Macpherson

Got one of these... very nice saw👍

My AP300 batteries overheat and fade quite rapidly if getting used constantly as in blocking up firewood or going through a big trunk and when that happens, they won't charge until they've cooled. They get to a point where the power drops off noticeably and On the other hand, if just doing a garden type job where sporadic use never lets the batteries get hot they definitely last much longer ' in terms of how much cutting for 1 charge '. There's no doubt that in any electronic system overheating robs efficiency exponentially, and although I find the battery saw very convenient.... I used my Husky 154 for my last job, what a joy👍😁

Impressive collection .. do they all run?

Thanks, that helps me too, cheers.

Lyme disease is named after the town of Old Lyme in Connecticut USA which has the highest incidence of Lyme disease recorded [ reputedly ] It's the nearest town to Plum Island off the NE coast of America which after WW2 many German biological weapons scientists were relocated to when the war ended [ allegedly ] much like Wernher von Braun and his band of rocket scientists who were given a free pass to the USA. Fairly easy to research for anyone who wants to look, although difficult to deep dive.... Just food for thought.

I've had many ticks over the years as have my dogs, I have a reasonably bad reaction to them, usually a very itchy lump about the size of 1/2 a golf ball which can take around a month to completely subside. Probably more than 10 years ago after a particularly bad reaction to a tick just above my c*ck I went to a busy multiple GP practice in the NW of Glasgow and asked for a Lyme test.... I was surprised to find out that they had never done this before and I knew far more about Lyme than the experienced GP did although this practice is less than 1/2 a mile from a wild park which deer inhabit. When I asked where they would send my blood to be tested The GP didn't know, although I had already done my own research and had found that German labs had the best results as the OP mentioned.. but mine sample was sent to somewhere in Ayrshire and came back negative.. I'm not surprised by any of this as the deeper I dig the more ignorance I discover. I spend most of my time in the NW Highlands where we are inundated with tourists from all around the world, and I've often wondered how many of them go home after a short holiday and a lot of masking of other insects by midgie bites to find that after a while they have an undiagnosed life changing illness where no one can join the dots.

Yep 14", but it's not a big cost to have both.

Yep, being 5 years ago I'd have to guess that the 1st post of part numbers was from researching the possibility online and the 2nd post in December is what I actually bought from my local Stihl dealer, I've just checked the bar and it's 1.3 mm [ 3005 000 4809 ]. If you have one of these saws and your running the shitty wee PM chain I'd guess that you'd be blown away by the difference from swapping out everything, I think from memory about £68. I started with Stihl full chiz 3/8" which I run on most of my saws, and I know you're thinking ' that'll hurt the battery' but it doesn't as it cuts much quicker and may actually do more work per charge. Also with the bigger chain the sprocket is of a larger diameter although with fewer teeth as the bigger chain won't go round such a small radius and the knock on effect of this is a higher chain speed, or gearing up. I know from the Stihl rep who was on here a bit back that the msa 220 has a slightly more powerful motor but that doesn't stop this mod to the msa 200 being a great improvement. Currently I'm using Panther full chiz 3/8" chain from Chainsawbars and I've gotta say that it's on par with Stihl performance wise but much cheaper and from memory about 1.5mm more tooth, so after a year of using I'll give Panther chain 5 stars👍

Jeez, 5 years on.. yep it totally transformed the saw into what you expect👍

While I take your point that it may be diluted as if left in a bucket it will thicken .. it's always going evaporate as that's how it dries, personally I use the stuff pictured and at £200 ish for 20 gallons it is the real stuff ... I recon it's the bollocks compered to everything else that I've found for sale for a long time.. The fact is that it's not super thin , but it's an ideal viscosity for dipping really dry wood and letting soak in, anything really that you want to preserve outside but don't need to touch. I don't use it on a hot day as I did that once 40 years ago, and I don't fancy spraying it one tiny bit.

Yup, as someone who receives a pension I totally agree with that.

While I agree that the other things you mentioned are very bad, the origin of seed oils was 'what to do with' the waste seeds in the cotton industry of the late 1800's to make money, the answer was to get us to eat the waste by making it into the cooking oil Crisco and at the same time demonising animal fats.. a couple of decades later the heart disease epidemic arrived, very easy to research, and there is so much easy to reach info out there on this subject. This 2 minute vid explains the same situation vis a vis Rapeseed or Canola, plus bearing in mind that nearly all the rapeseed grown globally has been genetically modded by arch-criminal Gates.

A quick calc would have it at 1.552 0z per litre which might make it a concentration of 3.72% per litre, which means if you want to treat milled lumber to prevent milled lumber from insect attack, bacterial or fungal infections it's fecking really cheap If you are a legit business with a reason for using it as in preserving milled lumber or dozens of other uses, this is where I bought my last batch.. although back then it was £47 per 25kg, hundreds of times cheaper than diy store watered down pish, imo. Borax Powder Cleaner 25kgs - Multi Functional Product WWW.RYEOIL.CO.UK Rye oil is proud to present, 25KG of pure lab grade Borax Powder (Sodium Tetraborate Decahydrate) for your multipurpose needs.

