Fredward
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Everything posted by Fredward
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Weird I was thinking the other day if anyone uses a wrench for rigging applications..
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Pay rates probably slightly better at the smaller firms, I've heard Asplundh and Treescape are reasonably good employers, especially if you want to stick around and get extra tickets etc. Also try Franklin Trees, they are in South Auckland and Hamilton, both domestic and land clearing.
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Probably a couple hours work in it if the chipper is close but realistically I think most people would put a half day on it? I do it for 200 quid plus VAT and leave the wood there, but probably the 1000 pound on flights and 24 hours travel time would put me off. :laugh1:
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Where are you planning to be based?
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I would guess that he is talking more like 25-40%?!! How about reducing as much as feasable as well as a thin/lift?
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Managing Trees with Decay & Dysfunction
Fredward replied to David Humphries's topic in Tree health care
Awesome, I'd love to get into this, thanks for posting -
Oak leaf is very cool
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This: HUSQVARNA 525LK Combi-Split shaft strimmer-hedgecutter Only 25cc but hasn't ever felt like it's down on power. My dealer said shafts are lifetime warranty, although they can be a bit fiddly to get the shaftsto fit together. Echo are also good, tend to be robust but heavier and less ergoonmic, I really didn't like the handle configuration of the Echo telescopic polesaw.
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I bought a Husqvarna 525 something.. Came with a strimmer, bought a pole saw attachment, hedge trimmer attachment, extension.. Runs them all well with loads of grunt, very smooth and ergonomic, easy to start, seems robust but still early days.
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Are you sure?
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Also, do you have any pics of your pulley saver? Is the biner so that the pinto is easily removable? If so thats what I've been looking for as I only have one pinto and want to use it for SRT tie in when needed.
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Awesome to see the different techniques used together, and great sounds
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Not used a 372 but I love my 576, it's a pre autotune one mind, not that I've heard anything bad about autotune? Its very very smooth, easy to hang onto for hours and bags of go. Not had any problems in 18 months, other than those caused by user error :blushing:
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That is very very cool!
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Need help as the had me puzzled
Fredward replied to Rich Rule's topic in Tree Identification pictures
Yes Prumnopitys has those pollen cones, I believe P. ferruginea have solitary male cones and P. taxifolia have several cones all on one 'spike' often borne profusely such as this, doesn't look like any Grand Fir I've seen. Did you look under the needles? -
Thats a clever idea to have it pivot that way, my chipper is the opposite.. I recently had my feed roller edges sharpened and it made me realise how important having a decent edge on them is...
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Those feed rollers look very aggressive! I bet it pulls it through well
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Need help as the had me puzzled
Fredward replied to Rich Rule's topic in Tree Identification pictures
Have a look here Prumnopitys ferruginea | New Zealand Plant Conservation Network and click show more photos, there is one of the bark of a young tree, and lots of good shots of the foliage, which may help you I.D or at least rule it out. -
Need help as the had me puzzled
Fredward replied to Rich Rule's topic in Tree Identification pictures
That was me, and I'm pretty sure it's a 'Miro' Rich, aka Prumnopitys ferruginea. If you can, have a look under the leaves for white stomatal bands, if it has some, it may be Prumnopitys taxifolia, or Cephalotaxus but I'm not familiar enough with those. Miro trees have no stomatal bands, although it will be lighter green below, they look ALOT like this when young/semi-mature, smooth grey bark turns into flaking plates with age, which is probably what you are seeing online in photos. That form is typical of an open grown tree, not coppiced. They grow straight and tall with a clear bole in a forest situation. -
The bar was $115 compared to around $190 (from memory) for an Oregon pro, I spoke to the dealer and they said that Sugi bars were factory direct and all the Oregon stuff comes from a wholesaler, the Husqvarna one was over $200..
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Just bought one for my new 395xp, taking it out to cut up some Oak tomorrow. These bars are really cheap over here, it was about 40% cheaper than an Oregon or Husqvarna equivalent?!
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I do know a guy who has a very nasty scar on his throat from hitting a wire fence whilst using a top handle on the ground, with two hands on the saw I belive. I have watched someone else get bad kickback from a top handle in a almost identical situation(even after I warned them), but the kickback was away from them so no issue. I would say that this could still occur in the right situation in a tree, but conditions on the ground make it more likely. I have worked breifly with a contractor who used a top handle one handed to sned branches on my chipper tray which made me feel very uneasy.
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I love this thread, wishing I was handy like you Aspen. I spent 2 hours trying to solder a wire on the chipper yesterday and all I accomplished was alot of melted solder on the floor and a burnt leg/hole in my tracky bottoms.
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Just been pricing up a 395 at the dealer, he is telling me that 404 works out cheaper becuase chains are fewer links and in the long run can pay off. Will be for occasional use in a small arb business. Just wondering if anyone has any opinions? A bigger cut must make more mess? He also said Husky only do 28/32 inch bars, I was gonna go for a 30inch bar; he said that the Husky bars are actually longer than the Stihls, so a 28inch might be closer to a 29inch, sounds weird or is this true?
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There are lots of cases of trees without chlorophyll in nature, but most don't survive as they can't photostynthesise, however there are some trees with root grafts onto neighbouring 'normal' trees, which can continue to grow becuase they are supported by their community.. Such as this albino Redwood! Of course you can't clone it becuase it will die
