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Macpherson

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About Macpherson

  • Rank
    Senior Member

Personal Information

  • Location:
    Glasgow and Glen Shiel
  • Interests
    diy and stonework
  • Occupation
    mechanical repairs and restoration
  • Post code
    G131jb
  • City
    Glasgow

Recent Profile Visitors

1,005 profile views
  1. And a very low tide tomorrow......which is good for meπŸ‘......moon was real bright last night but cloudy tonight.
  2. When they turn it off...it'll be solid....The stone age re-imagined 😟
  3. Yeah, they also get rusty and seized. I generally don't have a whole lot of milled lumber but I've also used chain with turnbuckles using a flat sided log as a strongback on big stacks, just because I had them, and that was the best ... easy to adjust, cheers.
  4. I tried ratchet straps but now just use loops of rope tightened with a twisting stick so easily adjusted as the wood shrinks πŸ‘
  5. Macpherson

    Borax

    Borax, Sodium Tetraborate Decahydrate....Ebay Β£5 ish a kilo delivered.........Dissolve 1kg into 5 gallons of warm/ hot water and paint on to all your freshly milled lumber and fungi / insects should leave it alone, been using it for quite a while now and it definitely works.
  6. Hi, I suppose if you drilled that rivet your bolt will take the place of it so I would think it would be ok. I'd be inclined to have a stout piece of flat bar to act as a strongback and bridge across the bar and nose parts up to as near the chain as practical so that the load is spread,this could even be fixed in place from the top with small countersunk Allen screws ...maybe 10mm thick and 20mm wide... Either that or a specially made thick machined washer of as big a diameter as possible in the available space. I've planned something similar in the past but never got round to it, Cheers.
  7. Not tried that but heard about it, Last year I tried hessian sacks for carrots and tatties, hang them from the rafters in a cool shed to keep them from the mice. I'm no expert but it's so frustrating to grow stuff and loose it in storage.....I guess it depends where you live, the problem up here on the west coast is the damp. The best tip I've got if your growing for your family is to stagger planting of any crop so that it's ready at different times...but easier said than done if your busy, I don't need much but I've found raised beds the easiest way to manage what's growing, cheers.
  8. Go for it, just bought a pile of strings.....just in case.....
  9. Yeah, last year after about 10 seasons was the first for me to be self sufficient with [ plain ] veg, nothing fancy....still eating last years tatties and carrots and onions, it requires a lot of prep and regular discipline [ tinkering ] but well rewarding, the main lesson I've learnt is not to try and fight nature and grow what's easy for your conditions Storing the produce successfully through the winter to do you until the next crop is another kettle of fish...and shows just how much knowledge has been lost, now that the this house of cards is collapsing I'm glad for the little things I've picked up on from my older neighbours....not that I'm a spring chic πŸ‘
  10. Don't see a problem with drilling where you have on 3rd / 4th picture, ok so your loosing a few inches of capacity but with all Alaskan type jigs you have the same dilemma ....to clamp through the sprocket is no doubt possible but would probably require to be a bit more of an engineered solution than just a bolt, and as said the rivets aren't designed for that direction of stress and could be a weak point, but possibly not.....you'd have to try it to find out. I also sharpen in place but I get your point about just being able to swap chains.πŸ‘
  11. Yeah, that's my plan...I've got the 48" Alaskan. always had the idea to get a 54" gb bar to get the max out of it....I use the Granberg chain at the moment and it's never really struggled in the cut....but I guess at the end of the day it's all about tuning the chain to what your saw can cope with..depth and angle of cut and sharpness dictate the strain..... May be I'll be giving Chainsawbars a phone soon.....If I'm spared πŸ‘
  12. Cheers for the reply, mostly using an ms 650 so only 87 cc but in good nick, seems to cope fairly well. I'm thinking that the skip chain helps when you start to push the limits of available power, just looking at that 880 setup of yours makes my back sore 😁
  13. Macpherson

    hard chains

    Hi, I use diamond files all the time, both hand and rotary...I'm an engineering fitter to trade and I've done a shit load of filing in my life, I've said it before... but saw chain is the softest cutting tool I use.....The harder the better imo, It takes a better edge that lasts longer and is more resistant to wear, simples. So you can't sharpen it with a shitty file from your dealer... well, if I could sharpen any of my other cutting tools [ drills, router bits, saws, lathe tools, milling cutters, etc ] with a normal engineers metal file I'd consider them made of toffee and totally useless. In any cutting situation, assuming that the power source works, the only important thing is the sharpness and angle of the cutting edge....And as Stubby said some kind of lube helps to maintain this....but each to their own
  14. Hi, just curious as I've never used skip or hyperskip....Do you think there would be any advantage using it on a 36" or 48" setup and what angle are you sharpening to. Cheers

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