Macpherson

And the rest....not that you'd need it https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/WET-AND-DRY-SANDPAPER-MIXED-Assorted-GRIT-2000-2500-3000-5000-7000-PACK-OF-5/263050894805?epid=8003922941&hash=item3d3f0e1dd5:g:qsEAAOSw1BlZS6xT

Hi, the one mentioned is made of chrome iron and should be better than the cast iron original, well worth a punt at 30 quid. But if you want to make one.. any small engineering fabricator would be able to bend a steel plate for you and then you'd only need to tack a couple of lugs onto it at the back... but I doubt you'd do that for £30, not to mention your time. cheers

Hi, I've had the 1410 for about 10 years with and had no trouble with the plate, burning mostly birch, ash and alder. Changed the glass once and I find that the rope on the door needs done about once a year. It's likely your problem may be overheating as a friend of mine with the same squirrel has a wife that augments logs with coke when he's working away and he's gone through a load of plates and melted a few grates. I seem to remember a warning on my original instructions not to burn superdry wood, broken up furniture and the like, ......I'd imagine a bit of 1/4" steel plate with a bend in it would do the job fine... from memory it just lies on top of the bricks ? Cheers

Yeah, had about 10 years of these bastards back in the Thatcher era when my start up borrowings suddenly started costing me 18.5% interest, ....a near impossible situation to extract yourself from as a sole trader as everything you earn vanishes,....at the time the guy with the clipboard was polite but he was always accompanied by a cant.... never borrowed a penny since so perhaps it was a hard lesson well learnt. Interestingly enough most of the tv programme was featuring folk who'd not paid a supplier or ripped someone off, that makes them fair game imo, .....it's not something I'd ever do, if you pay up front ..your never behind !!

Yeah, the wooded park local to me is littered with them, six or seven years ago in response to the clearing of many mature squirrel damaged trees, a group of people who call themselves 'friends of D------m park' planted a few thousand saplings just before a severe frost...... a complete waste of time and money as more than 90% died and all the tubes and stakes remain littering the place..... of course the wood's regenerating on it's own as you would expect... it's a pity they hadn't put their efforts into dealing with the knotweed / H balsam invasion.

Here's some more info, if it's got a serial number you can probably trace the year. https://history.stihl.com/1970-1979.aspx

Hi, here's a link to the original spec for the German one, yours is likely newer, I don't know when they started making them in Brazil, there's a few on ebay at the mo....cheers http://www.acresinternet.com/cscc.nsf/ed1d619968136da688256af40002b8f7/1b34cb7aefe58c2f88256ba200160833

I'd love an AC30, after see your post I had a look on ebay..... what a price there getting.....if only I could go back 40 years ! There's a pair of these speakers on at the moment....15 mins left..cheers.

I don't know much detailed history but when I looked at my two this afternoon although one of then would seem to correspond to the badge format that I described, ironically the other confounds this theory by having a silver badge which reads..... HUSQVARNA 266 SE 1982 017568 ELECTROLUX MOTOR AB SWEDEN least I'm sure of the year !! Cheers.

HI, I've got two 266's.....as I understand it , they were made from 81 to 94, a black badge for the 80's and a silver badge for the 90's, the 1st number denotes the year of the decade, the 2nd two are the week of that year and the rest indicate its number in that years production run.......so yours might be the 904th made in the 21st week of 1987........ but I stand to be corrected, cheers

I use this stuff, but ideally the lock needs to be oil free and dry first, perhaps wash with carb cleaner and blow dry first, keep in mind that some solvents , acetone for example, may melt plastic parts, good luck. https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/C-K-Graphite-Powder-Lock-Lubricant-Cylinder-Car-Padlock-K30050-50g/132445001122?epid=2169198796&hash=item1ed65655a2:m:mU82lVx6CAlOJcmJ5ASwT1w

Yeap, seems like very few people are aware of the dangers of the artificial sweetener Aspartame [ and it's many trade names ] , which was corruptly introduced to the food chain in 1981 aided by the despicable Donald Rumsfeld. There is a growing school of thought that the three known poisons that it' consists of are responsible for much more than just the obesity epidemic,... Well worth a google, specially if your a cokeheed of the diet type

So far seems like a big improvement for me as I often use BT openzone which previously had a lot of bother connecting to Arbtalk in particular, Cheers.

