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Macpherson

Member
  • Content count

    303
  • Joined

  • Last visited

About Macpherson

  • Rank
    Senior Member

Personal Information

  • Location
    Glasgow and Glen Shiel
  • Interests
    diy and stonework
  • Occupation
    mechanical repairs and restoration
  • Post code
    G131jb
  • City
    Glasgow
  1. We're back!!!

    Aye ye seem to be gettin by alright now
  2. We're back!!!

    Yeah, really liking the new set up as I get used to it, I'm not great with all the in and outs of computers but I'm finding this straight forward and easy to navigate so far.
  3. Workshop manual for a Stihl MS260C

    Hi, this may be what your looking for, unfortunately you got to pay for it to find out, someone else may be able to point you in the direction of a free version. https://www.tradebit.com/filedetail.php/274701984-stihl-ms-240-ms-260-service-repair
  4. Woodworm

    Hi, having re-investigated the uses of borax powder solution since reading the info provided earlier in this thread, and just to satisfy myself that I'm not being exposed to unnecessarily to any danger, I've not come up with any reason to stop using it. It would seem that the borax method of treating timber is considered to be the natural way as opposed to many of the brand name products in which the active ingredient is permethrin. Obviously you ultimately have to make up your own mind when deciding how to treat your woodworm problem. I've no scientific training so I'll correct myself in that the solution I use is 10 per cent not saturated, also it's borax crystal powder solution not boric acid {if that makes a difference}. I'm sure there are folk on here who have more experience of using this stuff than myself. https://www.greenshop.co.uk/documents/borax_timber.pdf There's a lot of reading out there on this subject, much of it tangled in controversy, but if it was me I'd inject it down the holes to get the woodworm, once successfully treated fill the holes with epoxy, re-sand and re-oil and I doubt if there would be any residual danger, good luck.... whatever you decide to do.
  5. Woodworm

    Fair enough, I know It was used historically for many things, which of course doesn't mean that it's considered safe these days and appreciate your knowledge and experience on the subject. Perhaps I'll need to have another look into the subject regarding the safety aspects of handling borax crystal solution when treating timber, I'm generally careful with all chemicals and I avoid skin contact with this as much as possible. Regarding the treatment of milled products as I described... would you also consider this to be dodgy / unsafe?...... I haven't found anything else that works as well....thanks for the info
  6. Woodworm

    Yep, boric can be used, if you google it, in the past it had many different uses including sterilising and preserving surfaces and food amongst many other things, there's been much on here about it as regarding preventing blue stain / fungal stuff etc. on fresh milled timber, the Crystals are real cheap on fleabay, 1 kg makes into a 5 gallon saturated solution. Borax, Sodium Tetraborate Decahydrate, 99.9% Pure, Best Grade Available, 1 Kilo | eBay Of course this natural substance is not currently being recommended as being ' natural ' product it can't be patented, ......cheers.
  7. Steam bending wood....

    Amazing craftsmanship, thanks for that.
  8. Whitebeam covered in web

    Yeah, I,m no expert, I only looked into it a little out of curiosity after coming across a similar scene to the op some years ago. cheers for the info.
  9. Whitebeam covered in web

    Hi, I don,t think they'll kill the tree, certainly the trees I noticed this on all survived and haven't been re-infested since I noticed it several years ago, the web will disappear eventually. It's interesting that your trees are whitebeam as the article I left the link to says that the bird-cherry is they're specific food source, cheers.
  10. Whitebeam covered in web

    Yeah, saw it last on a small prunus in Mugdock country park just to the north of Glasgow which you may know, cheers. The most disliked moth? - Scottish Wildlife Trust
  11. ms650

    I've got an ms650 simply because it came up when I was looking for 660, the 6.7cc less doesn't bother me,as far as I remember at the time I bought it Stihl wanted a saw in the 85cc bracket in order to appease the US epa emissions legislation. I'm fairly sure it's the same bottom end and I think 660 top end would fit from what I've read { perhaps with some slight mods } but I don't know how the heavier piston would effect the balance of the crank / vibes , somebody will.......I've not had any problems with mine...cheers
  12. Best Chainsaw Sharpener

    Yep, I got a link to these from a thread on here not that long ago, previously I could only get the much shorter ones that Rob's talking about, having said that they don't go in the Granberg as that requires bits that thread in as opposed to being held by collets. The Granberg sharpener is a great tool and gets milling chains bang on and although I've used it freehand many times to quickly touch a normal chain, the dremel at 33,000 rpm is much faster and sits nicer in the hand. When I googled the Granberg just now I got 2 results for rpm 14,000 and 24,000, I don't have it with me at the moment but I'll need to put a tacho on it at some point just out a curiosity. Cheers.
  13. Bog Oak

    Hi, I've been looking into water jet cutting {for metal} but while looking online I noticed some stuff about folks cutting wood this way, perhaps if you could get it to a size that the machines would accept it may be worth a try, interestingly enough Nottingham seems to have several companies and the university involved in doing this type of work, ....just a thought.
  14. Best Chainsaw Sharpener

    Dremel 1453 Chainsaw Sharpening Attachment with 4 Grinding Stones, Guage & Guide | eBay There you go, the diamond rotary files are much better as they don't lose their diameter through use but you'll get a fair few sharpens with the stones, cheers.
  15. Best Chainsaw Sharpener

    Items in Gloster Tooling store on eBay ! I use these in a dremmel fitted with a sharpening angle guide, a 240v in the workshop asnd a 12v with a power pack for when I'm out and a Granberg also with diamond rotary files for the milling chains. A rotary FILE is still a file and these leave a superb finish and you'd need to be extremely heavy handed to cause any blueing of the teeth. The small burr that can form on the top edge of the tooth also happens when hand filing and traditionally would simply be knocked off with the wooden handle of the file once the tooth had been sharpened. Most of the firewood I cut {for myself} is clean, but I can totally imagine the frustration of trying to make a living cutting firewood with stuff that's been dragged out of a wood with the bark full of mud and stones, for that reason most of the wood I mill whether by bandsaw or chainsaw gets the bark removed first, not a nice job and I would imagine totally impractical for the OP. Cheers.

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