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Macpherson

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Everything posted by Macpherson

  1. Macpherson
    Me too for aux oiler when wood is very hard and dusty dry, ....is the bark on the log ? ..could the source of the sparks be dirt or are they from metal to metal.... it would have to be really hot. I quite often see occasional small sparks when cutting or milling in the half light at this time of year...but not from the interface of bar and chain....... Also +1 for running it in......perhaps the bar and chain as much as the saw. All the best.
  2. Macpherson
    Hi, fairly sure the 660 is 12 x 1 mm LH...if you download the service manual you should get it, or just measure with a vernier / mic and a rule for the pitch, cheers.
  3. Macpherson
    There was a self build featured on telly where Larch was used from the builders own wood, it was taken to a mill who sawed it and then graded it......the guy was sweating blood about whether it would make the grade....in the end it exceeded C50 ! In my experience Larch is massively tougher than any of the usual white softwood available from builders merchants and can be [ at least from the point of view of a builder ] self certified in a similar way to oak for example, ie, simply inspect for obvious defects.....whether this stands up to regulations, I don't know, cheers.
  4. Macpherson
    Hi, I looked into this several years ago when I started milling, apparently the pulse induction { beach type } is best for the purpose. I bought a C scope CS4pi which has so far identified and led to me avoiding metal on many occasions, it's hard to judge to what depth it sees to as when it finds metal you obviously don't cut at that point but from using it I recon it detects at least up to 12". Just last month it found metal in the butt of a large spruce up to a height of about 4 feet so I just cut it above and avoided the problem...I don't suppose I'll be lucky 100% of the time, but so far so good.....There's a second hand one on ebay at the moment....hope this helps.
  5. Macpherson
    They must have changed then, my squirrel has fire clay...it's about 10 years old. I'm still on the originals, although the two side ones have a crack they still do the job........I see on ebay I can get a full set of clay bricks for £37 or vermiculite replacements for £31.....it would seem that the clay ones are a better buy bearing in mind the difference in service life quoted buy others.
  6. Macpherson
    These Americans have obviously got unlimited cash, ... I made my sled for next to nothing... I use it on my deck ' which is the flattest area I've got ...it works great ! The cutter I use is 1 1/2" and is probably jist about as big as a normal router could cope with.... the router in the vid looks like it wasn't cheap ! probably cost as much as the saw....or more !! Don't see the point of doing any of this until the timber is seasoned as there's a good chance it'll move during the process no matter how well it's stacked and banded. cheers.
  7. Macpherson
    Hi, I use them all the time, they work well particularly as you can drill through the piece you want to fix and then bolt it on without first removing to insert rawlplug. The only down side that I've found is that there not high tensile [ at least the ones I've used ] so they don't like going in overly deep without the risk of sheering, the hole needs to be ideally blown clean before insertion, and over time they will probably sheer if you want to remove them, specially the smaller sizes, cheers. There's wire in them posts Here's another trick.......https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=CSCR3dwaDTo&t=283s
  8. Macpherson

