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Macpherson

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Everything posted by Macpherson

  1. Macpherson
    Thought that too, might just be dry.
  2. Macpherson
    yep, sorry, I see that now you`ve pointed it out, it seems that there was a few variations of the item from what I can see, I mistakenly thought the saw was earlier but the composite part seems available, cheers
  3. Macpherson
    Hi, try e-bay item 271753134308 , it doesn`t say 262 but I`m pretty sure it`s the same bit as my 266, original part number 501 68 68-01 although I think that number may have since changed, it`s from Ireland , only a few quid. They do look as if they`re just cut from a bit of alloy extrusion, cheers.
  4. Macpherson
    Yeah, Sandvik or Bacho for me too, and diamond files are great for touching up many tools that may normally be considered `throw away`, also diamond rotary burrs are really quite cheap now and get hardened things really sharp again easily. cheers
  5. Macpherson
    Personally Iv`e not had any fuel problems but after reading all the posts on here on the subject Iv`e used both the Briggs stuff and Ethanol Shield [ which js better value ] just to be on the safe side,for all it costs, they both claim to stabilise the fuel for a long time and the E S claims to condition the rubber and plastic parts ......who knows !! There`s no doubt that todays fuel ain`t what it used to be so for the sake of your equipment careful management would seem the best policy. cheers
  6. Macpherson
    There`s no way that my granberg precision grinder `ruins the chain`, on the contrary, it lets me easily take a technical approach to accurate sharpening, tuning tweaks and gets a very sharp result, but I think it`s still important to learn to use a file and the file guides are a help to a good result, not used the stihl easy sharp yet, but it looks good.
  7. Macpherson
    when I was young it was a treat to see one but now they`re everywhere and I`m sure that they and they`re cousins are a major factor in the decline of many other species, there`s much less at the bird table these days. I became very much more aware of the whole murderous process when I used to do roof work and watched fledglings trying to leave the nest from a birds eye point of view.
  8. Macpherson
    Hi spud, just to say that in no way was anything I said meant to be contradictory or as criticism, I`ve very much enjoyed following your threads since I came across this forum a few years ago, I find the subjects that come up for conversation by yourself and others particularly helpful and interesting and regard the forum as a whole to be an education in many subjects. Although I`ve used both the honing tools in question for many years my only experience with Nikasil has been whilst working on my own or friends equipment so it`s not for a living and I suppose the great thing is that discussions like this spur you on to investigate subjects more deeply, which of coarse with the internet has never been easier. cheers. and, aye, my silicone carbide mistake was realised after I pressed send but when it`s gone, it`s gone as they say:001_smile:
  9. Macpherson
    With hedge cutters, it`s my fingers that feel the most vulnerable... that`s not to say other bits aren`t at risk, but I have to say that I like to be able to cut in both directions which keeps me moving all round and is better for me old back, so I prefer double sided in most cases. cheers
  10. Macpherson
    hi , once you`ve got it the way you want it, tung oil is an option for sealing stone, cheers.
  11. Macpherson
    Hi again, although I totally agree with every that`s been said, [and that`s how I would do it ] but it`s worth saying for anyone else reading this, that after I posted on the subject I decided to do a bit of research and re-educate myself, so it seems that the bottom line is that, as said, due to the Nikasil finish being porous it`s an absolute NO using any from of carborundum type stone or hone on it as it may embed, diamond hone only, as for papers... aluminium oxide or silicon carbide are ok as they aren`t easily able to damage the Nikasil, cheers, I would give a link to you tube but I`m too inept,
  12. Macpherson
    Hi, looks great, I`ve got a similar sized flue through a wooden pitched roof and was fitted as per regs , 50 mm clearance all round. The twin wall as has been said doesn`t usually get overly hot so no worries, but it`s worth considering that when the flue caught fire, the single skin flue pipe off the fire glowed red hot and the outside of the twin wall got extremely hot, shimmering hot, and even although I was on hand to shut the stove down and cool the flue from the outside with a hose the edge of the sterling board in the roof inside the flashing had started to get scorched, all that said, enjoy your stove, cheers.
  13. Macpherson
    Yeah, there`s nothing wrong with Sitka if it`s slow grown arctic circle stuff, I had some recently which was very tight grained 1 - 2mm per year, nice to work with and probably worth spending time and money treating with creosote, cheers.
  14. Macpherson
    Yep , sorry, larch and pine I really like, it was the endless , sterile, overbearing, daylight robbing, unmanaged sitka plantations where nothing except the midge thrives that were on my mind at two in the morning after a couple of drams, but.... I didn`t think that I`d get away with it. and apologies for the derail, cheers
  15. Macpherson
    Hi, glad you got sorted with a manual, just to add, these saws are much discussed on arboristsite if that`s any help, cheers
  16. Macpherson
    hi, it first appeared in 1984, which may make it seem old to you.
  17. Macpherson
    Thanks, I really like your thread, it`s a wee photo insight into somewhere else, nice pics, cheers.
  18. Macpherson
    I think that if you want to find your own formula and method for treating timber that`s going to last in the ground that`s fine, but half the battle has to be using imported slow grown northern European spruce or whatever, as per scbk`s post on the first page, rather than any of the shite grown here, it`s about twice the weight stick for stick and imo good to work with compared to the FC weeds that pollute our hills that are good for FA but pulp...........oh yeah, and hillside erosion.
  19. Macpherson
    yep, reckon it is, good price too.
  20. Macpherson
    yeah Spud, any nikasil bore I`ve done has been with wet n dry / oil, I`ve never tried the honing tool in a blind engine cylinder although I do have a smaller version with two prongs, very good for reclaiming master cylinders, I take your point that a light touch is needed. cheers
  21. Macpherson
    Yep, agreed, and even on a cast iron cyl it`s real easy to take off too much so unless it`s just a quick glaze bust a mic is probably needed, cheers
  22. Macpherson
    Yeah, Iv`e deglazed using the flexi-hone for many years, fine on a 4 stroke, but putting it into a 2 stroke cylinder at enough speed to do anything will probably cause excessive wear on the tool and the cyl as it hits the edges of the ports, and to use the expanding 3 hone tool you really need to be able to pass it through the cyl to almost the centre of the stone in each direction in order to get an even honing result, not possible on a saw as you can`t take the head off. so it`s a fingers job, it`s only my opinion.
  23. Macpherson
    You need to shake them up as the solids settle, used both, no complaints, obviously no comparison to the real stuff but seems to last a few years before it needs another coat, £8 a gallon
  24. Macpherson
    Hi, i`ve used it for outside timber a fair amount, same stuff from toolstation, seems quite good, dries in and the stink goes away quite quick, I would think it`s better than smearing your work with dirty engine oil but not as good as the real thing as has been said. Prefer the light flavour myself, think it looks better, cheers
  25. Macpherson
    Hi, if you buy a gallon of good quality pure tung oil, which is, [or should be ] the main constituent of all the named products, you won`t go wrong, it`ll make up into at least double when thinned, it`s well worth having on the shelf and is a joy to work with. imo. cheers. Aye and try it with real turps rather than the usual shite

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