a definitive answer as to which hardware goes where
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We use pine cones from Monterey Pines, they are mostly closed when collected but once dried they open up and work well with paper to get the fire going
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Mine is pretty worn after 2 years! But I use the lower rings for lanyard 98 percent of the time. I got the replacement parts but havent fitted yet, looks straight forward enough..
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Trying to understand rigging forces and using a block and pulley as a redirect.. The wider the rope angle the less force on the pulley/block? So if you were rigging and had a lower anchor point 'A' on the trunk of a tree with 120degree rope angle and point B on a side branch with an angle of 90 degrees, then the block should be at the top with the smaller pulley for redirect on the trunk or the other way around?
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Interesting posts guys. I have also heard of using Trichoderma, not sure if it was for Armilleria but I supose it would work the same way against every fungus?
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Cool vid. Interesting tool, but in the tree I prefer no hardware, just knots - I don't think it's really much slower, half hitch, running bowline.. But on the ground it can be a pain to undo. It looks heavy and bulky to me, but you worked well with it. Nice work getting the hi-ab in for the heavy stuff. Must have been counting the expense in your head when the big saw went blunt though! I've found a stump can make or break a job at times! I'm always happy when I don't it something!
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Unfortunately there is no real treatment to get rid of the Armillaria - once established in the soil all you can do is dig out effected roots/stumps/soil and replace. Short of that probably want to leave unplanted for a year or so then replant with a suitable species - Yew, Ash, Oak & Beech all have some resistance I believe. I've heard of people creating soil barriers with thick polythene in a trench, to stop the spread underground, but obviously you want to plant right next to the old stump.
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I left my brand new Blue tongue in a Eucalyptus once. I was climbing over two days, I used my 45m B.T at the top of the canopy, (it was close to 45m to the tips), I ended up moving my anchor down a bit, then decended as far as I could on the B.T, then swapped to my 30m rope to get to the ground, and swapped that for a throwline. I didn't feel good climbing back up my B.T, I was worried a possum might have been nibbling on it over night!
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Brilliant thread! I do about 60% of the cooking at home.. My speciaility dishes are: Spag bol Beef/chicken currys with home made garlic naans Also knock up... Meatballs Meatloaf Meat.. Beef burgers Chicken kiev Toad in the hole Taco's are always good.. Wifey made saussie rolls for the lunchbox one week - I remarked that the ones at the bakery were good....er than hers. I haven't got any treats for my lunch since. Home alone tonight so off to B.K!
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thinking of trying SRT, got a few questions...
Fredward replied to jrose's topic in SRT (Single Rope Technique)
Is your rope a single braid? Not sure mechanical ascenders are particularly well suited but I think they work. I have found it a bit awkward advancing my rope on SRT, what Mark suggests obviously works but not sure about safety when it comes to choking off biners, in terms of side loading/rubbing gates etc. If I'm gonna use SRT I normally throwline in and don't change my TIP but do use redirects. I use base anchors if pruning or removing deadwood, probably switch to top anchor for removals. It is easy to take the wrench off but hitches behave very differently with and without the wrench and srt/drt, if you are switching in the canopy you would need to test your system whilst having a second tie in. -
Usually when they predict a weather 'bomb' over here, we get a bit of drizzle and enough wind to make the washing line turn round a bit.. Then out of no where with no prediction we get a massive storm uprooting trees.. I'm giving up looking at forecasts more than a day in advance.. It was meant to rain all this week and we've had about 10mm last night and thats it!
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Agreed. Drive it 'till the wheels fall off, then get another one! Some people change cars more often than I change pants, but I can't see the appeal as you have to shift the old one, or trade it in; and therefore get your bum-hole infiltrated.
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I have a small Echo rear handle that I guess is not a commercial grade model but has been used a fair bit commercially. I think that Echo's price, warranty and engine/carb's are the strong points, some of the other stuff can be a little flimsy. Mine has only really had problems with the chainbrake assembly, and the dogs snapped, but they are replaceable. My mates Echo top handle has broken AV mounts, this is a problem with the Shinny's too... I like it though - I pick it up, it starts, most of the time the chainbrake works, but it does require good maintenance regimes. Cuts okay but has it's limits The parts are real cheap but availability isn't the greatest. I REALLY wanted one of the new top handles but they are holding stock back over here, probably to try and sell the old model first, so bought a T540xp.
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Did you try messaging kevin?
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Try windmilling your arms (both in same direction) to force blood to your hands. You have to do it pretty furiously but it works, might not be easy in the tree unless you've got a good perch with plenty of room. I saw Bear Grylls do it and it works for me.
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I learned to sharpen by cutting railway sleepers! 4-6 cuts max before it was time for a sharpen, and thats after picking the stones out of the sleepers with a screwdriver and a wire brush
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Most polite and efficient way to chase late payment.
Fredward replied to mowandgo's topic in Business Management
There is always the option of taking a deposit on larger jobs or if you think the client may difficult. -
Most polite and efficient way to chase late payment.
Fredward replied to mowandgo's topic in Business Management
Take a look at this article that had data from a study on payment times. https://www.xero.com/small-business-guides/invoicing/invoice-payment-terms/ If you want to get paid within 30 days then the best payment term to write on the invoice is 13 days. I put 14 on mine because I don't like the number 13! But, if you are only invoicing once a month, then the jobs from the first week of the month likely wont be paid until the last week of the next? I try to invoice within 5 days, sometimes the same day. Speed of payment is sometimes related to customer satisfaction, but often not. Even very happy customers can forget, I haven't had many clients thsat have been payment dodgers, only one recently which was a rental property owner, just got paid for a job in September, but was low value so didn't chase it hard. Anyway, that website has some good tips, such as adding late fees. -
Interactive Pine key: Pine key
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Yeah, have you gaffed a rope before? It doesnt usually make much of a mess of the rope
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Stunning! Are you selling it or for personal use?
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Chuck them into the embers of the fire wrapped in foil (doubled up is a good idea), and tell the kids they are dragon eggs! Works good if you get the timing right.
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Depending on where you are working and who you are working for, I'd say the trees over here might likely be smaller!
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My knees were wobbling watching that. Probably the first 20m was the most dangerous though
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I've had Naka, Zubat and Gomtaro - I think I like the Naka best, not been getting on with the Gomtaro, although I have an extra blade so will have to endure! Zubat was good but a little too curved for some tight cuts. Does the Naka scabbard have rollers yet? That was the only reason I switched was my old Naka used to chew up the scabbard and was hard to put away. Benefit of the Gomtaro or any straight symetrical saw is they go in both ways, which a curved wont, can be handy when your down-side-up and hanging onto a bit which looked light but wasn't.
