Fredward

Looks to me like you did a good job. Kept the curved horizontal branches, which is where the accessable fruit will be, thinned out vertical non-fruiting growth, reduced unwanted height, well chosen reduction points, ticks all the boxes. Often you need to be more drastic with fruit trees than you normally would, as they get left untouched for years. Remember it's a tree grown for production not for aesthetics, although they have come out looking nice too. The only suggestion is on the 3rd (small one) I would probably have taken off the lower branches, as they might be a pain for the customer when mowing the lawns.

What about a large braked trailer as well as a 3.5T?

I switched over to a knut when I got the RW, I couldn't get a VT to work well. I prefer the knut as it seems more reliable, easier to tend, and you can use a much shorter cord and have less sit-back. I use Blue Tongue and currently on 8mm AP, which is the orange polyester version, I might try the regular 8mm AP next, or Beeline. Do you guys notice the hitch cord feeling 'flatter' than DRT when using the wrench?

Thats very impressive! Thanks for sharing

Cold baked beans, cold spaghetti, cold pasta.. I've even been known to smash a cold curry/naan the next morning. I'd have pizza/curry for brekkie over cereal any day...

Great video, did make me want to try one. "If you throw it one handed, even if you miss, you still look cool" I can't help but wonder what a conversation would be like with you and Karl Pilkington in a room!

I've only used arbormaster out of those ones. It is pretty bomb proof, long life expectancy, very stretchy and super heavy which would put me off buying it again. More keen on 11.7 or 11mm these days.

They have been popular over here since the 70's (or so I'm told), but the house layout's are more basic, being as most houses are single storey. You can get a kit to heat 3 rooms for about 500 quid. They are quite effective but they really need: - High flow rate pump - Quiet pump - Suspended in ceiling on wires i.e not fixed to rafters as too much vibration - WELL insulated ducting. I think the insulation, ducting size, and fn size are all key factors to making it work. If the air doesn't move fast enough it's cold by the time it gets there, especially in a cold attic. Also don't put the thermostat/intake too close to the fire as it will draw all the heat out before the room is hot. And the outlet vents want to be as far away from the door as possible, then leave doors slightly open to encourage circulation. We put in a wood burner last summer and after one winter sweating in the lounge we plan on putting one in this year.

Thanks guys, we used it and it performed really well, I just was doubting myself I had it tied correctly.

What about the Yale Bluetongue/Explore Kern? I thought it was all about them.

Haha I thought the chip bin on my truck was messy! Actually that is probably less mess to be honest.. Do you have to shovel that off?

Cool thanks for posting that, would be awesome to see some go pro footage of how you set-up and work the tree with two ropes.

Just out of interest, what do people think of Aeris? I was given 45m (new) and use it for a while DRT but the cover seemed to wear rapidly. I was also told not to use it for work positioning as it is labelled static, although it was stiff it seemed to me as though it was not 'static rope'. I now mainly use it for SRT access.

Lol @ the comments "You could tie into a cloud with that thing"

Love it

I was lucky enough to attend an SRT talk with Drew and Rich Hattier, they talked about knots for a base anchor and Rich suggested this knot, its a cow hitch with a running bowline, I just wanted to check I have it right and see if anyone else has used it, seems to stay tightened to the trunk better than a straight running bowline. Is this the correct way to tie it Drew? Alpine butterfly above, and splice with biner as a back-up.

Wouldn't want to be standing too close to the speedline on the ground when they come raining down! How low did you have to go before felling? Did you do any snatching or just speedline?

Dig it out is the most reliable method, you can get special bamboo herbicides over here called 'bamboo buster', its a cut and paste gel, but you need to do it as soon as you've cut it.

Facebook page, website (tick), signwriting, having clean and tidy vehicles. Turn up to do quotes 5 minutes early, you only get one shot at a first impression. Listen to what clients want and advise them as best you can. At lot of people want a personal touch, I've been told having your photo on your website can help, people who don't know you might feel uncomfortable having a random person from an unknown company turn up on thier doorstep. Have got some work from the missus knocking on doors in the local area but mostly frosty responses as people think you are religous. Fliers can work, and I know of a company (not local) picking up work near me dropping fliers and then following up with a phonecall (via telemarketer), but this can put off alot of people and dent your reputation. Alot of it is brand repition, having a good name/logo, people see your truck around and when they need an arborist they call you (hopefully). I also send emails to landscapers/small arb companys and sometimes get work either as a contract climber or I bring my truck and chipper. Kiwi's are 'do it yourselfers', which doesn't help, so some people are just never going to call an arborist when they have a brother in law with a chainsaw. If you are the only arborist in Nelson (I assume not!) then you are lucky, otherwise you need: - A point of difference (price, service, personal touch etc.) - A good reputation (takes years to build) - Know lots of people (can be valid way of getting going but people expect mates rates) If you can keep overheads low to start with (borrow money from savings or family for equipment) then you can afford to be quiet, you just wont earn much money for your own pocket. Do you work on your own? I don't do any climbing or felling on my own, only hedges/garden work really. I don't employ anyone but I'm lucky to have a great subby who is a climber too. Your website has some great content (mine is basic), did you have the logo/website professionally designed? This is my site which is quite different. Click Here I plan on adding more pages/content to improve my google ranking. Having said all this I've been a bit slow/rubbish at getting the business going, and I guess I'm paying the price.. I'm about 8-10 months in and workload is still much less what I would like.

Thats one stout Pine for sure! Right over a greenhouse, typical! When you say chog it down, do you mean rig it or whats the plan?

Heard loads of horror storys about peat, a train derailed over here, lost in the peat, tried to salvage it with a crane, then that disappeared! I've heard of them losing bulldozers and all sorts! All depends on the depth as to how far it will sink

Yus

There are other options using not much gear for lowerable base anchors without attaching a seperate rope via friction hitch or knot. Either a munter hitch on a biner or a figure 8, tied off with half hitches which can be released while under load. Obviously it's useless if your ground staff don't know how to use it! The more prepared for an emergency you are, the less likely it is that one will occur! But stories like this are a reminder we need to educate ourselves, other staff and prepare!

Sorry you'll have explain that again. Is this the first eye or second? You can't pull enough core out to get the fid and a half? 24 inch is pretty short. I think the shortest I made is 650mm. In my mind there is a limit to how short it can be, and very short spliced prussics end up often too stiff.

Yes thats what it sounds like. From what I read there was 2 issues, one being the friction hitch/wrench/tether set-up, and the second being the manner in which she was lowered.