    Impulse Hose

    Macpherson replied to Koba's topic in Chainsaws

    So your probably quite young then.... how could you possibly know anything.....?....I have to say that I totally agree with your last sentiment.
  9. Macpherson
    I burn a fair variety but a mix of holy and scots pine makes a very hot fire
  10. Macpherson
    Yeah, I can see that the deeper the cut you try to take the more the chance of flex taking place....tbh I'm usually fairly happy with the finish of the cut, I nearly always end up finishing a slab with a router sled once seasoned if it's too big for a planer, [ I'm not doing this commercially ] cheers.
  11. Macpherson
    Not that I've noticed, but I'll be milling in a couple of weeks so I'll see if I can detect the bowing you described. Although my my mill is 48" I'm only currently milling with a 660 and a 36" bar, but when I get an excuse I intend to get the 54" GB bar that'll let me make use of the full size of the jig. Need to find a bigger a saw first.....it's gonna be costly?
  12. Macpherson
    Sorry nowhere near my mill at the moment, I think your mill looks pretty much the same, a pal of mine has one and tbh I can't fault it. I'm simply inserting a rubber buffer between the saw and the bottom part of the clamp on the mill, hopefully without transferring too much vibes back to the saw.....I just never liked the amount of bar flex from the very first time I mounted it in the jig [ stihl es bar ] , cheers.
  13. Macpherson
    HI, I never liked the bar flex between the power head and the clamping point from the start of my milling adventure.....there was someone on here experienced a fatigue crack on a sugi bar probably due to this movement. To restrict this flex without risking too much vibration transfer to the power head, which would probably be detrimental and possibly destructive, I've glued about 1" of high density rubber strip to the mill where the spikes meet up with it ...a wee strip of oak on the spikes....and the the saw pushed against the buffer when clamping, still allows a little movement and seems to work. It works better with the spikes off, but usually I can't be bothered unless I'm looking for an extra couple of inches in the mill, cheers.
  14. Macpherson
    Hi, I'm pretty sure It's the same as my Macalister flipover which was from B&Q , about 10 years ago......may help if you need parts, cheers. https://www.google.co.uk/search?q=macallister+flip+over+saw&rlz=1C1GGRV_enGB751GB752&tbm=isch&source=iu&ictx=1&fir=AG_w9AC0RKu1hM%3A%2C-HKy9Pk9mv8oRM%2C_&usg=AI4_-kQ70ikt7Hzr5fok7jVTVai35PCR9g&sa=X&ved=2ahUKEwjFz8abzcXeAhXoIsAKHcAzC6EQ9QEwC3oECAQQBA#imgrc=lcyg44pPcovM6M:
  15. Macpherson
    Fantastic skill and beautiful tools, thanks
  16. Macpherson
    what about this https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/New-Pneumatic-48mm-Telescopic-Jockey-Wheel-and-Clamp-200mm-Wheel-Caravan-800lbs/232926423196?_trkparms=aid%3D555017%26algo%3DPL.CASSINI%26ao%3D1%26asc%3D55148%26meid%3D5bf90bdd0d3341cf8e4beb46b4ad33eb%26pid%3D100505%26rk%3D1%26rkt%3D1%26%26itm%3D232926423196&_trksid=p2045573.c100505.m3226
  17. Macpherson
    Yep, when you bought machine tools back years ago they often came with a coating that looked like varnish but in fact it was often a coat of one of the 'drying' oils.....I've used tung because I've got it ....stops things going rusty in the shed.....but so does an oily rag
  18. Macpherson
    https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=wWGdVV1toug Made something like this a few years ago... a real handy jig to have when you need it, but a pita if you just want a quick result, cheers
  19. Macpherson
    yeah, direct action with a smile is often the best way. ?
  20. Macpherson
    Seems logical that the main thing that effects the cutting of any material is that the cutting edge is prepared in such a way as to optimise the cutting of the material being cut. A fact that's extremely important in the cutting of metal for instance, where tool speed, tool design, angle of cut, lubrication and sharpening vary enormously depending on the material being machined..... you can't really get away with getting it being wrong...... and although wood is much more forgiving, imo a chain sharpened to cut soggy spruce efficiently is not the same as the chain I'd want to cut dry seasoned hardwood like oak for instance. So although the variables when cutting wood as opposed to metal are more subtle, at the end of the day the principals of the design and speed of the cutting edge are the only thing that's important in the cutting of any material, cheers.
  21. Macpherson
    Hi, they last quite well...I'd say longer than a hand file but then I'm not a commercial user.......the main thing for me is that they retain their profile as opposed to a carborundum stone.....cheap enough to give them a try, cheers.
  22. Macpherson
    Thanks for the link, a handy tool, I,ve been using a similar set up for some years now but interestingly they're able to supply rotary files with the threaded shank which will probably fit the Granberg grinder, and at a very reasonable price. Also they do diamond sharpening tools for many different applications, cheers.
  23. Macpherson
    I can't see what all the fuss is about...ok so the grinder is a little bit agricultural compared to a Dremmel for instance and the jig is a bit like comparing a BSA as compared to a Honda ....a wee bit unrefined, if you get my drift. As the components are cast alloy they are most likely all the same so although slightly sloppy I don't think yours will be different to any other. Having said this, with the diamond burr to me it's the most accurate and quickest method I've found...... just done my 36" chain in 10 minutes...very exact and a supersharp razor finish, cheers
  24. Macpherson
    Yeah, there's a lot of folk warning of the dangers of the onset of 5G and of course being largely ignored, to me most people are willingly sleepwalking into the end of times...happily skipping along to an agenda of unknown origin and identity into the abyss of mind control.... depressing isn't it ?
  25. Macpherson
    Hi, I've noticed similar on a large beech that I walk past regularly, not got a clue what it is...but wondered if it was something that the tree was exuding that's getting washed down when it rains, perhaps sap as many of these trees have serious squirrel damage, cheers.

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