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Macpherson

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Everything posted by Macpherson

  1. Yeah, rain bouncing up from the ground can make a right mess of your beautiful work in no time, specially if it`s muddy, as soon as mud touches nice new wood it can leave horrible stains, cheers.
  2. Thanks Codlasher, I have a similar project, very useful info on the different timbers and as for the fixings, there`s nothing spoils the job worse as it silvers in than the black staining from iron nails. cheers
  3. Big combi ladder for me, if it`s windy you can loop a rope round it to hold it in place, or extend the stablising bar with a 3"x 2". I`m gettin old too !! cheers.
  4. Hi, google auto electrical supplies and type in "HT connector" it`s a bit clumsy but might do, cheers
  5. Hi, try googling Intra laboratories, they were mentioned by someone on here recently, they sell borax powder by the kilo, and have mixing instructions and concentration details for different applications, also quite cheap. cheers.
  6. Hi, when I got the granberg grinder I did notice that the stones were accurate and good quality compared to some others i`d used, it`s fine with the thread , the diamond ones are on ebay. cheers
  7. Yeah, sorry, can`t find it either.
  8. Yeah,a possible 14,000 -zero in less than 1/2 a second, I doubt if the brake band is the only part that that suffers.
  9. Hi, you should be able to download it as a pdf, cheers
  10. Personally I prefer the teeth to be at least hard enough to ruin an oregon file in no time, after all a saw chain is the only cutting tool I use that is soft enough to file, for example, I wouldn`t want a drill or a chisel that could be sharpened with a file. Imo I don`t think a dremmel type grinder is capable of overheating the cutters, whereas a bit of care is needed with the disc type. Cheers
  11. many older engines had a roller on the drive side and a ball on the other which held the crank in the correct position, however that`s irrelevant when it comes to the 560xp. It remains a mystery !!
  12. I take your point, in many failures there`s no way of telling what happened first but over my time i`ve replaced many bearings due to the state of the cage even when there was no apparent excessive play, not just plastic but bronze and steel also, particularly in a crankshaft situation the cage gets it where a ballrace has been used to control endfloat for instance. cheers
  13. Oh well , just a thought
  14. Hi adw, I take your point , and would agree with the probable reason for bearing choice, but I have also seen the various ways that they can fail, mainly in motorcycles though. Hi njm ,It would be interesting to know the condition of the cages in the failed bearings ie: worn out, melted, roasted brittle or what ? I wonder if the brake being flung on at speed could be responsible for the transfer of a shock load or kick through the crank delivering a "knock out blow" to the weakest link, the cage. cheers.
  15. I see your point, but it seems that a lot of these saws aren`t lasting long enough to get minor this or that`s to mask, and the observant operator is being tricked by the AT when the situation becomes critical, at these engine speeds in a lean burn engine, there is really no margin for error.........imo
  16. hi paul, if it`s any consolation, I had a similar hand injury-operation 30+ years ago, don`t worry you`ll get it back, just get it moving as soon as you can. Are you right handed, makes things tricky, cheers
  17. Let me shake your hand sir, I totally agree with you. No fuel no oil. When it`s spinning at max rec. speed of 233 times a second which is faster than ever, combined with a claimed " up to 20%" reduction in fuel usage even before the AT compensates for a prob like a dirty air filter is it any wonder that a dried out wee piece of plastic gets roasted. cheers
  18. merely curios.
  19. I don`t think that being able to understand the tools you`re using makes you a dinosaur. I Was in the company of a recently trained guy just last month, when I eventually couldn`t take any more of the brake being flung on at full revs and tried to advise him otherwise, I was told that`s how he was taught and to mind my own business, little **** !!! Anyway back to the thread, I can see how the method of assembly of these engines could easily leave a preloaded pressure on the bearings and it`s no surprise that the plastic is the first thing to suffer from the extra heat that could be generated by this. Sorry, in my previous post I didn`t know the bearings were specials, sounds like crap design. Is it autotune ? Cheers
  20. surely with warranty it won`t cost you anything then !! cheers
  21. Hi, a bit of a beer tin and an elastic band, cheers:sneaky2:
  22. Yep, I wondered about the warranty, I guess if the dealer repairs it you might get another 6 months !!! If the bearings have gone then the oil pump may be damaged as well.
  23. Hi, had this problem before in some bike engines, if they`re standard bearings just get the numbers off them and get steel caged replacements online. If given a choice, crank bearings are often designated with a C3 running clearance suffix after the number which is shown as three little circles on the bearing.........but I haven`t done this with a husky, but I don`t see why not......somebody else will know , cheers
  24. Yea, well done, it occurred to me early on while following your story that you may not have been in the right golf club or church or................. All the best.
  25. hi, if it`s any help, just priced a similar job today, got a deal with HSS hire for a day`s hire of a compact chipper to take through the house, £50+vat only takes up to 2" . I`m only doing a medium alder so I`ll chip the wee stuff into bags and carry the rest through the house, of coarse your job may be bigger. cheers

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