Macpherson

Yeah, I can see that the deeper the cut you try to take the more the chance of flex taking place....tbh I'm usually fairly happy with the finish of the cut, I nearly always end up finishing a slab with a router sled once seasoned if it's too big for a planer, [ I'm not doing this commercially ] cheers.

Not that I've noticed, but I'll be milling in a couple of weeks so I'll see if I can detect the bowing you described. Although my my mill is 48" I'm only currently milling with a 660 and a 36" bar, but when I get an excuse I intend to get the 54" GB bar that'll let me make use of the full size of the jig. Need to find a bigger a saw first.....it's gonna be costly?

Sorry nowhere near my mill at the moment, I think your mill looks pretty much the same, a pal of mine has one and tbh I can't fault it. I'm simply inserting a rubber buffer between the saw and the bottom part of the clamp on the mill, hopefully without transferring too much vibes back to the saw.....I just never liked the amount of bar flex from the very first time I mounted it in the jig [ stihl es bar ] , cheers.

HI, I never liked the bar flex between the power head and the clamping point from the start of my milling adventure.....there was someone on here experienced a fatigue crack on a sugi bar probably due to this movement. To restrict this flex without risking too much vibration transfer to the power head, which would probably be detrimental and possibly destructive, I've glued about 1" of high density rubber strip to the mill where the spikes meet up with it ...a wee strip of oak on the spikes....and the the saw pushed against the buffer when clamping, still allows a little movement and seems to work. It works better with the spikes off, but usually I can't be bothered unless I'm looking for an extra couple of inches in the mill, cheers.

Hi, I'm pretty sure It's the same as my Macalister flipover which was from B&Q , about 10 years ago......may help if you need parts, cheers. https://www.google.co.uk/search?q=macallister+flip+over+saw&rlz=1C1GGRV_enGB751GB752&tbm=isch&source=iu&ictx=1&fir=AG_w9AC0RKu1hM%3A%2C-HKy9Pk9mv8oRM%2C_&usg=AI4_-kQ70ikt7Hzr5fok7jVTVai35PCR9g&sa=X&ved=2ahUKEwjFz8abzcXeAhXoIsAKHcAzC6EQ9QEwC3oECAQQBA#imgrc=lcyg44pPcovM6M:

Fantastic skill and beautiful tools, thanks

what about this https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/New-Pneumatic-48mm-Telescopic-Jockey-Wheel-and-Clamp-200mm-Wheel-Caravan-800lbs/232926423196?_trkparms=aid%3D555017%26algo%3DPL.CASSINI%26ao%3D1%26asc%3D55148%26meid%3D5bf90bdd0d3341cf8e4beb46b4ad33eb%26pid%3D100505%26rk%3D1%26rkt%3D1%26%26itm%3D232926423196&_trksid=p2045573.c100505.m3226

Yep, when you bought machine tools back years ago they often came with a coating that looked like varnish but in fact it was often a coat of one of the 'drying' oils.....I've used tung because I've got it ....stops things going rusty in the shed.....but so does an oily rag

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=wWGdVV1toug Made something like this a few years ago... a real handy jig to have when you need it, but a pita if you just want a quick result, cheers

yeah, direct action with a smile is often the best way. ?

Seems logical that the main thing that effects the cutting of any material is that the cutting edge is prepared in such a way as to optimise the cutting of the material being cut. A fact that's extremely important in the cutting of metal for instance, where tool speed, tool design, angle of cut, lubrication and sharpening vary enormously depending on the material being machined..... you can't really get away with getting it being wrong...... and although wood is much more forgiving, imo a chain sharpened to cut soggy spruce efficiently is not the same as the chain I'd want to cut dry seasoned hardwood like oak for instance. So although the variables when cutting wood as opposed to metal are more subtle, at the end of the day the principals of the design and speed of the cutting edge are the only thing that's important in the cutting of any material, cheers.

Hi, they last quite well...I'd say longer than a hand file but then I'm not a commercial user.......the main thing for me is that they retain their profile as opposed to a carborundum stone.....cheap enough to give them a try, cheers.

Thanks for the link, a handy tool, I,ve been using a similar set up for some years now but interestingly they're able to supply rotary files with the threaded shank which will probably fit the Granberg grinder, and at a very reasonable price. Also they do diamond sharpening tools for many different applications, cheers.

