Fredward

I decided to write this review as it might be helpful for those looking for a cheap entry to the BT comms world. I would have bought mine a lot sooner if I’d known which set to buy and how to set up. I wont go over the benefits but they are huge. Have dreamt of a pair of Senas for a few years now, but found it hard to justify the cost. There was Chinese versions available but still ½ to 2/3 of the price (we get overcharged for electronics in NZ). Someone put me onto aliexpress.com and so I ordered these waterproof ones for 1/6 of the cost of the Senas (I saw the same model on Amazon UK), the name is 'BT-S2'. Bear in mind we've only used the comms for two days, and a few days on my own streaming music from the Bluetooth - but I haven’t been disappointed. When using saws/chippers, the microphone will cancel out much of the noise, you will hear the saw rev up initally, and then then volume is reduced by the unit. If this is still annoying it’s easy to put the units in standby mode until someone is ready to talk. With the mic boom tucked inside the helmet the person can be heard clearly in a quiet working environment. If using saws/chippers then the mic can be pulled down closer to the mouth and the person can be heard talking over the equipment (distorted but audible). Haven’t tested range in a clear line of sight, but used today in two separate properties separated by the road, and could still communicate. The units were approx. 50-60m apart with buildings and trees in the way. Unsure on the lifespan, but saw a video on YouTube of someone submerging the unit in a bowl of water whilst turned on. Pros Cheap in comparison to Senas Can link 3 units together Clear comms Bluetooth link to phone for streaming music/calls Battery life more than enough for full days work (haven’t tested much longer) Range acceptable Easily installed Water ‘resistant’ or water-proof depending what you read Automatic noise cancelling Has a separate port for aux and an aux cord supplied Has FM radio Not bulky, wires easy to hide No battery to knock off Cons Can’t pair more than 3 units Music streamed to one set doesn’t seem to stream to all units (may not be impossible but I haven't figured it out.) Range somewhat limited Takes a second or two switching between ‘modes’, and switching units on and off is a little tedious (hold button for 3 seconds, etc), volume adjust also a little slow FM radio works but haven’t picked up many clear signals Instructions came in 'Engrish' Installation on Petzl Vertex Can be used with the clamp alone but found it moved around. The Velcro alone doesn’t offer much security but both at once works perfectly. Attach sticky back velcro pad to rear of the unit. Attach corresponding Velcro onto the helmet. I positioned it by sticking the two pieces of Velcro together on the back of the unit, testing placement, then removing the backing of the second Velcro pad, then placing it on the helmet, thus sticking to the rear of the helmet. Attach clamp provided and tighten up. Thread the mic/earpieces above the harness of the helmet. The mic attachment should go on the left side of the helmet, as in the photo (left as the helmet is worn on your head). In the picture the mic boom goes out to the front, which is on the right of the picture. If you have a vented helmet it will mean the left vent wont open any more. I found the Velcro didn’t hold the mic steadily so I attached it to the webbing with a small cable tie as shown, works well. The ‘short’ wired earpiece goes on the left side of the helmet, and the long wired earpiece goes to the right. Can be set up so the wire goes into the earmuff and sticks to the foam, however I found the wire annoying as I could feel it touching my ear, two colleagues haven’t had issues, but I drilled two small holes in the earmuff to make a tidier install. This is done by drill a hole, approx. 1.5-2mm at the edge of where the hygiene kit/seal meets the cup. Then remove the seal, and continue to drill until the wire will slot into the hole/s. Replace foam over earpeice. Obviously this compromises the earmuff somewhat but I've not noticed. Also applied some silicone around the hole. You could tie up the wires to the harness inside the helmet but they are a good length and I haven’t needed to.

That was brilliant.

Could be lightning damage, or other mechanical/animal damage in the trees earlier years. Inconsequential I would say.

Ive found Blue Tongue to be robust. My old single braid Arbormaster looked better after 3 years than my Cougar Orange looked after 3 months, I've been very disappointed how quickly it has frayed.

Run Husqvarna saws but slowly switching to all Stihl chains, prices are pretty competitive but I find the Stihl chains are superior in quality. And the files, although these are quite a bit more expensive at Stihl than the other shop.

Considered installing root barrier? I can't image that pruning the tree would have much of an impact on the root system (unless severe), but poor pruning could ruin the tree. I would be cautious about who you use to reduce the height of the tree if thats the path you decide to chose.

There is a property where I have worked which also has many Raywood Ash with a very high percengtage of included unions. We also see similar problems with Liquidambar, which most people attribute mainly to poor genetic stock throughout NZ. (virtually impossible to bring in plant matter these days)

I enjoy it here. Where ever you go it will probably be beautiful. The pople are generally very friendly. The climate does change alot..These are huge generalisations but might help: West coast is always wetter. North down to Rotorua(ish) is generally quite hot and muggy in summer (not so bad in coastal locations). Central North Island is a bit colder in winter. Bottom of the North is windy and a bit colder. Top of the South Island is a very nice climate. West coast of the South Island is very very wet. Central/Eastern South Island is cold in winter and dry. South of the South Island is cold iin winter and wet. Food is expensive, very expensive. Rent is affordable if you live away from Auckland. House prices are booming so the house you look at now could be worth 15-30% more in a year. Power are phones/internet and electronic goods are expensive but getting cheaper with increased competition. Lifestyle is fantastic, great place to raise kids. Hardest part of living here is in the middle of winter sitting on Facebook seeing all my old mates in the pub gardens enjoying the (not so) great British summer.

