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Fredward

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Everything posted by Fredward

  1. Very interesting post, as usual! Can you enlighten me as to the reasons behind not decompacting all of the root plate? Also did you consider the effect that the woodchips may have on nitrogen levels? (even though it had started decomposing)
  2. Looks nice and even, good shape but too thin for my liking. Looks as if you've taken a bit much of the inner canopy but hard to tell from the pictures really. I'm sure most customers would be pleased with your work, I usually get told I haven't taken enough hehe.
  3. These are referred to as 'bundle' trees, and from the photos it looks as if the tree on the right is being muscled out, but is reacting to the presence of the other tree developing the cusioning. Because the tree on the right is leaning away and displaying signs that it is subject to the forces put on it by the tree on the left, I would imagine this tree would have more failure potential. From the photo's it is apparent that the top is missing from the tree on the right, which would reduce the failure potential although it also appears to have a large branch out in the plane of the lean which wont be helping. They have both grown with each others company, and have optiomised their structres based on this situation, I would imagine removing one or the other may have an impact on the remaining tree, but this would be lessened by the sheltered nature of the surroundings. I think my stance would be to remove the tree on the right, based on aesthetics and in the interest of saving the tree on the left, but I would be interested to hear other opinions.
  4. Wont a pulley increasing wear as there is more friction at the device?
  5. This thread went a bit quiet.. But I've reading, and I've been looking.. I've known about this Dawn Redwood for a while and always admired it but never thought too much about what caused it to grow like this.. The site is next to a netball court, it obvisouly has been climbed alot (me included), and some compaction from foot traffic. It's not being overly suppressed by the surrounding trees, but possibly was at some stage? What does it's body language tell us, other than it has been pruned poorly!? Appologies for the quality, the lighting was shart.
  6. The remaining canopy looks nice; was the epicormic growth also completely dead?
  7. Warm water then compressed air to clean and dry, then graphite for my DMM's, but seems like once they start sticking, it comes back not long after.
  8. Great video, very interesting work, the industry (or society) is obviously advanced in the UK compared to elsewhere. Here in N.Z there would be (almost) no market for such work, hazardous trees are removed and I think people might consider a dead tree left as a monolith: a) an eyesore b) a waste of potential firewood! I have to admit I've seen them done on here a few times and had mixed feelings, but after seeing this one, a while down the track I'm pretty convinced. Would be great to do one but I can't see anyone paying me for it.
  9. No problems, it is never easy to deal with customers requests like this, and unfortunately they are not and easily pruned tree. I think the tree will survive if you wanted to make it a pollard, but decay will set in fast on this tree and the massive epicormics will be there in no time. It sounds like you may be able to directional prune away from the house but maybe not. Someone else will no doubt come in and pollard it if you walk away, but it is up to you what ethical desicision you make. I simply don't top trees becuase I was taught not to, but that's just my personal opinion.
  10. I agree with the comment about font/size/style/colour, I think that it should be 1 font, 3 sizes max and 2 colours, it lacks a little continuity, but it gets the message across. I also feel some of the pictures are obviously quite dated, although that shows you've been around for a while the newer photo's look obviously more professional to me.
  11. Oh an Echo and Shindaiwas have great engines, much not so ergonomic and can be fragile with AV mounts too. I would LOVE to try out the new Echo top handle looks awesome and I wanted one instead of the Husky but not available in NZ yet.
  12. My 2 cents: I have used 020's 200t's 201t's 192t and I own a 540xp. I think the older saws are the best if you can get your hands on a decent one i.e ms200t. I like the 540xp, although it can b a pain to start if you don't use it often in the tree (good for dismantles but not so fun for pruning). I have also seen (only on here) how they pull themselves apart if you like throw them down onto your tool lanyard. I don't like the 201's so much, I find the power is embarrasing and the chainbrakes require alot of attention to keep them functioning. I like the 198t and this would be my second choice after the Husky, a good mid size saw, nice to use but a little undersized for larger jobs.
  13. Do you mean Albizia julibrissin? Some people call a mimosa something else? They are very hard to reduce, becuase they naturally lion's tale. I wouldn't recommend hard reductions (topping), they sprout furiously and can be a pain to restore later, they have very weak branch attachments on normal collars, let alone epi's. Personally I would selectively take out the taller top and lateral branches to thin and slightly reduce, but can be hard because the canopy is often very uniform and nothing really protrudes. Would a decent thin not help? Sometimes you can directionally prune them away from structures.
  14. Not sure if they are easy to get hold of (pardon the pun) in the UK, but I love Showa Assembly Grip They are thinner than any grip glove I've used before and I don't have any problem tieing knots, or getting the rubber sucked into the prussic. Quite grippy when you first use them but they wear in to be quite smooth. They don't grip like the rubber gloves but they protect your hands and feel like a second skin. Last a while but get quite smelly so I usually chuck them before they wear out anyway; alternatively you can soak them or put them in the washing machine.
  15. Yeah, good call, my life is worth more than a few quids worth of cord! On a side note, I have some 10mm OP to splice, can anyone explain how to work out the strands to pull for taper? On the AP I just did 5,5,5,5.. But if the cord is over 20 strand it should be 5,4,5,4? How do I calculate how many strands in the cover?
  16. Wow Tommy that's exactly what i did/didn't do! Now you mention it I remember seeing the cover bunched up when I marked it, that's what you get when you splice in a hurry! It was really annoying me that I couldn't think what I had done wrong.. Should I bin it?
  17. Hi there, first post but I've been lurking here for a while. I'm reasonably new to splicing but I've got a few under my belt now (brummels, 16 strand class 1's). Yesterday I was splicing some AP polyester, this is the second e2e I have made of this and the first one went very well. On this particular e2e my first splice went good, the second one was a bit odd. I guess I might have been trying to go faster as I was getting familiar with the process. When it came to the final bury all seemed well but suddenly I noticed the eye was geting very small, and my cross over wasn't buried. I managed to bury the cross over without the eye closing up, but not by much. I also couldn't see my mark where the eye was supposed to finish like I normally can. It's possible it rubbed off or possible that I just marked the eye too small (I find this hard to believe as I've done a few splices now). Also the cord ended up 50mm shorter than anticipated. I did the first splice then held the cord up against my last e2e I made and marked it so it was meant to be the same length. I'm wondering if I did something fundamentally wrong or just cocked up measurements? The cord came out looking nice (just short and a very tight eye) but will the strength be compromised? I have used the yale whip/lockstitch but considering throwing it away now. Can post photos but there isn't much to see!

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