Macpherson

Hi Mark, this manual does cover your machine? If so, given that you've changed the blades it could be possible that if they're not taking as big a cut as the previous ones ie not sticking out of the cutter block as far as before [ maybe a different result as the other guy did it before ] and if you're confident you've got it right with the use of the setting bar I'd be thinking that the rear pressure bar may be needing adjusted to you're new knife settings to stop the wood from getting jammed. Super jealous by the way.. I'd love a machine like that, good luck👍

I thought it might be the brake that is mentioned ..the lever's in the right place on page 8 ... the manual may not be for the op's machine. From the limited experience that I have the setting up of 4 main components is critical and covered in pages 10,11 and 16 with the brake mentioned in 17, the cutter block which seems to have a setting tool, the in and out feed rollers, the chip breaker and the rear pressure bar, cheers. Why am I studying these old drawings at 1 in the morning🤪

You must mean that the new piston's hitting off the top of the cylinder just before tdc. not much to be done about that, it must be the wrong piston, compare it to the old one.

Feed roller set up maybe, that's what it is in my very small Metabo when the wood jams. I don't know what model you have but there are some manuals available in pdf form, just google Wadkin planer manual for a choice. You may already have this.. https://www.daltonswadkin.com/wp-content/uploads/2015/10/Wadkin-RK-24-inch-Planer-Thicknesser-Manual.pdf

Beat me to that😁 But to @Jack0 it's hard to tell from the pics if there is a throat plate in the stove, or if not as others have said all the heat is just vanishing straight up a 3 storey the flue which will have an impressive draw?

What a good article, ' sheep creep, cripple hole, creep hole, lunky, hogg hole, smoot or smout '... I just love this stuff. As someone who has done a fair amount of stone work in this life I can totally appreciate the value and span of knowledge that goes along with the history of this ancient craft. There is, { in my opinion } a fundamental connection and understanding that can be achieved when building with stone when each one you pick up is more than a billion years old. The Highlands is littered with unkept dilapidated dry stane dykes that nobody cares for any more, I have the remnants of a beautiful wall behind me on FC ground, it was quite extensive and previously marked the edge of an old croft but unfortunately almost all of it has been destroyed by repeated vandalism by the afore mentioned cnuts. So as I have the only remaining bit of this wall, just about 30 feet, behind my garden I decided to rescue and sort all the fallen stone into various piles with a view to restore and reinstate the bit of wall behind me with it's original material that was all still lying around, albeit buried under moss and heather . In this part of the world nearly all the field stones are round glacial boulders dropped off as the ice receded and therefore difficult to build with, but as I discovered when collecting the collapsed wall's stones, nearly all of them have been heated by fire and the doused with water to crack them in order to produce a ' face ' to build with and all the jammers and infill are sharp and shards of this process completely unlike quarried stone. The immensity of this task is mind boggling and leaves me in complete awe of the abilities of these long gone crofters, and when I'm re handling their building materials I feel privileged and I'm very aware that every single stone has been previously handled many times and placed with skill generations ago. If I ever get around to rebuilding it I'll post some pics. Cheers.

Well that makes sense, I've seen a few even up here usually next to a style which is much more recent than the wall, so you go over and the dog goes through.. but it makes much more sense if it was originally for sheep to get from one pasture to another👍

Your machines will be fine in mostly any weather.. but I wait for the right day to mow or strim👍

There was a thread years ago that dealt with this exact thing, I think the conclusion was to use a wood screw to pull off the limiters 👍

Totally in agreement with that👍

I thought this thread would be a good place to post this explanation of green fuel production, this video taken at the annual ICCC conference, a distinctly skewed and unreported platform for a mostly ancient, mouldy and defunct collection of retired independent folk of free thought who once worked with clever stuff before ' the science ' was a thing. I found this presentation on the subject of all Biofuels worth watching.. not to mention all the rest of the speakers👍

Isn't it just bonkers how the efficient running of all sorts of engines { or every engine } is being bastardised by the fake delusional cult of the imaginary climate emergency citing excess CO2 in the atmosphere as some kind of tipping point when at around 400 ppm it's currently at the lowest level ever recorded in the ice core data going back a very long way... { real science } or the inconvenient truth knows this. I mean ' fossil fuels ' are the devils work so let's make every engine as inefficient as possible... it just doesn't make sense.. like most everything else in this world full of arseholes. Apologies for the derail, hope you get your answer👍

That was my thought👍

Interestingly enough today I was looking into the minefield of buying a new battery for my Passat without needing a mortgage or upsetting the cars delicate electronic sensibilities. The battery I was offered by my local motor factors was a very wrong Yuasa EFG at £140 and as I looked into that the first advice was that these were susceptible to damage by vibration... curious, as I spent a whole other life repairing motorcycles and only ever fitted gel filled batteries on jet ski's and motocross bikes, so it would seem that things have become a bit more 'precious' recently The battery 'original I think' that's in the car is an AGM Varta and luckily I've managed to find one at a decent price, but I guess the lesson is that stuff moves on with you noticing, and a battery is no longer just a battery. Anyway if you suspect vibration to be the reason for your repeated battery failure try sitting it on an inch pad of high density foam, nearly all batteries that I've fitted have had an insulating tray. The main other reason for battery failure in my experience would be faulty voltage regulation of the charging system or some kind of short causing a drain even when everything is off which is quite easy to check.... the easiest thing to do to avoid a drainage is simply to disconnect the battery [ pull the fuse ] when not in use.. good luck👍

While I tip my hat to your experience and have only ever milled Syc a couple of times and I just followed the advice given on a previous thread on the subject from quite a few years ago and all went well.👍

Check out ' anti fog spray ' on ebay... It's been a while but there were various solutions for this problem with glasses / helmet visors back when I was using a bike.