I can't see what all the fuss is about...ok so the grinder is a little bit agricultural compared to a Dremmel for instance and the jig is a bit like comparing a BSA as compared to a Honda ....a wee bit unrefined, if you get my drift. As the components are cast alloy they are most likely all the same so although slightly sloppy I don't think yours will be different to any other. Having said this, with the diamond burr to me it's the most accurate and quickest method I've found...... just done my 36" chain in 10 minutes...very exact and a supersharp razor finish, cheers

Yeah, there's a lot of folk warning of the dangers of the onset of 5G and of course being largely ignored, to me most people are willingly sleepwalking into the end of times...happily skipping along to an agenda of unknown origin and identity into the abyss of mind control.... depressing isn't it ?

Hi, I've noticed similar on a large beech that I walk past regularly, not got a clue what it is...but wondered if it was something that the tree was exuding that's getting washed down when it rains, perhaps sap as many of these trees have serious squirrel damage, cheers.

Hi, I milled some about that size recently and got some lovely boards... it's fairly durable and good for garden furniture etc, if you were to mill it you'd be better to wait until later in the year when it's cooler to avoid it drying too fast and reduce the risk of it splitting. cheers.

Unbelievable, I see this was put up yesterday, wonder how they got on today,......at least the guy noticed that they were just as dangerous as each other !! ? ,

Hi, I put up a link for cheap ones earlier in this thread but just look on ebay, I use an assortment of diamond files regularly for hand sharpening any blunt cutting tool, assuming that the original cutting face hasn't lost it's profile.. imo a touch with right grit of diamond can produce a much superior edge to the result from the average bench grinder... It's sort of interesting that a saw chain is the only cutting tool that I've used in my working life that can be sharpened with a cheapo file.....I know how sharp a Dormer drill stays if your only drilling wood ..Cheers

There's nothing wrong with the chinese files on ebay, 3 different grits for £9, nothing to lose really.....but I suppose you'd have to have different tools in your hand to compare the quality, the DMT diafold files are made in the US and may well be better....should be at the price !!

Excellent use of the pun...the diamond hand files are pretty damn good to keep in yer pocket, Cheers

Each to there own.. I agree that that motor is crude, a bit noisy and considerably slower than the dremmel, but the diamond bits are long lasting and retain there diameter, and certainly leave a very fine supersharp finish. I don't find the Granberg jig a faff... once you get used to it ..It's really quick and easy to use, I only use it for the chains that I mill with as it's important that all the teeth and gauges are the same and at the angle of your choice is accurate which you can't really achieve by eye, over time errors accumulate. You'd soon get sick of buying files to try and sharpen the Carlton milling chain which is a good bit harder than some regular chains. I've just noticed that the jig has doubled in price since I got mine !! As for the Dremmel, a small angle guide plate is available which helps you keep it in line ...if you need it, using it freehand is easy and quick. I've a 12 volt version which runs off the fag lighter socket or a power pack but I've no problem with sharpening with a file either, and these are also available in the diamond variety which puts an end to the frustration of having to find the sharpest of all your half blunt files. All the best. https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/3-pcs-5-5MM-7-32-THK-Diamond-chainsaw-sharpener-files-file-Grit-46-150-300/181356605602?hash=item2a39b230a2:g:AlIAAOxyjxlTKycR

I mentioned it for sure....I must be the guy wot did.... for accuracy the jig is bang on , really easy to use and you can get a long chain sharpened really quick with every tooth and guage set exactly the same just however you want them , the quality and design of the jig part is fine.... my only criticism of the Granberg device would be that the motor part is a bit slow and crude when compared to a dremmel although it works fine....but a rotary file is still a file and the diamond ones leave a super sharp edge and using one freehand is easy with a dremmel type tool. The diamond bits are a great price here, https://www.ebay.co.uk/str/glostertooling but only for dremmel type 1/8" collet fixing.... the Granberg bits screw in and the diamond bits cost more, cheers.

As an engineering fitter to trade I've no problem with a file but for me a fine diamond rotary file in a dremmel gets the sharpest result....and the same in the Granberg jig for milling or heavily damaged chains, cheers.

Howard Leight for me too.?