Hi Bob, I've sent you mine - traditionally we've called them Hazard Identification (and mitigation) forms, but have been told recently that we should moving to a 'Risk Assessment' - although I'm not sure there is much real world difference. Will be interested to see how yours works. I'd really like to switch to a tablet based 'drop down' menu styled form, to save some time, although the paper trail is one benefit of the hand written form. Takes me about 10-15 minutes to write, whilst old mate gets the tools ready.

Could be an old frost crack?

Not sure if ya taking the piddle, but step cut or silky?

I totally agree, I'm fortunate enough to be self employed and not impacted by a boss telling me to hurry up. Also being SE makes you more aware that if you do stuff up and cut your arm, you wont be getting paid for a while..

I think the possible UV degredation of the plastic is of more concern than how cool you look?

I feel your pain Timmy, it's a hard industry to start in.. Lots of expensive tools and equipment, can't really work on your own much either so end up with expensive subbys or having to employ casual workers.. ACC levys, repair bills.. Yuck. It's taken me 3 years to get to a reasonable pace of work, and even then winter will leave us with quiet weeks... My own personal advice would echo the comments above.. Networking with landscapers and mowing contractors has been a big help. Sorry I know this is totally off topic.

https://www.anbg.gov.au/cpbr/cd-keys/Euclid/sample/html/roughbark.htm

While its possible for trees from different genus to be hybrids (intergeneric hybrids are non common) this is not one. It's simply a species of Eucalypt which has thick mature bark. Intergeneric hybrids (such as eyland cypress, [× Cupressocyparis leylandii] hybrid between Monterey cypress and Nootka cypress) is a cross between plants in two different genera in the same family. They are closely related enough that pollination will produce a hybrid. Pines are coniferous and Eucalyptus are broadleaved and thus very different.

Timmy - I feel your pain. My 2001 Canter tipper was around 25k NZD. I subcontract with my tipper and chipper to a few guys who are in a similar situations as you, starting up without big cash behind them, I charge them a reasonable rate so that they can still make a profit. Might be worth doing some networking in case there are any guys who you can sub in (at least on the bigger jobs). I oringally looked at importing a Transit, but the agent couldn't give me a fixed price (was going to be between 23 and 28k). I'm glad I bought something a bit bigger as the 3.5T tippers are quite limiting, also we are able to drive larger vehicles with a cafr license here which is a big advantage. I have seen some chip trailer set-ups online, and it would be workable, but you'll need a decent tow vehicle, especially for a 3t trailer - so you're looking at 15kNZD for a 4WD ute. Then you need to find a trailerised 6inch chipper and dismount it and install onto the trailer? My 6 inch weighs 750kg, so I'd imagine without frame etc it would be 5-600kg which is a big chunk of payload. Tools etc add another 100kg probably. I wouldn't have thought you'd have much payload (legally) with high-sides and toolboxes etc on the trailer. I also remember looking at flat deck tipping trailers which ranged from 8-11k for a decent one. I know its not what you want to hear but I'd buy a cheap tipper and modifiy it to have some tool storage and high sides, and a road towable chipper. Actually when I was looking for a chipper and a truck I wanted to spend around $30k for both, I saw a ready set-up tipper and 12inch vermeer for $40k but thought it was too pricey for me. I ended up spending more but for an inferior set-up. I bought a flat deck tipper with tool lockers but no chip bin (and was quoted 6-9k for a chip bin). If you end up going for the trailer rig don't forget to post up a thread. Where are you based?

Here is two examples: First one using hessian and ropes to cradle the root ball, never lift by the stem. A similar idea but using a lifting frame which bolts together on top of the root ball and straps go around the roots - lifted via connections on frame: Second method requires more equipment but easier to lift larger specimens. Was taught to avoid the tree spade (would be fine for small trees like these) as they were developed for use in deeeeep soils where tree roots tend to grow down, most soil types are shallower and roots are more lateral. On clay soils the spade also 'polishes' the soil which can inhibit root penetration after transplantation. I have a word document which I produced for an assessment which has more detail/instruction, PM me if you need it.

Josh my Husqvarna dealer recommended running the bigger saws (or all saws) on 33:1. I have a 395, 576 and 540 not had any problems with seizing.

P.S a rifle cleaner can be used to unblock/clean them.

Thats an interesting point regarding the contamination. I use one and it's probably more common over here due to a huge lack of more modern equipment in the country . I don't have years and years of expereience using them but I have used them on a number of occasions during study and in the field. Good to remember that the idea is not to detect how much decay there is, but how much sound wall is remaining. The tool will likely get stuck if you continue trying to bore into soft wood, this is because the thread cannot wind itself out. It is imperative that the user stops when the resistance stops, this means decayed wood has been penetrated and the device should be extracted. Once the tip is damaged they are rubbish. I generally only use them for extra evidence if a tree is likely to be condemned anyway.

I have 45m of Marlow Aeris which I was given and use DRT. I noticed it frayed (more fluffed up) after very little use, but not in the way the rope is in the Zig zag thread above. It fluffed up lots more than the other ropes I was using, and made me feel uneasy as at the time I had been climbing less than a year. I decided to keep it as an access line but don't use it very often.

Get some real-world arb experience, volunteer yourself to a local crew/s for some work experience, or for a local organisation doing woodland managagement or whatever interests you. Don't be put off by many peoples approach to having females in arb, they are merely threatened by the thought of a woman who can show them up. It is hard work but women are very capable arborists they just have to approach the work slightly differently but there is nothing wrong with that.

The college I went to had several copies until they were all stolen!

My Husqvarna dealer recommended 33:1 for the larger saws (I use that on everything), however it might be due to the quality of our petrol in NZ.