Yeah, the days of brushing in a dry mix are gone, once you've got it prepared to your satisfaction using a modern brush in grout is so much easier, longer lasting and leaves a much cleaner job, there's a lot of different brands to choose from, don't be put off by the cost [ as opposed to a mortar mix ] it's well worth it. Here's a link to one of the brands I've used, cheers.https://www.marshalls.co.uk/homeowners/view-weatherpoint-365-brush-in-patio-jointing

As you asked, here's a link to broaching a keyway in a tapered hole, something I used to do a lot of. I know this example is much bigger but this is how you would do it but on a smaller scale, the tapered piece of a knackered crank could have a slot milled in it to accept the broach and then be cut to length to forming guide bush, lining it up in the right position would be 'key' . Broaching alloy would only require a lightweight bench press which most mechanics will have access to, so a broach of the right width is all you'd need to buy. Perhaps somebody could make a bit of cash providing this service. It seems a common problem with other models having the same cheapo design, some huskys as well, I wonder if one tapered sleeve could be used to repair many different flywheels, I would imagine that all the Stihls would have the same taper at least, cheers.

This might help, not the same model but similar mechanism looks like there should be a pin, cheers

Yeah, thanks for that, looks like most of the stoves went for a bit less than 1/2 rrp.

Looks like the bidding closed today and all the auction items are now showing as sold, would be interesting to know what the stuff went for.

Never had any Corsican pine and probably never will so I hope it works for you. I just brush it on as I mostly only have small quantities of milled timber for personal use, the last load I treated was about 60 x 8" boards so I made a plastic lined wooden trough to contain the stuff and also stood the treated planks in it to let the excess run back in, so it ended up more like a sheep dip which worked really well and I used far less solution, it was only through reading on this forum that I discovered borax for wood preservation. I always wear waterproofs, gloves and a full face shield just to be on the safe side, I did consider spraying and I suppose in controlled conditions there would be no reason why you couldn't spray....I just didn't fancy the risk of aerosol particles getting in my eyes or being breathed by me or anyone else. Having said that on a recent job some dry rot specialists were happily spraying a borax based product about everywhere with next to no ppe....I got well out the way.... Here's a link to some tech and safety info, cheers. http://www.chemicalbook.com/ChemicalProductProperty_EN_CB6233954.htm

Hi, I mix my own and have been successful at preventing blue stain / mould on milled timber even though it can be particularly damp up here in the west highlands, at the moment I've got douglas, pine and larch boards which have been stacked stickered for more than a year and is showing no sign of staining even though they gets damp when rain blows in sideways I use this which dissolves into 5 gallons and is very cost effective. http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Borax-Sodium-Tetraborate-Decahydrate-99-9-Pure-Best-Grade-Available-1-Kilo-/112073697552?epid=600913216&hash=item1a181ce910:g:ONkAAOSwARZXmTcy I don't have too much worries about planing the milled timber but I always wear a mask anyway, although I did have someone reply to previous post warning of the risks associated with borax. but everything has risks if handled incorrectly, hope this helps, cheers.

Slight derail, but on the subject of alternative engine design I came across this a few years ago. Originally designed for model planes but developed for hand held applications. http://www.rcvengines.com/applications_forestandgarden_engines.html

Aye ye seem to be gettin by alright now

Yeah, really liking the new set up as I get used to it, I'm not great with all the in and outs of computers but I'm finding this straight forward and easy to navigate so far.

Hi, this may be what your looking for, unfortunately you got to pay for it to find out, someone else may be able to point you in the direction of a free version. https://www.tradebit.com/filedetail.php/274701984-stihl-ms-240-ms-260-service-repair

Hi, having re-investigated the uses of borax powder solution since reading the info provided earlier in this thread, and just to satisfy myself that I'm not being exposed to unnecessarily to any danger, I've not come up with any reason to stop using it. It would seem that the borax method of treating timber is considered to be the natural way as opposed to many of the brand name products in which the active ingredient is permethrin. Obviously you ultimately have to make up your own mind when deciding how to treat your woodworm problem. I've no scientific training so I'll correct myself in that the solution I use is 10 per cent not saturated, also it's borax crystal powder solution not boric acid {if that makes a difference}. I'm sure there are folk on here who have more experience of using this stuff than myself. https://www.greenshop.co.uk/documents/borax_timber.pdf There's a lot of reading out there on this subject, much of it tangled in controversy, but if it was me I'd inject it down the holes to get the woodworm, once successfully treated fill the holes with epoxy, re-sand and re-oil and I doubt if there would be any residual danger, good luck.... whatever you decide to do.