Not just Argyll, it's a menace that creates a sterile environment in Scotland's FC Sitka environmental vandalism, thankfully the shyte around me was removed a few years ago and now we need to root out the self seeders that are trying to make a return in the ground that's been left to return to nature. As for Sycamore, I'd go with what others have said and add that 'sticker stain' is the reason standing upright for a while, but also just making sure that any milled lumber is free of dust before it's stacked is really important.. ok, a few stained / or spalted boards can be interesting, but I personally like clean seasoned stuff to work with that has no signs of rot or staining and with some species this can be frustrating to achieve due to the time it lies stacked for before you even get a chance to evaluate it. Having said all that I'm just an amateur that learns with every cut I make👍

Hi. they might both fit, the 1st one is what I'd think of as normal and the second looks like it might clip onto the bar, or maybe different depending on front or side adjustment, I've not seen one like that before but for a 97 saw I'd gamble on the first one... here's a better view. You could could phone L&S your serial number and ask. Inner Side Plate 0.5 mm for Stihl 032, MS360C - 1122 664 1000 | L&S Engineers WWW.LSENGINEERS.CO.UK Inner side plate 0.5 mm Genuine Stihl Part OEM Part No. 1122 664 1000 Suitable for the following Stihl Machines: 032, MS 360 C, MS 340, MS 362, MS 362 C, 026, MS 360, 024, 056, MS... Inner Side Plate for Stihl MS260, MS260C - 1122 664 1001 | L&S Engineers WWW.LSENGINEERS.CO.UK Inner side plate Genuine Stihl Part OEM Part No. 1122 664 1001 Suitable for the following Stihl Machines: MS 260, MS 260 C, 036 QS, 024, MS 360, 026, MS 240, MS 360 C, 028, 036

I'm not bothered they don't know my phone number🙄

Well I like it for the right job, it's a unique thing that lets you use a saw on small stuff that's too big for a normal hedge cutter... it's basically a chainsaw hedge cutter.. The biggest and only negative thing I can say about this attachment is that if you fit it to a big saw you're arms very quickly get tired flailing it about due to the weight. Anyway it's as cheap as chips and on the right job it's just the thingie 👍

I don't disagree any of the comments re tractor and flail, but this underrated simple chainsaw attachment is much better than anyone would expect when dealing with this sort of job if it's just in a garden where a hedge has got out of out of hand. Ideally from personal experience it works best with the longest bar on the smallest, lightest saw and when used properly it reduces the arisings to not much more than a mulch but easily rakeable and compact enough to be collected without handling the cuttings. If I remember correctly mine is 14" but if I were buying it again I'd go for the longest one at 20"... in my case I've mostly used it for controlling Goat Willow which is very fast growing and invasive, also Rhodies.. but it's a great tool to have at your disposal when you need to get through a thicket of overgrown shyte, so I just have a dedicated drilled bar with the 'clip and trim' fitted for my smallest lightest saw... it's an ideal tool for stuff that's just too big for a hedge cutter👍 If you don't have a tractor. You searched for clip+and+trim+ - Chainsawbars WWW.CHAINSAWBARS.CO.UK

I've found this stuff to be very good and it's oil based unlike most of the other options today, in fact all the Barrettine Premium range are my go to treatments these days for outside wood. It claims to be fade resistant but as I've always used one or other of their coloured wood preservers as a base coat I can't vouch for how much UV protection it provides in reality. Anyway free delivery over £60 and a very quick service👍 They also do just about every other brand available should something else be preferred. Barrettine Log Cabin Treatment | Oil Based Log Cabin Wood Treatment WWW.WOOD-FINISHES-DIRECT.COM Barrettine Log Cabin Treatment at Wood Finishes Direct. A high-quality treatment that offers excellent protection against water ingress for summer-houses, sheds and more.

All of your pics are great, thanks.

I take your point and agree with you for anyone who runs just a couple of saws, but there will be a lot of folk like myself who have many 2 and 4 stroke engines and using Alkylate for the whole fleet would not be financially viable just as draining down fuel systems after every use would be totally impractical. I need to go to a machine that's not been used in a while [ often a long while ] and know that it will run as it did when last put away... I'm talking about everything that has an IC engine, cement mixer / whacker / quadbike / outboard /. winch / motor bike that doesn't get much use, and on and on.. I'd say that after using fuel stabiliser for at least 10 years that it definitely works, at least the 2 that I've used, Ethanol shield and Briggs and Stratton Fuel fit both of which I'd have to say exceed the claims made on the bottle in respect of how long they keep the fuel usable. Diesel engines also need protected from their fuel if not used regularly as was discussed on another thread recently. What I think is frankly insane is that fuels now seem to be deliberately designed to harm engines, which was never the case before. And from the point of view of someone who's made a lot of money repairing these machines I could only imagine the immense cost of Ethanol damage on a global scale. Anyway I'll be pulling out my rotovator in a few weeks and I'm confident that it'll start with the fuel that's in it after being not used for a couple of years. Cheers.

Hi, Stihl HP super has fuel stabiliser as part of it.. but I add the recommended amount of ' Ethanol Shield ' as I have done for years just to be sure, I've never had any probs. In particular where I am many of the engines I work on are outboard motors rather than saws so moisture related Ethanol problems are more prevalent / severe / catastrophic, so I just never trust pump fuel regardless what is claimed by the supplier.