Borax, Sodium Borate Decahydrate a common salt is the answer, 1kg dissolved into 5 gallons of hot water or any other proportion of the same when painted on or dipped will protect milled lumber from fungal infection and kill boring insects, it's trying to be restricted but has 100's of industrial uses. Borax Powder 0.5 Kg / 500g Multipurpose Household Cleaner Slime Activator 99.99% Pure – Borax Direct WWW.BORAXDIRECT.CO.UK

I might have put this up before, but it's worth another shout for sure.

Yeah, it's really interesting to find out what our ancestors new about the nature of what's all around us before possibly millennia of accumulated knowledge was discarded by those who seek to benefit from patenting everything that would previously been free to all. Another good example of this is the Birch tree, which grows all around the northern hemisphere and has many uses from fire lighting to medicine,...but not tool handles. Without wanting to derail the thread I think some on here might be interested in this vid of Dartington food forest in Devon which may be struggling to survive in the coming years.

I have had this for a number of years although only for personal use since being retired, and as others have said you fill the bag in jig time and you don't want to suck up a stone for sure.. but I've found it to be a useful tool as I hate raking. I've a Beech hedge and when I trim it I like to mulch the leaves for the compost heap, to that end I blow the leaf litter to a pile with no stones and instead of the supplied bag I fit a length of 100mm ? flexible hose to the outflow pipe and stick that into a ton bag with it's lifting loops tied together, it works really well, but i understand the fragility of doing this in many commercial situations. I don't think that buying the blower with it's vac attachments costs much more than without, so I don't see the point of not having this option to hand on the occasions that it might save you physical labour, a quick search shows only a £30-40 difference..... I think I got mine online rather from a main dealer.... just my tuppence worth.👍

Recently bought a very little used 020T for £300, it's a wee cracker. I couldn't resist it even although I'm getting on a bit to be up a tree.. All I can say is " We don't need no stinkin tickets " .... when you've got a bus pass 😁 And with a powerful angle grinder like a dewalt, these 1mm cutting discs can be explosive and need much respect and PPE, I've had many disintegrate when getting caught, so for me safety glasses and a visor particularly in thin plate.

I found this book years ago ' British trees and their past and present uses ' one of it's traditional suggestions was Rowan for tool handles.. which I've done quite a few times now, just for mostly hand tools that tend to lie about the garden wherever I was working last... ferrules are easily bought online. British Native Trees - Their Past and Present Uses by -: Very Good Paperback (2006) | AwesomeBooks WWW.ABEBOOKS.CO.UK Free Shipping - ISBN: 9780954189952 - Paperback - - - 2006 - Condition: Very Good - British Native Trees - Their Past and Present Uses This book is in very good condition and will be...

Anyone got one of these ?😊

I could be wrong, but I recon they'll be fine, a quick search has a average saw running at 350F or 180C These would be an option with a smooth outer surface rather than ribbed, and you've only got to buy 2. TC Skeleton Oil Seal Ring Rotary Shaft Sealing FKM Double Lip Seals ID 11mm-19mm WWW.EBAY.CO.UK Type: TCSkeleton Oil Seal Rings. Due to factors such as lighting, angle, display ect, there may be slight differences between the photos and the actual product. Features:...

Hi, I concur with all that's already been said but I'd like to add that I've used a 012 as my firewood saw for 30ish years and in the last few of these years I've been nursing it quite a bit due to similar issues to you. I don't believe that there's much difference between the two saws except 4cc's and that your 011 may have contact breakers rather than electronic ignition. about 30 years ago when I bought mine S/H I kind of went through the whole saw apart from splitting the crank which at the time had a little up and down play in the crank as this type of roller bearing has and would have even if replaced..as I've found in other engines... a few thou, but not excessive. As already mentioned stripping the cases is a bit of a faff, but not terrible, although I'd probably want to replace the bearings of a 45 year old saw along with the seals... but on the other hand if it's done no work, you might get away with it. Which seal is it that you can't find? I'm potentially looking at the same job as you and there is the larger 21mm OD seal on ebay from China, I can only find the 19mm OD seal at 3.5mm wide rather than 4... I can't see why that wouldn't work .... Although******!!!?? If you have it wanting to start, which is like mine on cold days, as it is the winter... leave it somewhere warm for a couple of days which may soften hard old seals, take off the tiny air filter cover and squirt a teaspoon of mixture right on top of the reed, it'll be like it's flooded for a couple of pulls and then give you a few seconds of life... repeat several times and you may get life.. Bearing in mind that your carb may be well out of adjustment. so a starting point of 1 1/2 to 2 turns out on L & H may be a good starting point, Anyway , once you get it to run and get it tuned, if like mine. your problems may evaporate and you'll just need to repeat the process after next winter.. IMO these are great wee un-burstable saws that pull well above their weight because of the reed valve, their noisy they and sing as they rev right out.. old school .. just like me. good luck.

So quite a small area,... so what about a fake thatch made with hundreds of drinking straws that could be glued in situ with a tiny amount of spray contact adhesive as you go, and a quick rattle can paint job could make it look like the colour of a thatched roof.👍

Google skidding tongs UK and you'll find what you need.👍

You're right with the Jobu.. this is a decent explanation.