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  1. Yeah. I've had this happen a few times before with WRC that was cut for cladding by a local sawyer. It was cut in the summer and I just assumed it was due the wood drying too quickly resulting in the cell walls collapsing. I've heard that eucalyptus can do the same thing but not actually seen it. Would be interested to know the genuine reason as I use WRC from time to time but this would wreck the end product.
  2. Yeah, I just bought some of ebay for £8 for 1.5kg bag. Seller was ropfei97. But to be honest there were lots to choose from.
  3. Likewise! If you can message me when they're done I'd be interested in 1 or 2 (price depending!)
  4. Yeah, tell me about it! In the past I've been lucky and found suitable individual trees in mixed woods that I work or shoot in. The good thing is that once I find one I can get an awful lot of basket bases out of a couple of logs that size!
  5. Morning all. As title says I'm after a silver birch log or 2 for basket making. Ideally they need to be around 20-24 inch diameter (minimum of 18) and i can get away with lengths of 6 or 8 ft. Because they'll be cut to 8-10mm thick boards they need to be as straight and knot free as possible. I'm based mid-Wilts so really looking for something within reasonable distance.
  6. I know what you're saying, but when applicable, I quite often deliberately leave some sapwood on my outdoor furniture so that over time it does rot away naturally. I like the way it ages compared to an edge that stays the same as the day I created it. Depends what the customer wants. In this case it's why I got him to go for chestnut rather than the oak his brother-in-law suggested. The one his b-in-law made (being a furniture designer?) was air dried oak with the bark left on. Didn't like to say too much about what I thought would happen to this over a short period outdoors. The sapwood on the chestnut is minimal anyway, but by the time I've replicated the edge effect he's after there won't be much left on there. Any that is left and does rot over time will help soften the overall effect. In 3–4 years he should have a nicely weathered set that looks like the image he gave me as a guide. That's the plan at least!
  7. Apologies for the slow response to this. Grown up stuff (aka parenting/family duties) demanded my attention. I think you could be right there. My problem now is trying to replicate it on a single board without it looking like a poor copy. Reckon it'll be a combination of electric planer and powerfile. Glad I like a challenge. (Occasionally!)
  8. Brilliant, Stere! Just googled Plum Pocket and it does look remarkably like it. In all my years of walking the hedgerows I've never come across it before so thanks for that. Whether it's a Blackthorn, Damson or Bullace is almost immaterial now that I know it's a fungal infection.
  9. Hah! See, I hadn't thought of that as a possibility. It looks a bit too mechanical a cut to me for an adze though. Not really had any experience of using one, so would an adze give such a flat plane? Or would it be a bit more curved as the blade followed it's natural arch?
  10. Been asked by my better half to go to them that know (or think they do) to see if anybody can identify this tree? She saw it about a month ago in a hedgerow beside a canal.
  11. Afternoon all! I've been asked to make a rustic table and 2 benches and the client wants to have the edges treated like he saw on a bench outside a restaurant. If I get this right they should be seen in the pictures attached (hopefully!). The only thing is I can't figure out how they did it. My initial thoughts were they were made with a debarking tool (possibly on a chainsaw) like I think Logosol do. The other possibility is that they used an electric hand planer, but assuming the slab is only 2 inches thick the planer blade would only be about 2 inches wide. I thought most were 3 inches or widers. So, let's have your thoughts (on this topic before you all go freestyle!) on how it might have been done, cos I'm wearing a groove into the side of my head working it out!
  12. Yeah, getting somebody in may well be the way to go. It's such a stunning piece of wood that for now I'd rather pay to get it milled and keep all the timber though. I may well sell it on later, but for now I'd prefer to keep my options open. I considered buying a 48 inch alaskan to do it myself, but by the time I buy a lo-pro bar and chain for my 661 it's starting to all mount up. Especially as I probably wouldn't ever use the combo again. The other option would be to quarter it and then slab it on my logosol farmers mill. The down side is that there's couple of strands of very rusty barbed wire through the side of the lower section. (Considering the age of the tree and the state of the wire on the outside I'd say there's a pretty good chance the wire has practically rotted on the inside but ...) With careful aligning I think it might be possible to miss it but it would be a risk. Personally I'd be willing to risk it myself as it's such a unique stick. The entire tree including the roots (which I dug out) were a mass of burr. The head scratching continues...
  13. Most definitely! If it's been down for quite a while you'll probably find it's gone an oatmeal colour rather than the very pale colour if cut fresh and dried quickly. But for what it's worth in my opinion it's worth having a look. Wouldn't worry about the grub holes myself. Ti's all character!!! I've a substantial lump awaiting milling in the yard. But being almost 40 inch across it's too big for my saws so am still scratching my head over best way to go about it. However, I've already slabbed up most of the head wood – which brought a big smile to my face. If I've got this tech bit right, there should be attached a few pics of a small lump of it and a knife handle I've used it on. Should give you an idea of what it can look like. Be sure to post a few pics. Would be interested to see what it's like inside.


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