Fredward

Hahaha... what the hell... trying to work out if ANYONE is being serious in this thread?! I see a tree with normal 'armpits' under branch attachments and probably some yellow lichen?!!

Oh and I'm stealing the technique with the long tailed running bowline chogging down the stem.

Nice mate - 50mins of video or 50mins to do the whole thing?! I love how you tie the alpine butterfly, smooth!

Yes it was the original. Somehow went through the factory without recieving the retaining screw as far as I can tell.. I did not take it apart so can't be 100%, but on putting it together I had one screw missing and couldn't wind a screw in as there was apparently no thread in the white plastic peice. I gave it to the dealer who sorted it out pretty quick, but I'd already paid for the new band. I could have fixed it myself by forcing a screw in, but wanted to make the dealer aware - he didn't seem too concerned however. I'd noticed that the brake wasn't holding the chain completely still when engaged, towards it's failure.

My take on it is slightly different. For starters if you are removing such are large limb from the tree I would imagine this would comprise more than 30% of the foliage, which is going to detrementally impact the tree anyway. Also if you cut back to a stub, even if it regrows with epicormics, it will not compartmentalise. The decay will be met with less resistance at a stub than at a collar due to a lack of barrier zones. The decay will engulf the stub and will have a higher chance of penetrating the barrier zones in the collar (admitedly at a much later date) because it will have gained momentum devouring the stub. I think you shoud avoid removing the limb if there is an alternative, but by leaving the stub you are delaying the inevitable. Some pictures would be great, the tree sounds big!

Thats for eye to eye not a loop, not that it makes any difference.

I was taught 7 times the cord diameter, but I don't think any of mine are more than 3-4 times.

Nice, I like the FAQ.

Love the 3rd photo, despite it being crooked!

Next time you are cleaning down it might be worth taking the cover off the mechanism for the chainbrake. Mine failed on me whilst in a tree, turned out that there was no retaining screw (or thread) where the one is pictured below. Consequently the U shaped part was stretched out to the point of snapping.

In my experience dead trees and large logs can stay moist inside for a long time. I cut a macrocarpa log that had been windblown for 5 years and youd of thought it was felled last week. It could be dry, but dont bank on it. Price it as if you have to biff it, then if its dry its a bonus.

I never used a hitch climber but with a VT and micro pulley I mostly found myself setting the hitch by hand. I think however the diameter of rope and friction cord in the picture might be an influential factor.

Oooh would be good to be the first!!

Looks great! I want one, have you sent any to NZ?

Have done a few jobs snatching palm trunks, not all that fun, especially for the climber.. Found that you gotta cut notches into the trunk where the half hitch or termination knot is to stop them slipping when it drops into the block... And its alot heavier than it looks! Cut up rings into 4 or even 6 peices to lob it in the truck and then pay lots of money to dump it all. Then clean up all the crap that comes off them.

Nice work Jake, was the rigging rope new or used?

I know what you mean i think i worked out based on the samson measurements the shortest e2e cord you can do is 1m or so. A friend attended a workshop and was told you cant splice a short e2e but I bet lots do. Ive done around 670mm from memory, but dont think you could do much shorter as the buries would touch. It does make it more difficult but not impossible. I dont do them anymore as only really works for a VT as most of the cord is very stiff, and now climb on on a knut. I dont recall changing any measurements. I found 8mm orange AP best for splicing.

Doesnt Lime sprout like a loony?

Just so that you have a contradictory opinion, I'm going to say stick with the smaller jobs that you don't feel the need for qualifications and insurance for. I've had to learn to say 'no' to clients (as well as friends) when someone else has under quoted me becuase they want the wood. The person taking the wood is usually mugging themselves (waste wood really has little or no value, and the amount of labour to process it means you earn very little per hour, assuming it's being sold). The only person who wins is the client who gets a cheap job done. Even if you get your quals, you'll probably under sell yourself. If it's a small fell, with no risk - fine, do it for the wood, most arb crews wont make much money on a job like that anyway. But when you get into doing dismantles and climbing, and something goes wrong - you'll wish you hadn't done it so cheap! Replacing a cut rope, or a broken saw, or fixing someones fence - can take all the fun and profit out of a job if you don't charge a decent rate. Plus you will learn that doing climbing work you will need a rescue climber on site, that is unless you don't value your life of course! But if it's something you enjoy, and you want to improve your skills and knowledge then go for it, no one can tell you otherwise, but don't do it to help your mates because I've found working for mates is the thing I avoid the most!

Yes, but you either want an adjustable one like the Petzl, or make one to the length of the stride you take. I don't use them but I assume youd measure from your foot with knee up to base of hand ascender.

Bluetooth/wifi jet wash. Bloody hoses and leads do my head in.

I made one out of ply and 50x75mm treated pine, with a 1/3 roof made of ply (not in this photo) which is hinged so gets propped up when chpping. Bolted to existing side boards. Works okay but will still more expensive than I thought, and not really big enough. I would have made it higher but the headboard didn't allow.

Yeah I've seen it used as horse bedding, both dust and shavings.

This splitter was originally a 3 point (I think), a customer or mine put the splitting unit on a trailer which he built, with a hydraulic tank, ready for a motor and pump but I found it rusting on his property so did a swap for some chipping/cash. Ended up paying more than expected for one extra hose and linkage for the tractor, a new (old) tyre, paint etc. Took off the tank and my old man welded on the grates for extra storage. Had it running today for the first time, put a big smile on my face splitting anything I could throw at it effortlessly. Not a speed demon but faster than expected. I think the ram is 30t but thats just what I was told, could be wrong! Cost us about 300 of your english pounds. Only think would would be better is it limited to medium/large logs, the extra deluxe size logs my brother in law likes don't quite fit. Oh and the control doesn't have an auto return.

Catalpa, Paulownia. More in relation to tie-ins and walking on branches than cutting.