Macpherson
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Everything posted by Macpherson
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Hi adw, I take your point , and would agree with the probable reason for bearing choice, but I have also seen the various ways that they can fail, mainly in motorcycles though. Hi njm ,It would be interesting to know the condition of the cages in the failed bearings ie: worn out, melted, roasted brittle or what ? I wonder if the brake being flung on at speed could be responsible for the transfer of a shock load or kick through the crank delivering a "knock out blow" to the weakest link, the cage. cheers.
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I see your point, but it seems that a lot of these saws aren`t lasting long enough to get minor this or that`s to mask, and the observant operator is being tricked by the AT when the situation becomes critical, at these engine speeds in a lean burn engine, there is really no margin for error.........imo
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hi paul, if it`s any consolation, I had a similar hand injury-operation 30+ years ago, don`t worry you`ll get it back, just get it moving as soon as you can. Are you right handed, makes things tricky, cheers
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Let me shake your hand sir, I totally agree with you. No fuel no oil. When it`s spinning at max rec. speed of 233 times a second which is faster than ever, combined with a claimed " up to 20%" reduction in fuel usage even before the AT compensates for a prob like a dirty air filter is it any wonder that a dried out wee piece of plastic gets roasted. cheers
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merely curios.
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I don`t think that being able to understand the tools you`re using makes you a dinosaur. I Was in the company of a recently trained guy just last month, when I eventually couldn`t take any more of the brake being flung on at full revs and tried to advise him otherwise, I was told that`s how he was taught and to mind my own business, little **** !!! Anyway back to the thread, I can see how the method of assembly of these engines could easily leave a preloaded pressure on the bearings and it`s no surprise that the plastic is the first thing to suffer from the extra heat that could be generated by this. Sorry, in my previous post I didn`t know the bearings were specials, sounds like crap design. Is it autotune ? Cheers
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surely with warranty it won`t cost you anything then !! cheers
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Hi, a bit of a beer tin and an elastic band, cheers:sneaky2:
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Yep, I wondered about the warranty, I guess if the dealer repairs it you might get another 6 months !!! If the bearings have gone then the oil pump may be damaged as well.
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Hi, had this problem before in some bike engines, if they`re standard bearings just get the numbers off them and get steel caged replacements online. If given a choice, crank bearings are often designated with a C3 running clearance suffix after the number which is shown as three little circles on the bearing.........but I haven`t done this with a husky, but I don`t see why not......somebody else will know , cheers
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Yea, well done, it occurred to me early on while following your story that you may not have been in the right golf club or church or................. All the best.
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hi, if it`s any help, just priced a similar job today, got a deal with HSS hire for a day`s hire of a compact chipper to take through the house, £50+vat only takes up to 2" . I`m only doing a medium alder so I`ll chip the wee stuff into bags and carry the rest through the house, of coarse your job may be bigger. cheers
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Hi, led lenser rechargable H7r.2 for me.
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That would do the job!!
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Hi again, I have done it successfully the way that Spud suggests except I would also fix a piece of 1/2" plastic pipe onto a hoover with some tape and put it in the cylinder through the exhaust and get as much of the cuttings out that way before they have a chance to land. Alloy cuttings are one thing, the tang off the helicoil is another and is better removed from the top with long nose pliers rather than snapping it off with the insertion tool, you need to know where it`s gone!!! all the best.
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Hi, it`s not much work to strip it at which time you can check for other problems, I wouldn`t imagine that the stripped thread is a symptom of anything else, more than likely careless workmanship and although I have repaired many in situ, mostly 4 strokes it`s prob not worth the risk, imo, cheers:001_smile:
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Yep, that`s why I suggested LED`s as the lower the power drain, the lower the charging demands. Personally I sometimes work in a similar situation, I just use a gennie which I put a kingspan lined box over cause the noise bugs me, cheap n easy and I can run power tools. cheers
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Hi, I think that LED lamps off a good car battery being trickle charged by either a small 12v wind mill or a solar panel or both could be the way to go. I recently fitted some LED bulkhead type lamps in a similar shed, they were only 7 watts and really quite bright although the light is kind of `sterile`. There`s loads of different LED stuff available now and it draws so little power that it shouldn`t take much to keep the battery charged. Hope this helps, cheers
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hi, I got my mill about a year ago and am very pleased with the Granberg chain, as agg said you need a grinder or a diamond file to keep it sharp, I can recommend the Granberg precision grinder, very accurate and saves a lot of time, great tool. cheers
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Estimated amount of time spent reading Arbtalk.?
Macpherson replied to Darrin Turnbull's topic in The Lounge
Burnt my dinner again !!!! Oh well -
Hi, if you google it you can download it as a pdf, cheers
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Hi, would it not be simple to cut away the protruding bit of the slab, a diamond disc on a grinder should eat concrete, assuming you can get access, crosshatch it and chip it off with a chisel, give it a skim of render if it`s got to look good, that`s got to be the cheapest option. cheers
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Yep, it`s different every time, some amazing skies,specially dawn n dusk, which are far too close together at the mo!!
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classic, very nice, reminds me of my BSA A65 lightning. cheers
